I had a pleasure to attend a M·A·C PRO Master Class facilitated by M·A·C Senior Artist: Keri Blair (United States) on October 12, 2012. This class was hosted on M·A·C PRO on Robson street in downtown Vancouver, B.C. (Canada). Keri has tremendous experience as a professional make-up artist with 16 years at M·A·C Cosmetics. Not only she has a pleasant personality, great presentation skills, but also highly skilled at what she does in detailed make-up artistry in fashion & beauty. It was a great class with tons of helpful information on getting yourself familiar with some M·A·C skincare, prep & prime, skin make-up products.
I tried my best to take as much notes as I can, offered at this Master Class. Keri’s energy level was awesome, and I really enjoyed her class with bountiful tips that I can share with you using basic M·A·C products, as well as M·A·C PRO products (available online, or in freestanding M·A·C PRO stores). Keri demonstrated two skin beauty looks on two different models with 2 sets of products.
In this beauty blog, you will find:
- Artist Bio – Keri Blair
- Class Description: “Creating Perfect Skin”
- M·A·C Production Recommendation by Keri Blair
- Step-by-Step Make-up Application (with M·A·C Product Knowledge Information)
- M·A·C Artist Up Close Video: “Full-Time, Overtime Gorgeous – ProLongwear” with Keri Blair
- Kevyn Aucoin: Making Faces “Shading and Highlighting” reference image
- M·A·C Artist Up Close Video: “Concealing for Darker Skin” with Vimi Joshi
This is a very informational beauty blog filled with tons of make-up tips & tricks, for those of you who are interested in learning more as a professional make-up… as I have mentioned in my previous blog post before, “creating a beautiful skin is really the key to a great make-up application!” Enjoy!
“Creating perfect skin is all about how lights read on skin, and a lot of it comes from prepping the skin.” – Terry Barber, Director of Makeup Artistry for M·A·C Cosmetics
Keri Blair, M·A·C PRO Senior Artist
Where are you from?
I grew up in rural area Maryland. I currently live in Brooklyn, NY, which makes me very happy because New York is such an interesting melting pot. Even the streets have a story to tell.
What is the first M·A·C product you fell in love with?
In 1993, I heard these women in a nail salon talk about a new makeup brand where the artists all wore black. The next day I headed over to the mall and bought XTC Lipstick. It was a blend of silver, purple and brown hues… perfection!
What looks are ou seeing on the streets where you live?
Living in New York where public transportation is paramount, I get a front row seat to see how women wear makeup. I see a lot of mascara like Zoom Lash, Technakohl Liner in Graphblack and natural lip shades like Twig. This look takes you from meetings to martinis.
On the Art of Makeup: To me, makeup is the best way to express yourself; It’s a fickle accessory that every woman is drawn to. It’s about not being afraid to take chances or to color outside the lines.
Creative Influence: AMMORE-RI-CA, I love pop culture and tactile references. Music, art, photography and makeup! Life experience can be your greatest inspiration.
Most Important Tool: Eyes, hands and heart. And some great M·A·C brushes don’t hurt either.
Favorite Feature: Eyes, lips, cheeks and skin
- Keri started with M·A·C in 1996
- Twitter: @mac_keri_b
- Artist Portfolio: http://makeupbykerib.com/
- Skin as Canvas – most important things that makes makeup looks amazing.
- It’s to discover the bones of your canvas; you want to touch & evaluate the skin through different lighting situation (medium) from every direction.
- Runway skin make-up needs to look good. It’s tricky because it needs to look good close-up, as well as from a distance.
- Open dialogue with the photographer about skin (how it finishes on image).
This class takes a detailed look at foundation, skin care and the techniques required for making skin look perfect in photography and personal appearances. M·A·C PRO Senior Artists review the tools and products used for correcting imperfections such as blemishes, discoloration, under-eye darkness and dry skin. This demonstration focuses on perfecting the skin and does not include color application.
Flexible M·A·C Skin Product Recommendation:
- Face & Body Foundation can be used with layers on top of layers to create a mannequin-looking skin.
- Mineralize Concealer is great to use as a foundation
- Select Cover-up Concealer is great to use as foundation as well; it’s great for HD (high definition), it sets by itself so you don’t really need power on top. Mix Select Cover-up Concealer with Fix+ makes a great foundation!
