Tag Archives: Chinese

Artistic Halloween 藝術萬聖鬼節 2014

11 Oct
Glam to Ghoul 2014!

Glam to Ghoul 2014!

Be inspired with the Halloween looks with this year’s Artistic Halloween face chart references from the Make Up For Ever cosmetics brand! I also included a YouTube video of a Zombie special F/X Make-Up Transformation by Hollywood make-up artist: Michael Mosher on LA Hairstylist Guy Tang.

For more stunning make-up looks, please make sure to check out one of the most popular blog posts in Tommy Beauty PRO’s: Halloween Make-up Look Inspirations, I have added more amazing looks in that post since the original one from last year. Let’s get prepared and do some make-up for Halloween this year with your artistic skills, ya all!

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今年的好萊塢鬼片看夠了嗎?想必妳也知道10月31日就是ㄧ年一度的萬聖鬼節了吧。每年到了這時侯,除了探訪驚悚的鬼屋,以及挨家挨戶去要糖(註 · Trick-or-Treat 不請客就搗亂-萬聖節前許多兒童穿著奇裝異服,挨戶索取糖果等時的手語,意思是如果不給,就要胡鬧)之外,妳還可以參考以下的藝術臉妝紙圖,來大大展開妳藝術+妝扮的天分,將自己化身打扮成另一個角色!當然,妳可以扮成美麗的公主、俏皮的精靈、魔法世紀裏的主角、恐怖的魔鬼、生氣活潑的動物、古裝片裏的疆屍、神話故事裏的仙佛,甚至是迪士尼卡通裏的人物,總之,萬聖鬼節就是要盡興的玩樂!

若妳還需要更多的萬聖鬼節(恐怖臉妝造型)的彩妝靈感,可以造訪我之前的 Halloween Make-up Look Inspirations 貼文;我還另外增加了一片由名好萊塢化妝師 Michael Mosher 的「陰屍」(如同吸血鬼或殭屍,歸類於不死生物)特效化妝 YouTube 作品影片,希望妳們會喜歡這些恐怖又有藝術的彩妝喔!

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Day of the Dead 活屍地獄

Day of the Dead

Day of the Dead 活屍地獄

Inspiration: Dia De Los Muertos

Our Day of the Dead lInspired by the Mexican Holiday “All Souls Day” (October 31st) where family and friends paint their faces with sugar skulls to honor the deceased. This look is sure to raise the dead and can include face or body art.

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Femme Fatale 致命美人

Femme Fatale

Femme Fatale 致命美人

Inspiration: Inspired by Film Noir Movies of the 1940’s and 50’s. This Full body makeup from another time, stylized with old Hollywood glamor, and a modern makeup twist.

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Life in Plastic 芭比娃娃

Life in Plastic

Life in Plastic 芭比娃娃

Inspiration:
Inspired by America’s Favorite fashion icon doll. Life in plastic is a character makeup that can include body art to transform you into a living, breathing doll.

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Duality 雌雄同體

Duality

Duality 雌雄同體

Inspiration: Play in the underworld with this gruesome beauty makeup for the undecided. It’s the perfect balance of glam and gore with one half of the face decaying, while the other half is beauty as usual. Cut this look off after the face or take it down the neck and onto the limbs to stop people dead in their tracks.

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Eternal Goddess 永遠的女神

Eternal Goddess

Eternal Goddess 永遠的女神

Inspired: Dipped in gold and draped in smoky eyes, awaken your inner divine deity with this alluring gilded look. You can include your face, neck, and body.  It’s all up to you and how far your goddess is willing to go.

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Darling Deer 親親小鹿

Darling Deer

Darling Deer 親親小鹿

Inspiration: Cute, sultry, and awe-inspiring is our Darling Deer look featuring our winged technique, contoured skin, and button nose. Turn heads and capture hearts with this crowd pleasing favorite.

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Get Skulled 骷髏頭

Get Skulled

Get Skulled

Inspiration: You’ll be bound for bones in this beloved creepy Halloween look featuring a skull face with hand and neck detail.  When in doubt, skull it out and don’t forget, this look can be done as elaborate or as subtle as you like.

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Medieval Princess 中世紀公主

Medieval Princess

Medieval Princess 中世紀公主

Inspiration: This majestic favorite will declare you are the bell of the ball. Her Royal Princess gone Warrior Princess is an ultra-feminine makeup featuring disheveled smoky eyes and a berry stained lip. This look is sure to sever heads and make the noblemen swoon.

