M·A·C 2012 Autumn/Winter Makeup Trend Report

26 Oct

M·A·C 2012 秋冬彩妝趨勢解析


M·A·C 2012 Autumn/Winter Makeup Trend



M·A·C Cosmetics, the professional makeup company and makeup artist brand, expresses its support of the fashion world by supporting makeup artists at over 100 shows during this year’s international Autumn/Winter Collections. Known for quality products and the expertise of the M·A·C PRO TEAM, M·A·C continues to be at the forefront of trends by working in the trenches with designers, creators and grassroots organizations.



THE WOMAN AND THE WORLD…Frills, fripperies, flirtatious fun have taken a step back this season, as beauty has pulled into line with fashion in its key proposal: the question of how a modern, intelligent, pulled together woman wants to look as she operates in the world today.

It’s pragmatic. It’s considered. And certainly aware that a real interest lies where world cultures come together. Hence a culturally diverse and dynamic mood underpins AW2012, with the craft and art of beauty being explored and celebrated in myriad takes on global makeup gestures. It’s not so much a culture clash as a cultural collaboration, about interpreting familiar beauty accents through international eyes. Less important than the specific origins of these looks (from ancient Japan to the Italian Renaissance, British beauties to Slavic maidens…) is the idea of a new vocabulary of beauty reference points that are truly global in their vision.

Equally important as a world view is a sense of structure. Whether that’s done by creating a compelling bone structureor by anchoring the face with an extremely tailored feature – a red lip, a graphic black eye, or a more masterful brow (the definitive feature of AW2012), these looks project a cleansed approach to glamour that is at once timeless yet uncompromisingly modern by virtue of the execution exhibiting an attitude of knowing, womanly strength.

Yet nothing about this beauty is unattainably hard or severe. This season’s femininity references a certain sense of the masculine (those straight brows and that sculpted bone structure), but we’ve moved on from the (now old) idea of the “androgynous”. Sure, the international woman of AW2012 is no champion of overt sexiness, but don’t equate her lack of purposeful provocation with looking boyish. AW2012 is very much about a woman, but one wise and masterful enough with her style to play with a more controlled contemporaneity.

Indeed, the passé pastiche of jet set, “expensive” style seems vulgar compared to something more authentic and real. “Luxury is not the same as ostentation,” confirms Lyne Desnoyers. “The opulence this season is in the details, which is, of course, the pure definition of chic.”… A WORLDLY WOMAN INDEED.



與世界觀同等重要的是結構感。無論是透過打造一個具衝突感的骨架結構或精雕細琢的五官  紅唇、生動的黑色眼妝或更具優越感的眉毛來達成,這些妝容都投射出一種展現魅力的乾淨手法,由於這樣的魅力確切展現出一種知性與女性深度的態度,因此一瞬間成為永恆,卻又堅決摩登到底。


Sense + Sensibility

The question of quintessential beauty – what manner of makeup provides a prototype for a modern woman – is posed this season, with myriad looks taking a purely pragmatic approach to the solution. The answer?

Healthy, sensible, honed, balanced, understated, elegant, effortless and groomed… The new blueprints for contemporary makeup magnetize through their sheer beauty rather than any trickery, with a structure that is always sensible and sensitively applied (even when colours and textures project a more avant-garde edge). It’s a somewhat rural approach to city makeup. While the inspiration takes an equestrian, aristocratic, “country” angle, the impeccable application is definitely “town”. “I’m calling it Sense and Sensibility makeup,” explains Lyne Desnoyers.

“It’s about timeless classics done in a modern way – these are elements of makeup that never go out of fashion but simply get reinvented.” – Terry Barber, Director of Makeup Artistry for M·A·C Cosmetics

The perfect cleansing focus of a lip (make it nothing but a Russian red). The mastery of a gentle outdoors flush (must be seamless). Studies in what constitutes a modern bare face (p.s. it’s a fuller brow). Explorations in how to wear soft colour (cooler tones, subtler, fresher washes – a “Nordic approach to neutrals,” says Terry).

These looks ultimately carry a sophistication that elevates them beyond trend, becoming instead a new set of modern Classics.


趨勢重點1 – 理性與感性


整個妝容只以唇部做為唯一的焦點,使用展現女性魅力的經典顏色(紅、粉紅、玫瑰色而非前衛的橘紅、紫紅) ,以一種明顯但簡單純粹的方式看出風格的所在。這些妝容最終帶有一種讓它們超越彩妝趨勢的世故,反而成為一種新型態的現代經典。


Acne、Balmain、Carolina Herrera、Chalayan、Costello Tagliapietra、Damir Doma、Diane von Furstenberg、Giles、Marios Schwab、Monique Lhuillier、Nicole Farhi、Rick Owens、Ruffian、Simone Rocha。

M·A·C 資深彩妝師Think重點技法




A globally influenced independent woman is channelled this season, but think less “boho- festival goer” and more “grown-up gypsy”. There’s a certain eccentricism, but this world traveller is honed, not haphazard. “The bohemian spirit of this season has nothing to do with grungy girls,” agrees Lyne Desnoyers. “It’s more about the fantasy of an elegant eccentric, a woman who is ornate yet has exquisite taste.” “She’s a global wanderer who organically picks up on beauty elements during her travels, she hasn’t done a lot of homework on how to emulate the exact makeup of a particular culture,” explains Gordon Espinet of the fact that these looks are not culture-cloned makeup pastiches.

From stained soulful tints through to mesmerizing jewel-like metallics, it’s a trend that focuses on playing with the proportion and depth of an eye (perhaps bringing in a rustically tinted lip for balance). Call it a contemporary rethink on how to do “smoky”.