- Studio Sculpt Foundation helps to tone the skin quality and it’s lasting.
- Pro Sculpting Cream: “cream looks like skin, powder looks like make-up”; a cream-to-powder formula for sculpting and shaping key features. Silky-smooth, easy-to-blend and neutrally-shaded. Apply where extra dimension is needed, eyelids included. Provides moist, skin-soothing, natural-looking sheer-to-medium buildable coverage.
- Studio Fix Powder Plus Foundation has tons of Titanium Dioxide in it, so it will not be ideal for flash (strobe) light because it will make your face appear white-ish on images; but great for everyday use.
Makeup Application Steps & M·A·C Products Used
· MODEL #1 Fair Skintone (Caucasian)
Mineralize Charged Water Cleanser: dip Q-tip into this to use as a make-up remover eraser.
- A lightweight cleanser formulated with our ionized Super-Duo Charged Water technology. Removes all makeup (except waterproof and longwearing) with a wipe – no rinse-off required. Leaves skin nourished, soft, absolutely clean.
Fix+: Vitamin mist to hydrate the skin (cucumber + green tea + chamomile + glycerin; scent of Sugi). It’s a drink for skin. It helps to “bring skin back to life” after you use Studio Fix Powder Plus Foundation.
Touch & massage the skin with Studio Moisturizer Cream. Buff the skin with moisturizer.
“Use your hand to massage the skin to feel the bone structure on the skin. By doing this, it will help to connect you with the client, to get familiar with the skin texture and to understand his/her skin.” – Keri Blair
Lip Conditioner: hydrates the lips, and give it time to absorb over time
Fast Response Eye Cream: silicon-based eye cream (yeast extract + caffeine powder); soft focus optical diffuser to minimize fine lines; the caffeine powder in it helps to reduce puffiness of the eye if it’s not by hereditary.
Prep + Prime Skin Smoother: wax-like texture, rub it onto the skin with your fingers to smooth out the skin texture, and to fill in the lines.
- A velvety skin perfecting primer that instantly fills in fine lines and wrinkles. Contains powerful anti-oxidants, evens skintone and mattifies – while softening the skin. Convenient compact makes it perfect for on-the-go moments. (Use Visine to take out any redness on the skin).
- A light, oil-free emulsion that helps cloak visible pores while controlling oil and shine. Applies “wet” for a gentle micro-exfoliation: dries instantly to create an invisible, long-lasting natural matte finish. Ideal for the T-zone.
Face & Body Foundation: test the color on the neck/collar bone area to ensure face & neck color consistency.
- Rub the foundation in your hands to warm it up until it almost becomes a bit sticky, then apply on the face.
- Well hydrates the skin with glycerin ingredient.
- Do another layer after a few minutes for a bit more coverage.
Conceal the skin with Mineralize Concealer and #224 Tapered Blending Brush.
- Enriched with minerals and nourishing botanicals, this creamy, easy-to-blend Concealer covers and perfects while moisturizing the skin. Comfortable and longwearing. Provides medium coverage with a natural luminous finish.
Softpoint Sponge Applicator (saturated with tons of Fix+) to bounce & blend the side of the nose and under the eyes lightly.
- Ultra-soft, latex-free sponge gets to the point in a shape inspired by crayons. The short, fat handle allows for an easy grip, while the tapered tip is designed for precise application and blending of creams, liquid foundations and makeup products.
Studio Careblend/Pressed Powder has moisturizing property in it, great to use for acne skin.
- Formulated to provide a smooth, virtually invisible, fresh-looking finish, this soft, cream-like powder is carefully blended to provide the skin with extra care, nourishment and comfort.
Prep + Prime Highlighter in “Bright Forecast” (mid-tone peachy coral) to blend with #224 Tapered Blending Brush. Do the “V” shape under the eye for a brightening effect. Area for highlight: center of the face, forehead, Cupid’s bow, center of the eyelid, brow bone (great for HDTV), on the chin (to elongate the chin for a more proportional face appearance).
- A pen-style highlighter that efficiently brings a soft sheer wash of color to the skin. With its precision application, adds radiance just where you want it. Goes on smoothly for cushion-soft wear. Use over makeup for highlights, touch-ups or under makeup to brighten and prime.