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Creature of the Night 深夜怪物

Creature of the Night

Creature of the Night 深夜怪物

Inspiration:
Bewitching hour begins by the moonlight, collecting gazes and gaunts from innocent bystanders. This beauty look features stunning eyes, soft pastel skin, and gorgeously grey lips for a haunting appeal that demands attention.

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Recently Deceased 死人

Recently Deceased

Recently Deceased 死人

Inspiration: Re-animate your soul and walk amongst the living in this ghoulish makeup inspired by the undead. Featuring decaying flesh and a rotting mouth and nose, you will be sure to scare the death out of all your friends.

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VIDEO: Zombie Make-Up Transformation by MUA Michael Mosher 陰屍特效化妝

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Instagram & Twitter @tommybeautypro

Instagram & Twitter @tommybeautypro

Don’t forget to enter your e-mail at the right sidebar to follow Tommy Beauty Pro blog for more updates on beauty / fashion / lifestyle posts! You can also find me at Instagram & Twitter @tommybeautypro.

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Related Blog Posts in Tommy Beauty Pro:

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Please click here and “LIKE” Tommy’s Make-up Artist Fan Page on Facebook!

Please click here and “LIKE” Tommy’s Make-up Artist Fan Page on Facebook!

Change Your Look Fast: 5 Quick Makeup Fixes

8 May

 改頭換面:快速改妝的5個彩妝秘訣

PHOTOGRAPHY: MODEL BY DALLAS CUROW; PRODUCT BY CARLO MENDOZA

PHOTOGRAPHY: MODEL BY DALLAS CUROW; PRODUCT BY CARLO MENDOZA

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When life gets busy, it’s easy for a makeup routine to become, well, routine. We fall back on our tried and true methods and take the easy route just make it out the door on time! Luckily, we’re here to help you out of even the deepest beauty rut with a few tiny tweaks that make a big impact.

From brightening up a bold lip to switching up your bronzer application, these quick makeup fixes will breathe some new life into your daily beauty regimen without stealing valuable time.

當生活變得忙碌時,每天的日常彩妝很容易就會變成例行公事,而我們也就習慣性地畫回那一成不變的妝。很幸運地,我們在這裡幫大家整理出來小小調整過的美妝技巧,效果絕對會讓妳的妝容煥然一新。

從如何將高調大膽的唇色提亮增加光采,至古銅色修容彩妝品的使用技巧,妳在日常彩妝上會因為這篇文章教妳的快速改妝秘訣,能有新的驚喜,而且這些技巧在使用上也不會太花時間喔。

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PHOTOGRAPHY AND MAKEUP BY DALLAS CUROW; MODEL MAGGIE/THE ROCK AGENCY

Photo & Makeup by Dallas Curow; Model: Maggie/The Rock Agency

Makeup Quick Fix 1: Brighten Up a Bold Lip

Here’s a simple way to give your bold lip a 3D effect. Start by applying your favorite lipstick as usual, using a lip brush if you want extra precision.

To add fullness and dimension, add a lighter color from the same color family to the center of your lower lip. To intensify the effect, add a little to the center of your upper lip as well. To keep the effect, try to avoid pressing or rubbing your lips together in order to keep the colors from mixing.

快速改妝秘訣1:提亮增加高調大膽唇色的光采

這是一個如何讓妳大膽唇色增加3D立體效果的簡單方法。首先按照妳平常的方法塗上妳最喜愛的口紅,若要將唇妝上得更細致些,一定要搭配唇刷來上唇色。

要增加唇色的豐滿度和立體感,在下唇的中心部位加上另一同色系列較淺的顏色。若要更加強立體的效果,在上唇的中心部位也加上一些淺色。為了保持整體的效果,盡量避免上下雙唇相抿而造成唇色混著。

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PHOTOGRAPHY AND MAKEUP BY DALLAS CUROW; MODEL MAGGIE/THE ROCK AGENCY

Photo & Makeup by Dallas Curow; Model: Maggie/The Rock Agency

Makeup Quick Fix 2: Tightline Your Eyes

Tightlining your eyes is a great way to add subtle, sexy definition in just a few seconds— especially when your regular mascara is just not cutting it. Start by curling your eyelashes to open up your eyes.

Using a waterproof eyeliner, gently apply it to your waterline. Blink and squinch your eyes a few times to soften the look. Apply it all the way around for a more noticeable effect, or just do the upper waterline for a cool, no-makeup effect that magically thickens the look of your lashes.

