M·A·C 2012 Autumn/Winter Makeup Trend Report

26 Oct

M·A·C 2012 秋冬彩妝趨勢解析

文化融合、結構感與自我風格是2012秋冬趨勢最明白的詮釋。
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M·A·C 2012 Autumn/Winter Makeup Trend

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TREND REPORT

M·A·C Cosmetics, the professional makeup company and makeup artist brand, expresses its support of the fashion world by supporting makeup artists at over 100 shows during this year’s international Autumn/Winter Collections. Known for quality products and the expertise of the M·A·C PRO TEAM, M·A·C continues to be at the forefront of trends by working in the trenches with designers, creators and grassroots organizations.

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AUTUMN/WINTER 2012 TRENDS

THE WOMAN AND THE WORLD…Frills, fripperies, flirtatious fun have taken a step back this season, as beauty has pulled into line with fashion in its key proposal: the question of how a modern, intelligent, pulled together woman wants to look as she operates in the world today.

It’s pragmatic. It’s considered. And certainly aware that a real interest lies where world cultures come together. Hence a culturally diverse and dynamic mood underpins AW2012, with the craft and art of beauty being explored and celebrated in myriad takes on global makeup gestures. It’s not so much a culture clash as a cultural collaboration, about interpreting familiar beauty accents through international eyes. Less important than the specific origins of these looks (from ancient Japan to the Italian Renaissance, British beauties to Slavic maidens…) is the idea of a new vocabulary of beauty reference points that are truly global in their vision.

Equally important as a world view is a sense of structure. Whether that’s done by creating a compelling bone structureor by anchoring the face with an extremely tailored feature – a red lip, a graphic black eye, or a more masterful brow (the definitive feature of AW2012), these looks project a cleansed approach to glamour that is at once timeless yet uncompromisingly modern by virtue of the execution exhibiting an attitude of knowing, womanly strength.

Yet nothing about this beauty is unattainably hard or severe. This season’s femininity references a certain sense of the masculine (those straight brows and that sculpted bone structure), but we’ve moved on from the (now old) idea of the “androgynous”. Sure, the international woman of AW2012 is no champion of overt sexiness, but don’t equate her lack of purposeful provocation with looking boyish. AW2012 is very much about a woman, but one wise and masterful enough with her style to play with a more controlled contemporaneity.

Indeed, the passé pastiche of jet set, “expensive” style seems vulgar compared to something more authentic and real. “Luxury is not the same as ostentation,” confirms Lyne Desnoyers. “The opulence this season is in the details, which is, of course, the pure definition of chic.”… A WORLDLY WOMAN INDEED.

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今年不再拘泥於哪一個年代的特殊風格,對於妝容的特定起源(從古老日本到義大利文藝復興,從大不列顛美女到斯拉夫少女)也運用國際的眼光,來詮釋這些熟悉的美感,這不是文化衝突而是一種文化合作,一些具有全球視野的美麗參考點似乎已顯得不那麼重要了。如同一個世界的旅人,在旅遊時會有系統地拾取美麗元素的全球漫遊者,並不會特意模仿某個特定文化的確切彩妝,也並非文化模仿的彩妝拼湊品。

與世界觀同等重要的是結構感。無論是透過打造一個具衝突感的骨架結構或精雕細琢的五官  紅唇、生動的黑色眼妝或更具優越感的眉毛來達成,這些妝容都投射出一種展現魅力的乾淨手法,由於這樣的魅力確切展現出一種知性與女性深度的態度,因此一瞬間成為永恆,卻又堅決摩登到底。

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Sense + Sensibility

The question of quintessential beauty – what manner of makeup provides a prototype for a modern woman – is posed this season, with myriad looks taking a purely pragmatic approach to the solution. The answer?

Healthy, sensible, honed, balanced, understated, elegant, effortless and groomed… The new blueprints for contemporary makeup magnetize through their sheer beauty rather than any trickery, with a structure that is always sensible and sensitively applied (even when colours and textures project a more avant-garde edge). It’s a somewhat rural approach to city makeup. While the inspiration takes an equestrian, aristocratic, “country” angle, the impeccable application is definitely “town”. “I’m calling it Sense and Sensibility makeup,” explains Lyne Desnoyers.

