From Runway to Vanity: the 6 Must-Know Summer Make-up Key Words

5 May

從T台到化妝台必知的6大夏妝關鍵字

T台上的流行與色彩,總是會引起、激發出彩妝上的靈感與發想,但秀場妝容要如何轉換成為日常妝感,看看怎麼見招拆招。
The trends and colors of fashion runways are always great inspirations and stimulation for make-up looks, but how do you translate the fashion runway looks into your daily make-up routines in the summer?

alberta-ferretti-spring-2012-dewy-makeup

Vionnet Backstage at Paris Fashion Week Spring Summer 2013 Collections

estee lauder idealist  even skintone illuminator 21. 肌膚除了透,還要淨、更要光

夏天底妝贏在輕薄、透亮,妝前保養很重要!美容專家柳燕說到:「透過指壓的淋巴按摩,特別在於耳朵下方、兩頰、太陽穴等位置可促進循環、趕走壞氣色。」啟動肌膚循環後,可擦上具潤色效果的防曬隔離霜,做到第一層膚色修飾,接下來使用粉底量越少越好,以眼下、兩頰三角區為主,其餘用蜜粉輕輕掃過,妳會發現粉量越少的輕盈底妝,無須太擔心脫妝問題。

  • 夏天妝前修飾乳很重要,Dior韓國特約彩妝師Sung Ji-ahn建議,「擔心毛孔粗大,先擦上可讓毛孔柔焦的修飾乳,想要透亮,可帶有珠光效果的飾底乳。」
  • 全臉使用粉底絕對會讓妝脫的嚴重,上粉底前,先用遮瑕膏解決黑眼圈或膚色不均問題,再刷上淡淡的底妝。
  • 海棉或粉底刷是夏天輕薄底妝的好幫手,只要將粉底用量集中在臉中央、鼻翼兩側,指腹無法做到的輕薄與拋光效果,海棉或粉底刷都能輕鬆達到。

1. Pure Skin with Radiance

The importance of summer base make-up is all about sheerness, radiance and preparation of skin.  “Through massage in the area just underneath the ears, cheeks and temples with your fingertips, it helps to promote circulation of energy,” says beauty expert Yan Liu. After the facial massage, you can apply tinted sun blocks, it helps to balance your skin’s color correction; then use a light amount of foundation focusing just in the area underneath the eyes and on the cheeks. Finish the rest of the face with a dust of powder, the less the powder, the sheerer the base make-up, and you don’t have to worry much about make-up wearing off during the day.

  • “Primer is especially important for summer make-up,” says Sung Ji-ahn, Appointed Make-up Artist for Dior (Korea). “If you have larger pores, use primers that can minimize the appearance of pores; if you want radiance on the skin, you can use primers with glowing pigments.”
  • If you use foundation all over your face, you will have the problem of make-up wearing off during the day. Before you apply foundation, first use concealer to cover under eye darkness or other pigment discolorations, and then apply foundation lightly with a foundation brush.
  • Make-up sponges and foundation brushes are your best friends for summer’s sheer make-up application. Apply foundation mostly in the center of your face and both sides of the nose, then blend it with a sponge or brush, this will give you a result of light and sheer foundation effects that can’t be achieved by using your fingertips.

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blue eyeshadow

BlueEyes2. 神秘藍眼影最夯

對於藍眼影總是有種害怕出錯的疑慮存在,不過這可是今夏潮流,建議可使用具海軍藍色調較為深沉的眼影,取代天空藍、淺藍色系,妳會發現原來藍色眼影讓眼睛深邃的效果還不錯。

2. Mystical Blue Eye Shadow is IN

We always worry about making mistakes when using a blue color eye shadow, but blue color is actually IN this summer. We recommend darker shades of blue such as navy blue to replace lighter shades such as sky blue, you will find blue eye shadow will give you a deep-set eye effect.

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Dior 2014 SS L-or Show-07

Christian-Dior-beauty-fall-couture-2013

3. 閃不停的金屬光

不要害羞,夏天好好「往臉上貼金」!不過要怎麼貼的漂亮,秘訣就在使用金色眼影或膏狀眼影,均勻的塗抹在眼褶上,單一色系在刷上漆黑的睫毛,金與黑的完美結合,漂亮!

3. Gold Bling-Blings

Don’t be shy to use gold colors on your face this summer! How to make it look pretty? The trick is to apply a gold color eye shadow (powder or cream formula) evenly on the eyelid, then brush mascara onto the lashes in pitch-black, the combo of gold and black: beauty!

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Graphic Eye Liner Looks

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4. 創意十足趣味眼線

可用眼線膠筆或眼線液筆畫出不論是20年代或60年代誇張或帶有魅惑感的眼線線條,當然妳也可多練練秀場上的創意貓眼,會有意想不到、增加大眼的眼神效果。

4. Creative Eye Lines Shapes

Use an eye pencil or liquid eye liner to draw liners that look like the 20’s or the 60’s style to get full dramatic, alluring effect. Of course you can also practice drawing that catty, feline flick eyeliners as seen on the fashion runways, and you will be surprised with the effect of the enlarged eye looks.

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5. 光澤紅暈雙頰最迷人

模擬運動完後散發出的自然紅暈光澤最讓人愛,所以可看到所推出的夏妝新腮紅,以漸層感的腮紅盤,刷出自然的暈染感,不會假假的、還會被人稱讚氣色怎麼那麼好!

  • 腮紅膏也有異曲同工的效果,彩妝師Vincent建議,沾取腮紅膏可先用在手背上沾一沾,再用指腹輕拍,從笑肌往外推開。
  • 額頭中央、鼻樑中間與下巴也可沾取一點腮紅膏,創造曬傷感。

5. Glowing Red Cheeks are Charming

You know that red cheeks you get after you exercise? Yes, that’s exactly the red cheek color palette for this summer; it gives a gradient of red without looking fake. Natural glow!

  • “Cream blush will help you achieve the same effect,” says make-up artist Vincent. “Take some cream blush on the back of your hand, pad it lightly on the apple of your cheek and blend it outward.”
  • You can also use a tiny bit of cream blush and apply on the center of your forehead, bridge of your nose and the chin area, it creates a sunburn effect appearance.

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orange-lipstick

Cara-Delevigne-Orange-Lip-High-

6. 啾出鮮嫩多汁的螢光橘唇

螢光橘唇可說是抓住眼光的利器!與過去的橘色唇膏不同之處,螢光色調的橘色亮度與飽和度更高,對於提亮膚色效果也更好,不論哪種膚色都好駕馭。

  • 想復古味重一點,那就用唇線筆加強唇形;融合一點霧面唇膏也不錯。
  • 使用這類亮色唇膏,平常護唇的保養動作,做得徹底點,唇紋才不會出現過深問題。

6. Kisses with Neon Orange Lip Color

Neon orange color lips will put you in the center of attention! Unlike the orange color lipsticks used in the past, neon shades give better effects in brightness and intensity; in addition, it also helps to brighten up your skin, regardless of your skin color.

  • Retro? Use lip pencil to emphasize the contour of your lip shape, and it’s not a bad idea to mix a matte texture lipstick.
  • When using brighter lipstick color like this, it is essential to take care of your lips on a regular basis, so the lines on the lip surface can be diminish.

 

Source: VOGUE (Taiwan)

Chinese-English Translation: TommyBeautyPro

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Instagram & Twitter @tommybeautypro

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