快速改妝秘訣2:隱形內眼線

若妳平常使用的睫毛膏呈現的效果不佳時,「隱形內眼線」是一個在幾秒鐘能夠讓妳的眼妝增加自然細緻又帶有媚眼神的絕佳技巧。首先先使用睫毛夾將妳的睫毛夾捲翹,這會讓妳眼型放大、更加炯炯有神。

使用防水眼線筆,輕輕將其在妳的下眼瞼畫一條眼線。將眼睛眨幾次,這會讓眼線的線條更加柔和自然。若要有較明顯的深邃眼神效果,在眼睛上下的眼瞼都描繪眼線;或著妳要呈現出無妝容又俐落的效果,就只要在上內眼瞼(睫毛根部與其中間空隙處)補滿眼線,就會製造眼睛與睫毛一體成形的明眸。

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PHOTO & MAKEUP BY DALLAS CUROW; MODEL MAGGIE/THE ROCK AGENCY

Photo & Makeup by Dallas Curow; Model: Maggie/The Rock Agency

Makeup Quick Fix 3: Contour

With a few swipes of a single product, you can instantly define your bone structure. Start by setting your foundation with a translucent powder to create a smooth canvas.

To contour, take a cool brown, matte eyeshadow and buff it under your cheekbones, on your temples and under your jawline using a slanted contouring brush or small blush brush. For a bit more definition, shade lightly along the sides of your nose with a fluffy eyeshadow brush.

快速改妝秘訣3:輪廓修容

只要使用一項彩妝品在臉上揮一揮,妳馬上就會有根據臉骨結構而顯現出的臉部立體修容。首先先將上好底妝的臉,刷上一層薄薄的透明定妝粉使底妝服貼成為一幅平滑乾淨的畫布。

接下來要輪廓修容的部分是使用一個偏冷色系、霧狀的棕色眼影,用斜角輪廓刷( 或小型腮紅刷)以打蠟時所運用的旋轉方式移動刷子,將顏色上在臉部雙頰顴骨的下方、兩側的太陽穴以及下巴顎線部位。若要使輪廓修容效果更凹凸有致,也可以用蓬鬆的眼影刷輕輕沿著鼻子的兩側再打上些立體「 陰影」。

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PHOTO & MAKEUP BY DALLAS CUROW; MODEL MAGGIE/THE ROCK AGENCY

Photo & Makeup by Dallas Curow; Model: Maggie/The Rock Agency

Makeup Quick Fix 4: Change Up Your Bronzer Application

The most common way to apply bronzer is with a big fluffy brush, the conventional wisdom being that a larger brush better diffuses the product. While true, a large brush also means less control. For a more precise application, use a small stippling brush or fluffy eyeshadow brush and apply your bronzer first in specific areas. Draw two inverted triangles on the apples of your cheeks, then apply small streaks across the top of your forehead, along the sides of your nose, and even in the crease of your eyelid.

Then using a medium-sized brush, blend out the product for a natural, sun-kissed look that still has definition. Bonus Tip: use a cream or mousse formula of bronzer for the easiest blending.

快速改妝秘訣4:古銅色修容彩妝品的使用技巧

我們一般使用古銅色修容粉餅就是用一支大蜜粉刷將粉餅刷在臉上,因為傳統理論上來說大支的蜜粉刷比較容易將彩妝品均勻延展開來。話雖如此,大支的蜜粉刷有時也較難操作使用。為了要讓妝上得更細致,首先使用一支小型的鬆粉刷或蓬鬆的眼影刷在以下指定的部位塗上古銅色修容彩妝品:臉部雙頰上畫倒三角形,額頭上方畫一條橫線,沿著鼻子的兩側以及眼窩部位都各畫線條( 如上圖1)。

接著使用一支中型的刷子將畫上古銅修容彩妝的部位均勻推開來,它呈現出來的妝容會像是艷陽曬過的自然仿曬效果。彩妝技巧加強版:使用霜狀或慕絲狀的古銅色修容產品會更加容易均勻推色

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Photo & Makeup by Dallas Curow; Model: Maggie/The Rock Agency

Photo & Makeup by Dallas Curow; Model: Maggie/The Rock Agency

Makeup Quick Fix 5: Eyeshadow Highlight

Here’s a super simple way to brighten up your usual eyeshadow look. Start by applying your base colour across the lid, using a matte product.

Instead of highlighting the inner corner of your eye, apply a light-reflecting shade to the center of your eyelid. As you go about your day, every time you blink, the light will hit the shimmer on your lid, giving your eyes a little extra sparkle.