“Fashion wants to revisit a smoldery eye, but the issue is in devising one that isn’t trashy or retro,” ponders Terry Barber. Hence the focus on a mascara-less lash, and colours with a more antiquated patina and diffuse application than those dripping in jet-setting luxuriousness. Key shades? Those that pull inspiration from roaming the world – desert rocks, sunset and sepia stains, driftwood browns, weathered tans, sand, minerals, pastoral shades of plum and cranberry, metallic greys from asphalt and concrete through to slate and charcoal – all are employed to give a soulful depth to lids and lash lines. Ultimately, this beauty trend parallels fashion’s worldly-aware direction in considering how a nomadic lifestyle can influence the way you pull yourself together…feel your inner free spirit!


趨勢重點2 – 漫遊古感





Badgley Mischka、Barbara Bui

M·A·C 資深彩妝師Think重點技法




Exploring the construction and contours of a face isn’t a brand new idea in beauty (it’s one that’s been brewing for a few seasons now, culminating in SS2012’s love of skin in a laminate athletic gloss), yet for AW2012 the concept of sculpting continues in an increasingly cerebral direction. The beauty equivalent of the utilitarian and military vibe so omnipresent in fashion.

“Bone structure has moved on from last season’s hyper-highlighting into a consideration of how to add depth to a face with shadows.” – Terry Barber

“We’ve turned the light around this season – it’s now less about highlights and more about the depth of a contour. It creates a shaded face that is slightly hollow and haunted but extremely beautiful and not alien.” – Andrew Gallimore

In its purest form, this look is about a nude sculptural face as a canvas for a brow (straighter, stronger and more purposefully groomed, from which the other features seem to hang) – indeed, a brow is the axis of what makes these honed, nude looks contemporary. “It’s a highly technical form of beauty,” adds Terry Barber, of the myriad manners and devices (and products) employed to create it. From slightly paling down the skin (“it’s like working in negative, it automatically brings the shadows out,” explains Lyne Desnoyers), to very clever concealing, an array of Pro Sculpting Creams and skin-imitating Cream Colour Bases, this trend is absolutely about proper placement of a highlight and a contour. “To put in bone structure is a very knowing art form and the real mastery of being a makeup artist,” adds Terry.


趨勢重點3 – 琢磨骨架

探討臉部的構造與輪廓,在美容界並不是一個全新的概念,然而 2012 秋冬,雕刻立體感的概念將朝越來越理智的方向繼續前進。骨架已經從上季的超級打光推進到考慮如何用陰影為臉部增加深邃感的層次,現在要少打光,多點輪廓的深度。要打造有一點點凹陷,卻又是細膩準確的修容,舉例來說,請想像一個女人拍了一張黑白照,當臉上的明暗非常清楚時,你就會看到非常一氣呵成的輪廓。這個彩妝趨勢絕對是打光與輪廓的正確配置,我們要女孩們看起來美麗、乾淨、清新但輪廓絕對要鮮明,重視質感與線條而非只是顏色的陰暗。如何凸顯骨架是一種非常精明的藝術形式,也成為彩妝師必備的真正優勢。


McQ、A.F. Vandevorst、Alexander Wang、Felder Felder、Marni、Giambattista Valli、Gareth Pugh、Silvio Betterelli、Max Mara、Louise Gray。

M·A·C 資深彩妝師Think重點技法




While a black liquid liner can be inextricably linked with the past (a Twenties flapper, Forties feline, Fifties wings, Sixties flicks, Seventies punk, Eighties New Wave…), makeup artists this season have shrugged off the liners’ retro connotations and are considering the contemporary graphicism of a black line interpreted in an unconventional manner.

“This season isn’t about liner being classic; it’s about liner as an etching, about it creating a geometry on the face.”  – Gordon Espinet

Beauty is very much in this detail, though. While these lines are fragmented in their structure, by respecting the architecture of the eye shape, they tailor and enhance the face. The key reference points: Oriental precision (indeed, fashion’s collective eye seems trained on the East) and equestrian elegance – refined, original and intriguing, the new updated liner is “all about a trick of the eye that is very artistic. It’s about taking a classic gesture and reworking it into something non-conformist,” says Andrew Gallimore.


趨勢重點4 – 人工藝術

黑色眼線在每個年代都有特殊的代表作,例如20 年代的青春少女、40 年代的性感小野貓、50 年代的尾翼眼線、60 年代的電影造型、70 年代的龐克、80 年代的新浪潮…,2012秋冬打散重組每個年代的經典畫法,以一種不墨守成規的手法,詮釋當代幾何主義的黑色眼線。尊重眼型的構造,量身打造並畫出凸顯自我特色的幾何圖,而非同一種架構套在每個人身上。



Mary Katrantzou、Antonlo Marras、Aquascutum、Arzu Kaprol、Frankie Morello、Erdem、Felder Felder、John Richmond、Manish Arora、Moschino、Meadhamkirchhoff。

M·A·C 資深彩妝師Think重點技法



M‧A‧C資深彩妝師:Luc Bouchard的秋冬彩妝技法-摩登透明彩妝

M‧A‧C資深彩妝師:LUC BOUCHARD的秋冬彩妝技法這次特地為ELLE設計亞洲女性適合的妝容,這款摩登的60年代透明感彩妝,強調有點強韌的性格中並帶著詩意的美感,讓今年的秋冬妝彩多了­更迷人的氛圍。

Source: M·A·C Cosmetics, Voce Beauty (Taiwan)


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