“It’s about timeless classics done in a modern way – these are elements of makeup that never go out of fashion but simply get reinvented.” – Terry Barber, Director of Makeup Artistry for M·A·C Cosmetics

The perfect cleansing focus of a lip (make it nothing but a Russian red). The mastery of a gentle outdoors flush (must be seamless). Studies in what constitutes a modern bare face (p.s. it’s a fuller brow). Explorations in how to wear soft colour (cooler tones, subtler, fresher washes – a “Nordic approach to neutrals,” says Terry).

These looks ultimately carry a sophistication that elevates them beyond trend, becoming instead a new set of modern Classics.

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趨勢重點1 – 理性與感性

今年秋冬的趨勢其實就是要用理性的手法呈現女孩的真實面貌,不是把天生膚色完全覆蓋住,而是將膚質、膚色的特色凸顯出來,是感性的、非常有貴族氣息、經過精心設計的,但卻又感覺像是不經意完成有如天生膚質般,既不過亮也不粉霧,呈現出完美的自然肌膚紋理與保水度,但絕不是刻意噴水、加工打亮,或像修片般,就是要讓視覺和觸覺都一樣的完美,而且比前幾季都來得更技巧,並將所有細節表現得淋漓盡致,以一種健康的、經過琢磨的、平衡的、低調的、優雅的、不費力的薄透自然的美感來吸引眾人的目光。

整個妝容只以唇部做為唯一的焦點,使用展現女性魅力的經典顏色(紅、粉紅、玫瑰色而非前衛的橘紅、紫紅) ,以一種明顯但簡單純粹的方式看出風格的所在。這些妝容最終帶有一種讓它們超越彩妝趨勢的世故,反而成為一種新型態的現代經典。

設計師

Acne、Balmain、Carolina Herrera、Chalayan、Costello Tagliapietra、Damir Doma、Diane von Furstenberg、Giles、Marios Schwab、Monique Lhuillier、Nicole Farhi、Rick Owens、Ruffian、Simone Rocha。

M·A·C 資深彩妝師Think重點技法

今年秋冬利用了女性最性感的兩個重點來表現,肌膚與雙唇。先在肌膚上薄薄的刷上BB輕粉霜做肌膚的調色與修飾,並用190粉底刷沾取極少量的遮瑕膏,輕輕勻再額頭、T字及眼下三角區域。並用完美潤澤粉餅或是柔礦迷光雙效蜜粉底均勻的輕刷在肌膚上,創造第二層肌膚質感!完美的唇型只有兩種顏色,絕對自然的唇色或是性感飽和的紅色,秘訣就在上唇妝前,先利用妝前潤色打亮筆修飾唇邊,讓唇型立體,即可輕易幫助創造立體的唇型描繪。

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ROAM-ANTIQUE

A globally influenced independent woman is channelled this season, but think less “boho- festival goer” and more “grown-up gypsy”. There’s a certain eccentricism, but this world traveller is honed, not haphazard. “The bohemian spirit of this season has nothing to do with grungy girls,” agrees Lyne Desnoyers. “It’s more about the fantasy of an elegant eccentric, a woman who is ornate yet has exquisite taste.” “She’s a global wanderer who organically picks up on beauty elements during her travels, she hasn’t done a lot of homework on how to emulate the exact makeup of a particular culture,” explains Gordon Espinet of the fact that these looks are not culture-cloned makeup pastiches.

From stained soulful tints through to mesmerizing jewel-like metallics, it’s a trend that focuses on playing with the proportion and depth of an eye (perhaps bringing in a rustically tinted lip for balance). Call it a contemporary rethink on how to do “smoky”.

“Fashion wants to revisit a smoldery eye, but the issue is in devising one that isn’t trashy or retro,” ponders Terry Barber. Hence the focus on a mascara-less lash, and colours with a more antiquated patina and diffuse application than those dripping in jet-setting luxuriousness. Key shades? Those that pull inspiration from roaming the world – desert rocks, sunset and sepia stains, driftwood browns, weathered tans, sand, minerals, pastoral shades of plum and cranberry, metallic greys from asphalt and concrete through to slate and charcoal – all are employed to give a soulful depth to lids and lash lines. Ultimately, this beauty trend parallels fashion’s worldly-aware direction in considering how a nomadic lifestyle can influence the way you pull yourself together…feel your inner free spirit!

