M·A·C 2013 Spring/Summer Makeup Trend Report

30 Jan

MAC 2013 SS Trend 春 夏彩妝趨勢 VOGUE

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EASE+EDGE become one in SS2012, a season when the key beauty notion is simplicity with a forward-thinking freshness to it. Minimalism – as the unequivocal expression of a singular idea – is the most relevant approach: it’s found in the purity of a perfectly pared-back skin (SIG-NATURE)

A languid wash of colour (NU-ANCE) takes in shades of highly pigmented pastels, from turquoise and lemon to silver and translucently dark metallics.

A monochromatic Bedouin bronze, blurred on the eyes and bone structure (PURI-TAN).

An easy graphicism of purist colour blocked on lids or lips (SCI-CHEDELIC).

There’s a delicacy to beauty this season which speaks to the way women really want to look in the here and now – a time when subtle, fresh and confident feel more appropriate than hard, sexy or powerful.

Indeed, the idea of fluidity and a move away from hard lines is key this Spring/Summer.

Seamlessly humid finishes and cream colours prevail, with radiant complexions and balanced brows forming the cornerstone to every look. (Note: brows are still news, but dominate the face less than last season).

From Nuances of bare to strident modernist forms or colour, a harmonious geometry defines makeup this season, which respects the underlying structure of the face, complementing and accenting its form rather than forcing the features.

“SS2013 is an exercise in beautiful simplicity,” agrees Lyne Desnoyers. “It’s about telling the story of contemporary femininity one detail at a time, wrapping it up into an organic whole that turns from the retro and pastiche towards a vision that is effortlessly, yet uncompromisingly, modern.”

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MAC 2013 SS Trend 春 夏彩妝趨勢 MAC Pro

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 2013 M·A·C 春夏彩妝趨勢

每一年、每一季彩妝趨勢總是看似大同小異,裡面卻暗藏細節變化。作為全球流行美學指標、縱橫四大時裝周後台的 M·A·C 整理出2013春/夏美妝趨勢,結合自然與前衛的簡單風格,歸類出四種趨勢特色。不論是講求自然的裸妝光感、經典不敗的煙熏眼妝、俏皮玩味的霓光紅脣…,2013年春夏的彩妝關鍵就是遠離剛硬的線條,用仔細但輕鬆的方式表達一個妝容概念。你可以在與膚色完美的配對中找到純淨潤澤或月光照耀下朦朧的質感(純粹自然),從藍綠色、檸檬色到銀色、黑色金屬…帶入高彩度透光色彩的浪漫色系(微光純色),重視原本的輪廓結構、彷彿金沙不經意吹撫過臉龐般的朦朧修容(金沙古銅),用最不費力的方式,大膽、強而有力又酷炫的霓虹色彩打造眼皮或唇色(驚豔幻彩)。2013春夏訴說著女性此刻此處真正想要表現的樣貌是細膩、活力與自信,重新重視女孩們臉部原本的結構,大方展現自己最摩登的女性魅力。

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TREND 1SIG-NATURE  (純粹自然)

MAC Sig-Nature純粹自然-01

Naturally perfected, luminous skin is the signature of the season. Intuitive, considered, delicately handled…these complexions extract the “real” from ethereal. “It’s a mannequin eggshell finish.” Andrew Gallimore 

“I want super polished skin, really perfected and beautifully rich. It’s highly reflective with a marble-like, alabaster quality.” Lucia Pica

Buffed in Mineralize Moisture SPF 15 Foundation, and delicately shaped and brought to life with the most subtle, sensitive techniques: concealers just a couple of shades darker than the skin tone, emollient glows replicated with pearl Cream Colour Base in Shell or Luna, skin-identical pigments put in around the eye. Beauty’s new signature of purity: skin is statuesque and smoothed. More luxe, less raw. “Almost as if you are seeing makeup through skin care.” Terry Barber

Hydrated, but not wet…highlights on the high planes. The neutral lip: translucently balmed or with a touch of lipstick to perfectly heighten the natural tone.

3D SPA SKIN: balmy and beautified, makeup that looks like skin. Soft, no hard contours…hazes and haloes of light. Brows to frame, not force, and still no mascara. A feminine interpretation of a boyish beauty – no straight lines.

Less than zero enhancement. “Utter perfection isn’t chic, but you have to put a lot of thought and knowledge into looking effortless.” Lyne Desnoyer

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Trend 1︰Sig-Nature純粹自然

這次的彩妝重點是裸妝的升級版,呈現極簡的裸妝卻又透露出華麗豐潤的氣息,強調『潤澤與極簡』。幾乎就像透過護膚來看彩妝,或像是你先化妝再上保養品的感覺;潤澤,但不像去年是像有噴保濕噴霧,濕濕的感覺,讓五官呈現自然明亮的立體感。那種高度潤澤光感呈現出像是做完SPA的美肌效果,如月光般,透出朦朧和光暈;柔和又美麗,也彷如不存在的粉底效果。

