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Make-up Step-by-Step! 上妝步驟大公開!

14 Aug

V 12 +13

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By: Jenny Tseng / Re-Blog from: VOGUE (Taiwan) Beauty Blog 

常常被問我的上妝步驟,今天來跟大家介紹一下我自己平常標準的上妝步驟!

妝前的步驟和產品依個人需求可以有不同的選擇,之前在分別在兩篇文章中過介紹過的, [洗臉 -> (化妝水) -> 乳液or 妝前乳  -> (隔離霜、or 防曬乳) ]

今天算是個精簡的上妝步驟總整理,首先是一張長長的整理,接著再說明!

Make-up artists are often being asked about make-up application steps. Taipei- & Vancouver-based make-up artist Jenny Tseng shares her make-up secrets! For her, the pre-makeup prepping steps are different according to your personal need; in general, the steps are: Cleansing –> Toner –> Moisturizer and/or Primer –> Sun Block. In this blog post, Jenny breaks down her make-up procedure in 11 steps.

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In 12 +13

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步驟1. 上粉底 . Foundation Application

關於底妝,如何選擇適合的粉底液、BB霜、CC霜…之前有寫過,可以看先前的這篇文章>> 裸妝這樣畫!Natural Makeup !  <<

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In 12 +13

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步驟2. 遮瑕 . Concealing 

遮瑕的部位通常是下眼瞼的黑眼圈、鼻翼兩側的泛紅、還有臉上其他的瑕疵青春痘、痘疤之類的,如果膚況很好,有時候其實不用遮瑕的!

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步驟3. 蜜粉定妝 . Foundation Setting with Powder

看你想要的妝感,來決定要步要用蜜粉,通常我都選擇用無色的蜜粉來定妝。

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步驟4. 修容/ 打亮 . Contouring & Highlighting

修容簡單來說就是兩件事:打陰影+打亮!
>> 超簡單!! 1分鐘心機立體小臉光影修容!<<

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步驟5. 畫眼影 . Eye Shadow Application

畫眼影是很自由的,顏色、質地都可以自由搭配、自由發揮,就是注意一件事,如果有膏狀和粉狀的眼影要上,得先上膏狀的喔!
來看經典款的 >> Everyday Makeup 百搭眼妝一次就上手!<<

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步驟6. 畫眼線 . Eye Liner Drawing

眼線也是很自由!這篇是 >> 派對眼線特集 <<,告訴你眼線的特別畫法!
還有眼線筆變眼影的暈染技巧 >> 一支眼線筆搞定小煙燻眼妝! <<

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基本 RGB

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步驟7. 畫眉毛 . Eye Brow Drawing

各位有發現我把眉毛放在眼妝之後嗎?我覺得眉毛得形狀長度、顏色深淺,是要隨著眼妝做搭配的,譬如一個淡妝,我可以給它一個平眉;一個拉長眼線煙燻妝,我也可以把眉毛加深、拉長一點,之類之類的 。

步驟8. 睫毛膏 . Mascara Application

來來來,睫毛膏之前也卸得很詳細哩
>> 睫毛膏這樣選!Mascara Wand <<
還有,睫毛膏得之前和之後,別忘了夾睫毛,使用睫毛夾的小撇步請看
>> 睫毛捲翹好簡單-吹風機 v.s.睫毛夾!<<

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In 12 +13

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步驟9. 上腮紅 . Applying Blush on the Cheeks

腮紅也是要留到最後再決定的一項,看整體妝感再選擇哪個色系的腮紅,腮紅的位置、深淺。
你知道>> 唇膏也可以當作膏狀腮紅 <<嗎!!

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In 12 +13

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步驟10. 塗口紅 & 步驟11. 唇蜜 . Lipstick & Lipgloss

先口紅後唇蜜,發現我對口紅有特別偏愛,
經典不敗 >> 紅唇妝! 四個步驟持久飽和!
清新感 >> 朝氣橘色唇膏一次就上手!
可愛系 >> 粉紅咬唇妝!Pinky Lips
酷酷的 >> 秋冬感紫紅莓唇!

就這樣啦! That’s it!