快速改妝秘訣5:眼影打亮

這是一個超簡單的方式,能迅速提亮妳日常眼部彩妝的光采。 首先使用一支霧狀的眼影塗抹在眼皮上。

與其在眼睛內角部位打亮,在眼皮中間的部位抹上具有光澤效果的淡色眼影,每當妳一眨眼,光與你的打亮眼影即會產生出耀眼星燦之美。

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Instagram & Twitter @tommybeautypro

Instagram & Twitter @tommybeautypro

Don’t forget to enter your e-mail at the right sidebar to follow Tommy Beauty Pro blog for more updates on beauty / fashion / lifestyle posts! You can also find me at Instagram & Twitter @tommybeautypro.

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Related blog posts in Tommy Beauty Pro:

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Please click here and “LIKE” Tommy’s Make-up Artist Fan Page on Facebook!

Please click here and “LIKE” Tommy’s Make-up Artist Fan Page on Facebook!

From Runway to Vanity: the 6 Must-Know Summer Make-up Key Words

5 May

從T台到化妝台必知的6大夏妝關鍵字

T台上的流行與色彩,總是會引起、激發出彩妝上的靈感與發想,但秀場妝容要如何轉換成為日常妝感,看看怎麼見招拆招。
The trends and colors of fashion runways are always great inspirations and stimulation for make-up looks, but how do you translate the fashion runway looks into your daily make-up routines in the summer?

alberta-ferretti-spring-2012-dewy-makeup

Vionnet Backstage at Paris Fashion Week Spring Summer 2013 Collections

estee lauder idealist  even skintone illuminator 21. 肌膚除了透,還要淨、更要光

夏天底妝贏在輕薄、透亮,妝前保養很重要!美容專家柳燕說到:「透過指壓的淋巴按摩,特別在於耳朵下方、兩頰、太陽穴等位置可促進循環、趕走壞氣色。」啟動肌膚循環後,可擦上具潤色效果的防曬隔離霜,做到第一層膚色修飾,接下來使用粉底量越少越好,以眼下、兩頰三角區為主,其餘用蜜粉輕輕掃過,妳會發現粉量越少的輕盈底妝,無須太擔心脫妝問題。

  • 夏天妝前修飾乳很重要,Dior韓國特約彩妝師Sung Ji-ahn建議,「擔心毛孔粗大,先擦上可讓毛孔柔焦的修飾乳,想要透亮,可帶有珠光效果的飾底乳。」
  • 全臉使用粉底絕對會讓妝脫的嚴重,上粉底前,先用遮瑕膏解決黑眼圈或膚色不均問題,再刷上淡淡的底妝。
  • 海棉或粉底刷是夏天輕薄底妝的好幫手,只要將粉底用量集中在臉中央、鼻翼兩側,指腹無法做到的輕薄與拋光效果,海棉或粉底刷都能輕鬆達到。

1. Pure Skin with Radiance

The importance of summer base make-up is all about sheerness, radiance and preparation of skin.  “Through massage in the area just underneath the ears, cheeks and temples with your fingertips, it helps to promote circulation of energy,” says beauty expert Yan Liu. After the facial massage, you can apply tinted sun blocks, it helps to balance your skin’s color correction; then use a light amount of foundation focusing just in the area underneath the eyes and on the cheeks. Finish the rest of the face with a dust of powder, the less the powder, the sheerer the base make-up, and you don’t have to worry much about make-up wearing off during the day.

  • “Primer is especially important for summer make-up,” says Sung Ji-ahn, Appointed Make-up Artist for Dior (Korea). “If you have larger pores, use primers that can minimize the appearance of pores; if you want radiance on the skin, you can use primers with glowing pigments.”
  • If you use foundation all over your face, you will have the problem of make-up wearing off during the day. Before you apply foundation, first use concealer to cover under eye darkness or other pigment discolorations, and then apply foundation lightly with a foundation brush.
  • Make-up sponges and foundation brushes are your best friends for summer’s sheer make-up application. Apply foundation mostly in the center of your face and both sides of the nose, then blend it with a sponge or brush, this will give you a result of light and sheer foundation effects that can’t be achieved by using your fingertips.

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blue eyeshadow

BlueEyes2. 神秘藍眼影最夯

對於藍眼影總是有種害怕出錯的疑慮存在,不過這可是今夏潮流,建議可使用具海軍藍色調較為深沉的眼影,取代天空藍、淺藍色系,妳會發現原來藍色眼影讓眼睛深邃的效果還不錯。

2. Mystical Blue Eye Shadow is IN

We always worry about making mistakes when using a blue color eye shadow, but blue color is actually IN this summer. We recommend darker shades of blue such as navy blue to replace lighter shades such as sky blue, you will find blue eye shadow will give you a deep-set eye effect.