Pro Sculpting Cream: mix “Copper Beach” & “Pure Sculpture” together. Use a #184 Duo Fiber Fan Brush, just pick up a bit to contour the cheekbone (from the hairline by the ear angled down to the width of 2 fingers by the side of your nose). Other areas for contouring: jaw line, temples, nose, crease…etc.)
Cream Color Base “Pearl” to highlight the center of the eyelid, inner eye, Cupid’s bow, above the cheeks in the “C” area up to above the brows (by using Softpoint Sponge Applicator to roll it to make the highlight color looks as if its coming from within the skin.
- Versatile and multi-purpose, Cream Color Base can be applied directly to bare skin, or layered over foundation, moisturizer, or powder. Apply with a brush, sponge, or fingers. Color effects range from a light veil to highly dramatic, depending on method of application.
- A silky, colorless finishing powder suitable for all skin tones. Reduces shine while optically minimizing the look of lines & imperfections. Wear over makeup or on its own. Now in a pressed compact for ease & portability.
- A luxurious domed face powder with minerals, slowly baked to provide a dimensional yet natural-matte finish. Provides perfect low coverage. Use to set and fix foundation or as a touch-up throughout the day.
Cream Color Base “Rich Coral” as blush with fingertip.
Haute & Naughty Too Black Lash to apply as mascara with #205 mascara brush – it really gets into the lash line.
- Our two-in-one mascara in an intense carbon black. Creamy, velvety, lightweight formula sweeps up lashes and coats from root-to-tip. The dual-wiper system customizes your lash style: naturally defined or powerfully dramatic.
M·A·C Artist Up Close: “Full-Time, Overtime Gorgeous – ProLongwear” with Keri Blair
Makeup Application Steps & M·A·C Products Used
· MODEL #2 Ethnic Skintone (Middle East/East Indian)
- Mega Mix Powder (makeup tips from Vimi Joshi, M·A·C Senior Artist in Dubai):
Lightful Softening Lotion (skin brightening toner) on a cotton pad to massage on the face. This helps to tighten the skin a bit, refine the skin texture with its Marine-Bright complex.
Fix+ lots to give water and moisture on the skin!
Prep & Prime Moisture Infusion, gel formula, helps to boost moisture level of the moisturizer (draw, hold, and lock the moisturizer). It reflects light, so it looks more like skin.
- Keri likes to mix this product with Matchmaster SPF15 Foundation for a more creamy texture and hydrating look on the skin.
- A lightweight serum that saturates the skin with a concentrated boost of hydration, making it a unique hybrid between skincare and priming. Gently soothes, revives and replenishes the skin while preparing it for foundation.
Studio Moisture Cream to massage onto the skin, it makes the skin feel super comfortable and cushiony!
- A super-rich creamy moisturizer boosted with skin-nourishing extracts including passion fruit, spinach leaf, green tea, algae, wheat germ and coconut. Moistens, feeds, firms and protects the skin. Promotes a healthy radiance. Diminishes the appearance of fine lines. Good for day and night.
Lip Conditioner to moisturize the lips.
M·A·C Full Coverage Foundation (Jojoba oil based make-up) to mix 3 categories of shades onto a metal palette to prepare for: highlight, shading, and natural skin colors on the face.
- Mix shades of NC35 + NC45 with drops of Prep+Prime Essential Oils to create this thick/pancake-like makeup into a soufflé for natural skin color.
- Mix NW50 with drops of Prep+Prime Essential Oils to contour the skin
- Mix shades of NW25 + NC20 with drops of Prep+Prime Essential Oils to highlight the skin
- Full Coverage Foundation: a smooth-to-apply, easy-to-blend, emollient-based foundation formulated to provide opaque coverage. Full Coverage Foundation was developed for the professional makeup artist who wanted an emollient-based foundation with opaque coverage. Water-resistant and long-wearing, it can cover most scars, blemishes and birthmarks. This easy-to-blend cream cake formulation is available in a wide range of colors. Coverage can range from sheer to opaque. Achieve sheer coverage by applying a small amount of the foundation using a moist sponge. For opaque coverage apply the foundation using a dry sponge and a stippling motion. Compatible with latex and other synthetics used in special effects makeup, it can be used on the face and body. Great for beauty photography.