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Instagram & Twitter @tommybeautypro

Instagram & Twitter @tommybeautypro

Don’t forget to enter your e-mail at the right sidebar to follow Tommy Beauty Pro blog for more updates on beauty / fashion / lifestyle posts! You can also find me at Instagram & Twitter @tommybeautypro. 若想不定期收到部落格的發文,可以在部落格的右上角空白格填入你的電郵地址,也記得在IG上面追蹤我(@tommybeautypro)精彩的生活喔!

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Please click here and “LIKE” Tommy’s Make-up Artist Fan Page on Facebook!

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Makeup 101: Color Theory & Make-up Artistry │ 彩妝色彩學

5 Jan
Makeup 101: Colour Theory & Make-up Artistry by Tommy Beauty Pro

Makeup 101: Colour Theory & Make-up Artistry by Tommy Beauty Pro

With colors you can set a mood, attract attention, or make a statement. There is psychology behind colorsthey tell stories. By selecting the right color scheme, you can create an ambiance of elegance, warmth or tranquility, or you can convey an image of playful youthfulness.

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As a make-up artist, you are working with products, tools, colors, textures, shapes, and human faces (bone structure) all the time. Because you are an artist, you must have a good sense in coloring, so you can color match correctly & create the best color selection/scheme for your clients.

In this beauty blog post, you will learn some basics in color theory through the study of color wheel, to understand how colors can work effectively on your application as a make-up artist, and my make-up artist pro tips on how you can make the theory work effectively into the application.

The topics includes:

  • Color Theory
  • The Color Wheel: Primary, Secondary (or Intermediate), Tertiary
  • Warm & Cool Colors
  • Skin Colors (with Face Shade Finding Guide)
  • Skin Tones: Cool, Warm, Neutral
  • Analogous (Adjacent) Colors
  • Complimentary Colors (with How to Use Color Correctors Guide)
  • Neutral Colors: Black, White, Brown, Beige, Ivory & Cream (with Eye Brow Color Matching Chart)
  • Monochromatic Colors
  • Other Colors Terminology: Hue, Tint, Shade, Tone, Value, Intensity (Saturation)
  • Quick Color Reference Guide

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Color Theory

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Color Theory . the Art of Beauty

Color is the perceptual characteristic of light described by a color name. Specifically, color is light, and light is composed of many colors—those we see are the colors of the visual spectrum: red, orange, yellow, green, blue, and violet. Objects absorb certain wavelengths and reflect others back to the viewer. We perceive these reflected wavelengths as color.

Color theory: in the visual arts is practical guidance to color mixing and the visual impacts of color combinations. A make-up artist should understand the Basics of Color Theory in order to know how colors work with each other, and how one color will influence another by placing it next to, or on top of each other, or even how the color will result in when you mix them together.

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MUFE Artist Shadow - Color Schematics

Artist Shadows – Color Schematics | Make Up For Ever

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As a make-up artist, you will always have clients ask you: “What colors look best on me?” or “How do I find the best foundation shade?” You know the answer will be different on each individual because each of us is unique in our own way, and we create the best color scheme to compliment, coordinate or match the desired look. Thus, you must have an understand about basic color theory in order to make a good judgement call on the colors for you & your clients.

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colorful_eye_shadows_cosmetics

Make-up Artist vs. Make-up Applicator

By understanding color theory and knowing how to apply the theory onto human facial canvas effectively, will set you apart from being just a make-up applicator!

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The Color Wheel

Color Wheel

Color Wheel

To help us understand the basics of color theory, we need a color wheel. Color Wheel is a visual aid in helping us understand the principles of color and the color theory.

The color wheel is divided into three categories: PrimarySecondary (or Intermediate), and Tertiary

  • Primary: the three primary colors are: redyellow and blue. These colors are considered to be foundation colors because they are used to create all other colors.
  • Secondary (or Intermediate): by combining two of the primary colors, three secondary colors are formed. For example, when you mix red with yellow, you will get an orange color. The Secondary colors are: orangegreen and violet
  • Tertiary: the six tertiary colors are made by combining a primary and an adjacent secondary color. These colors are: yellow – orange, orange – red, red – violet, violet – blue, blue – green, and green – yellow.