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趨勢重點2 – 漫遊古感

本季的異國風情不要邋遢的懶女孩,而比較是具有優雅古怪的夢幻,一個裝飾華麗卻又有精緻品味的女人。流行重新回到煙燻眼妝,但問題是要設計出一個不彆腳、不復古的煙燻眼,因此妝容的焦點是少刷點睫毛膏的睫毛,與帶有比那些名媛式的奢華更多古色與擴散妝效的色彩。

顏色呢?將傳統的秋季顏色再重新加工,透過加入金屬感,注入光澤感,將傳統秋天的質感再重新加工。那些從漫遊世界中得到靈感的色澤沙漠岩石、日落與烏賊的色斑、浮木的棕色、風化的棕褐色、沙子、礦物、梅子與蔓越莓的田園色澤、從瀝青與混凝土到石板與木炭的金屬灰全都被用來為眼皮與眼線增添一種精神上的深邃感。

無暇的嘴唇有加了些灰色進去,也加了些酒紅色,所以感覺起來像是將暖色系浸入冷色系的水槽中,添加了一層冷色系的薄膜。

設計師

Badgley Mischka、Barbara Bui

M·A·C 資深彩妝師Think重點技法

煙暈的技法點綴上像是古董飾品上散發的光彩與色澤,技巧是把光澤感加入完全霧面的黑色裡,創造顏色與材質的對比。利用霜狀或筆狀的煙燻色打底,在眼睛上做出煙燻的暈染,再用閃爍古銅綠光澤的眼影壓在眼頭,或是把帶有古意的玫瑰金色的魔幻星塵放在下眼影位置,對比的顏色與材質創造新鮮的時尚感。如果喜歡自然妝感,也可只在眼皮上單色暈染時尚焦點小眼影-PATINA,即可創造出簡單又流行的漫遊古感妝容。

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HONE-STRUCTURE

Exploring the construction and contours of a face isn’t a brand new idea in beauty (it’s one that’s been brewing for a few seasons now, culminating in SS2012’s love of skin in a laminate athletic gloss), yet for AW2012 the concept of sculpting continues in an increasingly cerebral direction. The beauty equivalent of the utilitarian and military vibe so omnipresent in fashion.

“Bone structure has moved on from last season’s hyper-highlighting into a consideration of how to add depth to a face with shadows.” – Terry Barber

“We’ve turned the light around this season – it’s now less about highlights and more about the depth of a contour. It creates a shaded face that is slightly hollow and haunted but extremely beautiful and not alien.” – Andrew Gallimore

In its purest form, this look is about a nude sculptural face as a canvas for a brow (straighter, stronger and more purposefully groomed, from which the other features seem to hang) – indeed, a brow is the axis of what makes these honed, nude looks contemporary. “It’s a highly technical form of beauty,” adds Terry Barber, of the myriad manners and devices (and products) employed to create it. From slightly paling down the skin (“it’s like working in negative, it automatically brings the shadows out,” explains Lyne Desnoyers), to very clever concealing, an array of Pro Sculpting Creams and skin-imitating Cream Colour Bases, this trend is absolutely about proper placement of a highlight and a contour. “To put in bone structure is a very knowing art form and the real mastery of being a makeup artist,” adds Terry.

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趨勢重點3 – 琢磨骨架

探討臉部的構造與輪廓,在美容界並不是一個全新的概念,然而 2012 秋冬,雕刻立體感的概念將朝越來越理智的方向繼續前進。骨架已經從上季的超級打光推進到考慮如何用陰影為臉部增加深邃感的層次,現在要少打光,多點輪廓的深度。要打造有一點點凹陷,卻又是細膩準確的修容,舉例來說,請想像一個女人拍了一張黑白照,當臉上的明暗非常清楚時,你就會看到非常一氣呵成的輪廓。這個彩妝趨勢絕對是打光與輪廓的正確配置,我們要女孩們看起來美麗、乾淨、清新但輪廓絕對要鮮明,重視質感與線條而非只是顏色的陰暗。如何凸顯骨架是一種非常精明的藝術形式,也成為彩妝師必備的真正優勢。