- Prep+Prime Essential Oils (Grapefruit + Chamomile): Naturally derived from essences of grapefruit and chamomile in a base of four richly conditioning botanical oils. Provides the skin with a healing balance of plant-derived elements that purify, regenerate, soothe, and calm. Apply to the skin after cleansing and before your skincare regimen. May also be blended with other M∙A∙C formulas.
Create dots of the mixed shades of Full Coverage Foundation on the face with #252 Large Shader Brush on the designed placement (see below for reference image of make-up artist Kevyn Aucoin’s book Making Faces “Shading and Highlighting” technique).
- Highlight: on the forehead, “C” area in the ouuter eyes, centre of the eye lid, brow bone, chin
- Contour: cheekbone, side of the nose, hairline, inner eye/nose, a bit under the eye for a natural contouring effect
- Everywhere else with her natural skin color
“Dark colors shade and make areas recede, for instant the hollows of the cheek, temples, under the chin, sides of the nose. Light colors highlight and make this come forward – the apples of the cheek, under the eye, the browbone and middle of the chin.” – Kevyn Aucoin
Pro Performance Sponge saturated with lots of Fix+ spray to roll and blend the dotted Full Coverage Foundation on the skin. Roll and blend in the bouncing motion to achieve great natural effect!
M·A·C PRO Studio Finish Skin Corrector to color correct the skin pigmentation area. Keri mixed “Orange” + “Terra Cotta” together, applied it with #252 Large Shader Brush: around the lip area, under the eyes to take out the grayness on the skin.
- A specially tinted formula offering the traditional full coverage and protection of Studio Finish SPF 35 while providing long-lasting pro-quality concealing and color-adjusting properties. Goes on smoothly, dries to a natural matte. Use alone or blend with other foundations. Highly pigmented and richly emollient: even a dab provides enough coverage to effectively conceal dark circles, blemishes, moles, tattoos and any skin discoloration. Available in eight skin-correcting shades.
Studio Careblend/Pressed Powder with #129 Powder/Blush Brush to set the color correction spots
“Mega Mix” powder to buff into the skin with #109 Small Contour Brush
Extra Dimension Skinfinish “Whisper of Gilt” (limited edition) with #130 Short Duo Fibre Brush to highlight in selected area
M·A·C PRO Sculpting Powder to intensify the contour by mixing “Warm Light” + “Soft Focus” to buff onto the cheek. Keri used “Infinity” with #224 Tapered Blending Brush to intensify the contoured effect of the bottom eye.
M·A·C PRO Paintstick “Black” in the crease and bottom of the eye with #266 Small Angled Brush, then blend with #224 Tapered Blending Brush to create that “sepia” color tone for contoured effect. There is also a Cream Color Base in “Mid-tone Sepia” color in the PRO line as well.
M·A·C Artist Up Close: Concealing for Darker Skin with Vimi Joshi
Blend your favourite M·A·C foundation with the perfect touch. Try M·A·C’s tips to tweak the formulas for a dimensional look that is perfectly you:
Master this texture technique: Deposit a dime-sized amount of Matchmaster SPF 15 Foundation and two to three beads of Prep+Prime Essential Oils onto a palette or the back of your hand. Whip it up with the #130 Short Duo Fibre Brush and stipple onto the tops of cheekbones for a radiant glow.
Pump it up! Dispense three pumps of Pro Longwear Foundation and one of Strobe Liquid to the back of your hand or palette and mix with the #190 Foundation Brush. The soft-focus iridescence of Strobe Liquid adds a glint of glamour to the look of foundation on the skin.
Known for mixing well, Face and Body Foundation is fully customizable. Enhance your complexion with four Prep + Prime tints: Illuminate adds radiance to sallow skin; Neutralize calms redness; Adjust brightens dullness; and Recharge boosts flat colour.
Supermodel shine is just a step away. After applying Studio Sculpt SPF 15 Foundation, bronze your cheekbones and temples with the softly shaded colour of Lustre Drops. The #188 Small Duo Fibre Face Brush brings out a perfect highlight.
- Mineralize Foundation/Loose + Iridescent Powder/Loose
Prefer powdered perfection? Build your base with Mineralize Foundation/Loose and layer a soft veil of Iridescent Powder/Loose with the #129 Powder/Blush Brush. A little goes a long way with this classic kit staple.
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