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Warm & Cool Colors

Color Wheel: Warm & Cool Colors

Color Wheel: Warm & Cool Colors

The color wheel can be divided into warm and cool colors. By understanding the differences of warm & cool colors, it will help you better in foundation & concealer color matching on different color skin tones.

Warm Colors

Warm Color Spectrum

  • Warm colors are bright, passionate and energetic, and tend to be eye-popping colors. Warm colors include: red, orange, and yellow, and variations of those three colors. 
  • In make-up artistry, reds can be both cool and warm. If the red is blue based (a red with purple or blue undertone), it is cool. If the red is orange based, it is warm. 
Cool Colors

Cool Color Spectrum

  • Cool colors give an impression of calm, and create a soothing impression. Cool colors include: violet, blue, and green.
  • In make-up artistry, the same theory applies with the color green. If a green has more gold/yellow undertone, then it is warm. If a green contains more blue undertone, then it is cool. Whenever most colors have a blue undertone, they will always be a cool color.

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Skin Colors

Skin Color

Skin Colors

  • Fair Skin–Light Ivory, Porcelain, Sand, Pale Peach Pink or slightly reddish (rosy) undertones
  • Medium Skin–Yellow, Gold, Beige, Natural, Red-Olive, Yellow-Green
  • Medium-Dark Skin–Honey, Cameo, Copper, Olive, Tan, Golden-Olive, Caramel
  • Dark Skin–Orange-Brown, Red-Brown, Walnut, Almond, Blue-Black, Ebony, Dark Chocolate
Bobbi Brown Face Shade Guide

Bobbi Brown Face Shade Guide

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Skintones

Different Skintone

Skintone Color & Shades

  • Cool Skintone – the skin has a little pink (rosiness) in their skin. They tend to burn easily under the sun. People who look good in silver jewelry & accessories. When they wearing a cool undertone red lipstick, they look brightened up. Most of the time, their veins are in blue color (take a look at the wrist under natural light).

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  • Warm Skinton – the skin has a yellow undertone or golden-olive undertone. They tend to tan easily under the sun. People who look awesome in gold jewelry & accessories than silver. When they wearing a warm (orange) undertone red lipstick, they look brightened up. Most of the time, their veins are in green color (take a look at your wrist under natural light).

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  • Neutral Skintone–the skin has both pink and golden undertone. They look good in both gold or silver jewelry. Most of the time, their vain is in both blue-green color.

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Analogous Colors

M·A·C PRO Lip Palettes-Analogous Colors

Lip Palettes-Analogous Color Scheme | M·A·C PRO

Analogous (or Adjacent) Colors are created by using three (or more) colors that are next to each (side-by-side colors) on the color wheel.

Too Faced

“Boudoir Eye Palette”-Analogous Color Scheme | Too Faced

Tommy’s Make-up Artist Tips on Analogous Color:

By grouping analogous colors, it helps to create a better color blending effect, and it tends set a stronger mood. For example, to create that sexy & romantic feeling of eye make-up design (eg. boudoir eye palette as seen in the image above), by grouping the cool colors (plum, pink, mauve, plus some neutral colors) together, you can easily achieve that romantic bedroom color scheme for the desired boudoir eye makeup look.

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Complimentary Colors

Complimentary & Analogous Colors

Complimentary & Analogous Colors

Complementary color schemes are created by combining colors from opposite sides of the color wheel. They bring out each other, they make a visual contrast, thus both colors appear stronger against each other.

Complementary Color Make-up Look

Complementary Color Eye Make-up Look

Tommy’s Make-up Artist Tips on Complementary Color:

If someone has blue eyes, by using gold/bright yellow eye shadow colors on that person, it will amplify the blueness of her eyes; in other words, the gold eye shadow colors will make her blue eyes stand out more than any other colors!

Complementary Color Make-up Look

Complementary Color Make-up Look

Make-up Artist Tips on Complementary Color:

This color theory also applies by wearing a mossy green color eye shadow, and a bright red lipstick. The result of that complimentary color scheme can look nothing but strikingly beautiful.

Lise Watier: Portfolio Professional Correctors Palette

Portfolio Professional Corrector Palettes | Lise Watier Cosmetics

Tommy’s Make-up Artist Tips on Concealer & Color Correcting:

When you mix complimentary colors together (eg. mix red and green), they will combine to produce a neutral gray. It doesn’t mean you want to produce gray color on your face, it just means you will use other color(s) to get rid of (or cancel out) the color you do not like on your skin.

