Top Fall 2011 Make-up Beauty Trends
Fall’s Beauty Forecast Calls for New Takes on the Classics
- By Kristen Vinakmens
- Photos by Anthea Simms
- August 01, 2011 / FLARE Magazine
01 COLOUR POPS
Bold colour surfaced in unexpected ways this season: not only on lips and lids but even on brows and hair. At Thakoon, Diane Kendal, consulting artist for NARS, created a brazen sunset-red and orange eye inspired by the collection’s rococo and Masai tribal themes. “I felt if we were going to do ‘colour,’ it would have to be focused on the eye, with one central colour and nothing else,” said Kendal. “Red was a natural choice, complementing the colour throughout the collection.” She applied a red lip pencil across the lid and layered pink, orange and red blush, blended out up to the temples. At Jil Sander, a precise teal cat eye was paired with a bold orange-red lip, while models at Balenciaga wore a swath of cobalt blue across their brows. Multicoloured streaks of teal, burgundy and tomato were interwoven into messy updos at Fendi, giving the hair a rock-chic edge.
02 BLUSH HOUR
Flushed cheeks were standouts in New York at shows such as Rag & Bone, Ralph Lauren and, of course, Marc Jacobs, which set the stage for the look to become a bona fide fall trend. For Jacobs, François Nars was inspired by 18th-century paintings in creating his brown-pink flush, applied low on the cheeks. “The girls have a decadent twist—they have this strong blush, but it’s placed down closer to the lips and the bottom of the jaw,” he said. “Marc wanted the girl to look like a mad woman, when women do too much makeup or too much blush.” At Prada, CoverGirl global creative design director Pat McGrath applied layers of warm pink cream blush to mimic a natural schoolgirl flush. She paired glowing skin with rosy cheeks at Versace by applying cream blush from apples to temples and adding highlighter on cheekbones.
03 METAL QUEENS
Hits of metallics, from silver and pewter to gold, lit up eyes, nails and hair this season. At Derek Lam, Tom Pecheux, creative makeup director for Estée Lauder, adorned a flawless face with a graphic silver eye inspired by the minimal lines of the designer’s clothes. Using platinum and charcoal grey shadows, “the eyes are shimmery, but done in a very sharp way,” said Pecheux. “I wanted to create a very minimal but feminine, luxurious and powerful face.” Peter Philips, creative director for makeup at Chanel, mixed three cream eyeshadows in black, iridescent white and khaki grey to create opulent gunmetal lids. “Karl [Lagerfeld] asked for metallic, shine and intensity for the eyes,” said Philips. Meanwhile, nails at Chanel glimmered in a silvery grey polish to complete the look. A hit of shiny gold wheat sheaf-shaped hair combs offset tousled manes at Rodarte to complement the prairie girl-inspired collection.
04 RED ALERT
Of all the lip colours on fall runways, red—in a multitude of shades—prevailed. The one constant: precision application. At Missoni, Lucia Pieroni crafted deep-red lips that channelled the bad-girl leading ladies from Pulp Fiction and True Romance. “They’re cool girls with a slightly masculine edge,” she said. Her trick? Lining lips with a beet-hued pencil and filling them in with berry lipstick. The succulent cherry pouts set off by flawless complexions at Diane von Furstenberg evoked all-American glamour. “Think Gloria Vanderbilt and Diana Vreeland,” said James Kaliardos, consulting artist for M.A.C. “She’s an independent American woman, well put-together with panache.” His tools of choice: cherry lipliner and classic red lipstick painstakingly applied with a lip brush.
05 BROW POWER
Lush, full brows made a statement on many runways—a sure sign it’s time to stop bleaching them. At Alexander Wang, Kendal, working for M.A.C, filled in brows in a straight line with brown shadow. “We’re not following the natural arch; we’re making them really full and straight,” he said. “It’s a little more boyish, which is much more an Alexander Wang girl.” At Jean Paul Gaultier, makeup artist Stéphane Marais painstakingly drew in individual brow hairs to create a dark set of arches. “It’s as though she’s stopped plucking her eyebrows,” said Marais. Revlon’s Gucci Westman conjured an exotic traveller at Oscar de la Renta and boldly filled in brows with brown pencil. “The look is about a Mongolian journey,” said Westman. “I darkened the brow and applied touches of pink-hued lipstick to the cheeks to give the illusion of a woman exploring the Siberian tundra.”
06 MAD ABOUT MOD
The swinging ’60s were top of mind for many makeup and hair artists. Think: Twiggy lashes, bouffant hair and sex-kitten cat eyes. At Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti, M.A.C artist Pieroni crafted a mod makeup look to complement the collection’s sorbet hues and short, boxy silhouettes. “It’s a little bit Goldie Hawn, with tons of mascara and lots of lashes,” said Pieroni, who paired the slightly messy fringe with a frosty pink lip. At Moschino, Estée Lauder artist Pecheux created a graphic black-winged eye that referenced the cat eye glasses worn on the runway. “It’s a combination of ’60s high-society Irving Penn and the winged shape of the eyeglasses. Some girls are actually wearing glasses, but all of them have them mimicked in the shape of the eye makeup.” Big hair was on the menu at Bottega Veneta, where Redken’s Palau backcombed hair, gathered it into a Hitchcock-worthy French pleat and set it with plenty of hairspray.
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