線條感的精緻與否不是重點,我們不希望呈現過於匠氣的妝容。決勝點在於中庸之道;肌膚必須做好保濕、將產品層層堆疊、以霜狀質地的彩妝打亮、僅於必要的部分使用粉餅或蜜粉。極簡是不二法門,少還要再少,重質不重量。

眉型是賦予整體妝容的重點所在,勾勒眉形卻不強調,且不使用睫毛膏,讓女性的魅力中夾雜一點男孩的風格。
這個趨勢重點在於彩妝所能呈現的精緻效果與挑戰彩妝的極限,不是單純呈現剛柔並濟的特色而已,還能表現出力道,創造出有點界於不食人間煙火和魅影的感覺。

M·A·C 資深彩妝師重點技法
1. 選擇適合自己肌膚的妝前保養,接著用妝前打亮筆先在眼睛周圍及C字部位修飾。
2. 使用透明無色並可霧化毛孔的毛孔隱形粉定妝,並在C字帶放上霜狀的打亮。喜歡粉霧質感的可以在上完粉底後,用168刷沾取粉餅,柔軟的山羊毛可幫助控制上粉時的粉量,可讓肌膚呈現出如月光般朦朧的光暈。

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TREND 2NU-ANCE  (微光純色)

Nu-ance微光純色-01

Beauty has had a “palette cleanse” in a literal sense this season, as clean, popping pastels express a modern romance with paler colour. Distinct from last season’s muted exploration of colour, SS2013’s more lucid stance takes the runway’s enduring interest in vivid digital prints and twists them into a fresh look at wearing colour that is contemporary in its clean purity.

Turquoise, Lilac, Lemon, Mint, Aqua, Apple, Peach – shades pulled from heightened nature, from sea escapes to sunsets. Back-Lit Colour – a wash on the lid, wrapping around the cheek, gently amplifying the lip. The sensuous poetry of modern makeup. Colour viewed through a sunlit sea. Inspired by nature; delivered by technology.

Pastel-Fluoro Hybrid.

Flashes of silver and cold metallic feel freshly futuristic. A nod to the 60s in placement – embrace a rounded eye shape. The new view on smoky: a transparent wash of depth, invariably with a metallic sheen. Flat matte is less relevant than buffed-in creamy tints this season.

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Trend 2: 微光純色 (Nu-Ance)

2013春夏,美麗擁有自己的「獨特純淨色彩」,如同字面一般,乾淨、顯眼的粉嫩清淡色系更能展現當代的浪漫氛圍。與上一季探索柔和顏色不同,2013是鮮豔及飽和的繽紛色彩~從海景到夕陽:紫丁香淡紫色、檸檬黃色、薄荷綠色、水綠色、蘋果粉紅色、蜜桃橘紅色和閃亮銀色…..除此之外,更多了份透光感,一種可讓人看穿的透明感,一種色彩裡所隱含的另一種色彩的驚喜。猶如大海上的藍、陽光下的綠葉,飽和的色澤在光線上顯得濃郁卻不沉重,光線的變化下卻又透出其它些許色彩。

這一季的風格也比較甜美,粉紅珊瑚色調、粉彩色調,搭配霜狀質地所呈現出的整體妝容,表達出極度水漾、柔美的特色。或是運用金屬色系、水洗色澤,以柔和、重點式或放射狀線條來呈現低調細膩的小小驚喜。

M·A·C 資深彩妝師重點技法 :
1. 可以利用粉持色眼影或眼彩霜,搭配鬆軟的暈色刷,例如224刷,217刷,用旋轉的方式上色,讓色彩融合並服貼於眼皮上, 喜歡可以透光的金屬質感顏色,也可用242刷沾濕後,沾取魔幻星塵眼影塗抹在眼褶處。
2. 利用粉持色眼線筆在把睫毛根部的空洞捕滿,畫出隱形眼線,讓眼睛有神,搭配出閃閃發光的眼影,可有畫龍點睛的效果。
3. 在這個趨勢,選對眼影的材質,與選對上色的工具,是必須的要件。

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TREND 3PURI-TAN  (金沙古銅)

Pure-Tan沙古銅-01-2

Minimalist. Reductionist. Singular. The graphic statement gets a 60s spin this season (without resorting to a redux).

Op-arty colour feels gestural, confidently committed and effortlessly cool, never bourgeois or overstated. Colour with conviction. “Poetic with a twist of something edgy, so gutsy and punk it’s chic.” Stéphane Marais

Graphicism in shape and/or colour – the new garde of colour blocking where organic intersects with structure. It’s about one idea. Even the red lip becomes part of a contemporary colour story, which doesn’t feel referential to the past thanks to modern matte textures and pops of hyper-bright pigment.

Bold on a base of lightness and luminescence. 60s optimism, change, free spirit and avant-garde. Festival goer, abandon, self-invention. Minimalism is pushed in new directions this season as artists challenge themselves to further distill the message of this movement in shapes and shades that say something new.

Primary Pigments.

Organic Meets Precision: contained shapes that wrap around the features, retaining softness whilst shaping them.