Color Theory in Color Correction

Color Theory in Color Correction

This theory is widely used for color correcting on the face and under eye concealing. For the face, many people like to use color correctors (similar to using shading & high lighting technique), CC Cream (color control cream) or with colored face primers to color correct.

Personally, I think it’s best applied for Under-Eye Concealer Application—if someone has a purple under-eye that you want to conceal, for the best result, use a concealer with yellow undertone, OR use a yellow color corrector to neutralize the purple under-eye first, then use a concealer on top to match the person’s natural skintone.

The same theory works for people who have lots of dark blue under-eye color (which is often found in darker, brownish skintone), it is best to use an orange color corrector (or a mix of orange & ocher colors) first to neutralize the dark blue under-eye, then use a concealer on top to match the person’s natural skintone.

Using color correcting in the under-eye area effectively with the proper method & color, it will bring a nice radiant & lifting effect on the make-up look!

Color Corrector Guide

How to Use Color Corrector Guide

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Neutral Colors

Neutral Colors

Neutral Colors

In color theory, a neutral color that is neither warm nor cool. Neutral colors are classy, sophisticated, and extremely wearable. They’re commonly worn on its own, or combined with brighter accent colorsthey can easily be matched with every color. The meanings and impressions of neutral colors are much more affected by the colors that surround them than are warm and cool colors.

  • Black is the strongest of the neutral colors. On the positive side, it’s commonly associated with power, elegance, and formality. On the negative side, it can be associated with evil, death, and mystery.
  • White is at the opposite end of the spectrum from black, but like black, it can work well with just about any other color. White is often associated with purity, cleanliness, and virtue. In the West, white is commonly worn by brides on their wedding day. White is associated with goodness, and angels are often depicted in white.
  • Brown is associated with the earth, wood, and stone. It’s a completely natural color and a warm neutral. Brown can be associated with dependability and reliability, with steadfastness, and with earthiness. It can also be considered dull.
  • Beige is somewhat unique in the color spectrum, as it can take on cool or warm tones depending on the colors surrounding it. It has the warmth of brown and the coolness of white, and, like brown, is sometimes seen as dull. It’s a conservative color in most instances, and is usually reserved for backgrounds. It can also symbolize piety.
  • Ivory and Cream are sophisticated colors, with some of the warmth of brown and a lot of the coolness of white. They’re generally quiet, and can often evoke a sense of history. Ivory is a calm color, with some of the pureness associated with white, though it’s a bit warmer.

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Neutral Color Eye Shadow Palettes by Urban Decay

NAKED – Neutral Color Eye Shadow Palettes | Urban Decay

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You will be surprised that the most universal colors that work for all skin tones are actually the taupe / earthy tone colors. Why? Because “the meanings and impressions of neutral colors are much more affected by the colors that surround them than are warm and cool colors”.

Thus, you will find almost every make-up artist has a neutral color eye shadow palette which contains multiple shades of white, taupe, beige, brown, grey and black colors all in one palette. They are the mostly used colors, and they tend to create the most wearable make-up that suits with all skin tone/colors.

Tommy’s Make-up Artist Tips on Neutral Colors:

Nude & Neutral colors are eternal fashion staples that simply never go out of trend.

By having a palette of neutral colors as show above, you can easily achieve many Prime Looks (beauty make-up looks that is for everyday wear), as well, you can use the eye shadow colors to create  eye liners or fill-in the  eye brows to achieve a natural look.

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Neutral Color Eye Shadow Palettes by M·A·C Cosmetics

Neutral Color Eye Shadow Palettes | M·A·C Cosmetics

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For your references, here is a guide in helping you on how to choose the right Eye Brow Colors that Match the Hair Color accordingly:

Eye Brow Color Matching Guide

Eye Brow Color Matching Guide

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Monochromatic Colors

monochromatic-abstract-color-swirls

Monochromatic color schemes are made up of different tones, shades and tints within one hue. For example, a monochromatic scheme of the color blue would be the Blue Color Family ranging from the lightest sky blue, to a medium shade of ocean blue, to the darkest navy blue.