設計師

McQ、A.F. Vandevorst、Alexander Wang、Felder Felder、Marni、Giambattista Valli、Gareth Pugh、Silvio Betterelli、Max Mara、Louise Gray。

M·A·C 資深彩妝師Think重點技法

修容、打亮不外乎就是希望讓臉型立體漂亮,今年秋冬利用層疊手法與霜狀材質讓臉型立體、讓鼻字高挺、讓眼睛深邃,但卻又自然的像是宛若天生。第一訣竅就是先讓眉型立體,利用超細緻眉型筆畫出適合自己的眉型,再利用比膚色深一點的顏色,順著眉頭往下延伸暈出一點鼻影,建議使用#217時尚暈色刷來暈染。接著使用霜狀材質來打造兩頰的輪廓修飾,粉底之後、蜜粉之前,讓顏色融進肌膚裡面,訣竅就是利用刷子不停的來回暈染直到沒有邊線即可。

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ARTI-TECH

While a black liquid liner can be inextricably linked with the past (a Twenties flapper, Forties feline, Fifties wings, Sixties flicks, Seventies punk, Eighties New Wave…), makeup artists this season have shrugged off the liners’ retro connotations and are considering the contemporary graphicism of a black line interpreted in an unconventional manner.

“This season isn’t about liner being classic; it’s about liner as an etching, about it creating a geometry on the face.”  – Gordon Espinet

Beauty is very much in this detail, though. While these lines are fragmented in their structure, by respecting the architecture of the eye shape, they tailor and enhance the face. The key reference points: Oriental precision (indeed, fashion’s collective eye seems trained on the East) and equestrian elegance – refined, original and intriguing, the new updated liner is “all about a trick of the eye that is very artistic. It’s about taking a classic gesture and reworking it into something non-conformist,” says Andrew Gallimore.

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趨勢重點4 – 人工藝術

黑色眼線在每個年代都有特殊的代表作,例如20 年代的青春少女、40 年代的性感小野貓、50 年代的尾翼眼線、60 年代的電影造型、70 年代的龐克、80 年代的新浪潮…,2012秋冬打散重組每個年代的經典畫法,以一種不墨守成規的手法,詮釋當代幾何主義的黑色眼線。尊重眼型的構造,量身打造並畫出凸顯自我特色的幾何圖,而非同一種架構套在每個人身上。

結構中是一段一段的,這是一種玩弄極致藝術的眼妝技巧,是要採取古典的姿態,卻又把它重新做成某種不循規蹈矩的東西,讓彩妝呈現更硬,不那麼直接,是很圖像式的黑色眼妝。

設計師

Mary Katrantzou、Antonlo Marras、Aquascutum、Arzu Kaprol、Frankie Morello、Erdem、Felder Felder、John Richmond、Manish Arora、Moschino、Meadhamkirchhoff。

M·A·C 資深彩妝師Think重點技法

黑色眼線在今年大大被發想,利用結構式的框架來改變與標的眼型。使用純黑色的眼線產品,把眼睛整個框起來,並創造出想要的眼型,即是今年流行的手法!如果想要更有創意,可嘗試在雙眼皮位置多畫一道眼線,或是讓眼尾的線條變成更立體的三角形狀,建議可先用眼線筆描出想要的形狀,再搭配流暢眼線凝霜讓線條更俐落,或利用超激光防水眼線液重覆描繪上去創造漆皮的材質光感,讓眼線更加摩登。

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M‧A‧C資深彩妝師:Luc Bouchard的秋冬彩妝技法-摩登透明彩妝

M‧A‧C資深彩妝師:LUC BOUCHARD的秋冬彩妝技法這次特地為ELLE設計亞洲女性適合的妝容,這款摩登的60年代透明感彩妝,強調有點強韌的性格中並帶著詩意的美感,讓今年的秋冬妝彩多了­更迷人的氛圍。

Source: M·A·C Cosmetics, Voce Beauty (Taiwan)

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