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Trend 3︰Pure-Tan沙古銅

今年的古銅是不再是把全臉刷成深色,也不再只是在雙頰刷上修容粉或古銅亮粉。它可以隨意放在你想要的部位,放在眼睛上的大地色系,或是唇部的金棕唇彩。夏季妝容是融入自然元素的大好時機,所以一定會有沙漠、強風、陽光等元素特色。2013年的重點在於阿拉伯式的華麗風格,彷彿走過沙漠、陽光吻膚般的亮麗光澤。又如現身於印度某處的維多利亞風淑女;在炎熱天氣下香汗淋漓,宛如沒有化妝的感覺。搭配著透亮、潤澤的肌膚感,使用些許帶有光澤的修容,輕鬆且柔和地來強調五官的輪廓,像微風吹拂一陣金色的沙,不著痕跡地輕飄在臉上。

這股具有水感又渾然一體的古銅旋風,以更現代、簡單的形式展現美麗的古銅膚色,閃爍健康光芒,並以融化、柔和般的金屬光澤質地裝飾臉部,改善氣色。不明顯的暖金色和小麥色可以修飾五官。這改變了過去一季改變臉部輪廓妝容的風潮,而以較細微、清淡的方式修飾肌膚,而非過去的男性化、剛硬、僵直的處理方式。

M·A·C 資深彩妝師重點技法 :
1. 技巧在於從你的五官當中選澤一個你最喜歡的部位或是想要表現的位置,放上金棕或大地色系。
2. 眼睛的部位可用柔礦迷光的眼影做出漂亮的暈染,刷上睫毛膏或放上黑色眼線。
3. 只在唇部用淺金色眼影打亮唇鋒後再搽上帶有金色光感的口紅或唇彩。
4. 如果想表現輪廓,還是可以創造出雙頰的立體與光澤,但記得減少亮粉的用量,讓顏色自然融進皮膚,是一個要訣。

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TREND 4SCI-CHEDELIC  (驚艷幻)

Psy-chedelic驚豔幻彩-12

A puritan, gently applied – and, vitally, gleaming – approach to bronze defines SS2013’s relationship with the tan. The features are brought out in a palette of desert shades that reference Californian girls via a 60s and Bedouin vision, transparently tinted in washes of cream colour, adding a sophisticated monochrome feel to the face that taps into a womanly, photographic spirit akin to the femininity channeled by Peter Lindbergh, Herb Ritts and Bruce Weber.

Eyes with the impression of squinting into the sun. Bronze with an almost aquatic effect. Golden honey-beige tones…almost imperceptible. An essay in sepia. Buffed and burnished. “The new smart metallics work with the glow of the skin and gently partake in shaping the features.” Lyne Desnoyers

Sepia tones…Blowout Browns.

“Within this palette there is a sophisticated return to the smoky eye, which is more effortless and transparent. Fashion wants a darker eye that is not cheap and tacky.” Terry Barber

A healthy reflective glow approximates the beauty gesture of a tan in a more modern and minimal manner. It’s about using tan-relevant shades to accent the eyes and add warmth to the face in molten, softly metallic textures.

Seamless shades of warm gold and wheat, highlights wrap around the features. This much more nuanced and subtle treatment of the skin replaces the harder, face-changing sculpting of last season. There is nothing masculine, hard or linear about the way these colours wrap around the bone structure and cup the features. “The idea of beauty looking slightly weathered is actually a highly technical thing to do.” Terry Barber

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Trend 4︰Psy-chedelic驚豔幻彩

這一季的重點在於以開放心態擁抱色彩,並以非常簡約的方式運用色彩,在預設範圍裡帶來出乎意料的驚喜,讓各種色彩皆大歡喜,猶如一場彩妝玩趣。60年代的樂觀主義、改變、自由與前衛風格將本季本季極簡主義被推入新方向,就像藝術家們不斷挑戰自我,用形狀和顏色創造新氣象,用色塊勾勒五官,保留五官柔和感的同時,也更凸顯其形狀,這是一個可以帶出自我風格與自信的一個趨勢。

大膽的用螢光粉紅、亮綠色或鮮黃色..等歐普藝術色彩般完美色塊來呈現心裡所想要的,上妝的範圍較不同於以往,像是一種重點表達方式,與極簡的背景主題呈現出很「跳」的對比。

今年有許多大膽的妝容,是經過理性的思考,設計出來,非常刻意的色塊,範圍卻又有些低調,但原則就是單一的飽和色,使用飽和的霓虹色調,放在單一部位作為目光焦點。

M·A·C 資深彩妝師重點技法
1. 如果想要注重眼部可利用彩色眼線類產品,畫出飽和彩色眼線,訣竅在於讓眼尾保持平拉的效果,不要上揚,更可以創造前衛的妝感。
2. 利用霓虹的色調塑造出飽滿的雙唇,讓唇形圓潤漂亮,可以在上完口紅後在利用同色系唇線筆在最外圍輪廓地方輕輕勾勒暈染,可幫助唇形完美飽和。

Blog SourceM·A·C CosmeticsUrCosme (Taiwan), VOGUE (Taiwan)

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