These are the simplest color schemes to create, as they’re all taken from the same hue.

Full Exposure Eye Shadow Color Shades | Smashbox

Full Exposure Eye Shadow Color Shades | Smashbox

Similar to the neutral colors we talked about earlier, we find in the cosmetics industry that the neural colors are the most universal colors make-up artists use for everyday on everyone; in addition, different shades of browns and grays in the monochromatic colors are often created in a variety of texture (matte, shimmer, velvet, cream) to produce a handy eye shadow palette for make-up artists to use.

Nude Make-up using Monochromatic Colors

裸妝 Nude Make-up using Monochromatic Colors

A beautiful face make-up can be achieved by using the monochromatic shades in: foundation, eye brows, eye shadow, blush, contour & highlight, and lip colors! A nude make-up look is often a good example of a monochromatic scheme–easy to create in terms of choosing colors to blend, and the effect is very pretty & classy.

Monochromatic colors are also often found in bridal make-up because it blends beautifully on different shades of one color family. If you are interested in this particular topic, please visit my other beauty blog on Beautiful Wedding Make-up Looks & Colour Scheme, you will see beautiful five color schemes  I created for the topic of bridal beauty make-up.

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Other Colors Terminology

Color and Hue

Color and Hue

Hue: the true color of primary colors mixed together, as well as the secondary and tertiary colors mixed together. These colors are basic and intense. Once you have the basic colors, you can adjust them by adding white or black or gray, changing the brightness and density of the colors. This is how you get pastel and muted colors.

Tint, Shade, Tone

Tint, Shade, Tone

Tint: made by adding white to a pure hue. So if you have an intense purple and add white, you’ll get lavender. If you have a bright orange-red and add white, you’ll get a warm orangey-coral.

Shade: made by adding black to a pure hue. If you have a bright red, and add a touch of black to it, you’ll get a deeper, richer red.

Tone: made by adding gray to a pure hue. Gray is a result of mixing complimentary colors together.

Value: the lightness or darkness of a color, as if on a scale from black to white. For instance, navy is a dark value of blue.

Intensity: (or saturation) is the brightness of a color, or put another way, it’s the force of the color. For example, a full force red or a full intensity red is hard to live with.

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Quick Color Reference Guide

M·A·C - Color Play

M·A·C – Color Play

A reference guide for the common meanings & psychological reactions to colors:

  • Red: Passion, Love, Anger, Power, Sexy
  • Orange: Energy, Happiness, Vitality, Halloween
  • Yellow: Happiness, Hope, Bright, Summer
  • Green: New Beginnings, Abundance, Nature, Growing
  • Blue: Calm, Responsible, Sadness/Depression, Winter
  • Pink: Sweet, Lovely, First Love, Flowers
  • Purple: Creativity, Royalty, Wealth, Romance
  • Black: Mystery, Elegance, Evil
  • Gray: Moody, Conservative, Formality, Dull
  • White: Purity, Cleanliness, Virtue, Light, Snow
  • Brown: Nature, Wholesomeness, Dependability, Autumn
  • Tan or Beige: Conservative, Piety, Dull
  • Cream or Ivory: Calm, Elegant, Purity

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color-theory-mac-liptensity-2016

M·A·C Liptensity Lipstick

 

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Blog ReferencesColor Theory for DesignersYouBeauty-Makeup Artist Basics: The Color Wheel

Thank you for reading my blog post, please also check out Tommy’s Professional Make-up Artist Portfolio!

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Instagram & Twitter @tommybeautypro

Instagram & Twitter @tommybeautypro

Don’t forget to enter your e-mail at the right sidebar to follow Tommy Beauty Pro blog for more updates on beauty / fashion / lifestyle posts! You can also find me at Instagram & Twitter @tommybeautypro. 若想不定期收到部落格的發文,可以在部落格的右上角空白格填入你的電郵地址,也記得在IG上面追蹤我(@tommybeautypro)精彩的生活喔!

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Related Blog Posts 延伸閱讀:

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Please click here and “LIKE” Tommy’s Make-up Artist Fan Page on Facebook!

Please click here and “LIKE” Tommy’s Make-up Artist Fan Page on Facebook!