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Dior 2014 SS L-or Show-07

Christian-Dior-beauty-fall-couture-2013

3. 閃不停的金屬光

不要害羞,夏天好好「往臉上貼金」!不過要怎麼貼的漂亮,秘訣就在使用金色眼影或膏狀眼影,均勻的塗抹在眼褶上,單一色系在刷上漆黑的睫毛,金與黑的完美結合,漂亮!

3. Gold Bling-Blings

Don’t be shy to use gold colors on your face this summer! How to make it look pretty? The trick is to apply a gold color eye shadow (powder or cream formula) evenly on the eyelid, then brush mascara onto the lashes in pitch-black, the combo of gold and black: beauty!

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Graphic Eye Liner Looks

chanel-backstage-beauty-Cover-600x400

4. 創意十足趣味眼線

可用眼線膠筆或眼線液筆畫出不論是20年代或60年代誇張或帶有魅惑感的眼線線條,當然妳也可多練練秀場上的創意貓眼,會有意想不到、增加大眼的眼神效果。

4. Creative Eye Lines Shapes

Use an eye pencil or liquid eye liner to draw liners that look like the 20’s or the 60’s style to get full dramatic, alluring effect. Of course you can also practice drawing that catty, feline flick eyeliners as seen on the fashion runways, and you will be surprised with the effect of the enlarged eye looks.

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michael-kors-6

5. 光澤紅暈雙頰最迷人

模擬運動完後散發出的自然紅暈光澤最讓人愛,所以可看到所推出的夏妝新腮紅,以漸層感的腮紅盤,刷出自然的暈染感,不會假假的、還會被人稱讚氣色怎麼那麼好!

  • 腮紅膏也有異曲同工的效果,彩妝師Vincent建議,沾取腮紅膏可先用在手背上沾一沾,再用指腹輕拍,從笑肌往外推開。
  • 額頭中央、鼻樑中間與下巴也可沾取一點腮紅膏,創造曬傷感。

5. Glowing Red Cheeks are Charming

You know that red cheeks you get after you exercise? Yes, that’s exactly the red cheek color palette for this summer; it gives a gradient of red without looking fake. Natural glow!

  • “Cream blush will help you achieve the same effect,” says make-up artist Vincent. “Take some cream blush on the back of your hand, pad it lightly on the apple of your cheek and blend it outward.”
  • You can also use a tiny bit of cream blush and apply on the center of your forehead, bridge of your nose and the chin area, it creates a sunburn effect appearance.

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orange-lipstick

Cara-Delevigne-Orange-Lip-High-

6. 啾出鮮嫩多汁的螢光橘唇

螢光橘唇可說是抓住眼光的利器!與過去的橘色唇膏不同之處,螢光色調的橘色亮度與飽和度更高,對於提亮膚色效果也更好,不論哪種膚色都好駕馭。

  • 想復古味重一點,那就用唇線筆加強唇形;融合一點霧面唇膏也不錯。
  • 使用這類亮色唇膏,平常護唇的保養動作,做得徹底點,唇紋才不會出現過深問題。

6. Kisses with Neon Orange Lip Color

Neon orange color lips will put you in the center of attention! Unlike the orange color lipsticks used in the past, neon shades give better effects in brightness and intensity; in addition, it also helps to brighten up your skin, regardless of your skin color.

  • Retro? Use lip pencil to emphasize the contour of your lip shape, and it’s not a bad idea to mix a matte texture lipstick.
  • When using brighter lipstick color like this, it is essential to take care of your lips on a regular basis, so the lines on the lip surface can be diminish.

 

Source: VOGUE (Taiwan)

Chinese-English Translation: TommyBeautyPro

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Instagram & Twitter @tommybeautypro

Instagram & Twitter @tommybeautypro

Related blog posts in Tommy Beauty Pro:

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Please click here and “LIKE” Tommy’s Make-up Artist Fan Page on Facebook!

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Dick Page: The Make-up Step-by-Step on Magazine Editorials are Meaningless

26 Apr

makeup artist Dick Page for Shiseido (2)

彩妝大師Dick Page的化妝3觀點:「雜誌上的彩妝步驟很沒意義。」

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就像超模何穗Sui He所說,「我真的覺得資生堂Shiseido國際櫃時尚色繪彩粧總監Dick Page很隨意。譬如我們畫口紅時都用一點點,小心翼翼的,他不是,他會將好幾種顏色的口紅拿在手上調一調,變出新的顏色,或是將好幾個顏色融在一起搭出新的層次感。我都稱他魔法師,一直變出新的東西來,一副無所謂的樣子,卻很有創造力,是個天馬行空的藝術家。」

“I truly think Shiseido’s International Artistic Director Dick Page’s style is very casual. When we wear lipsticks, we always try to do it very carefully by using it just a little bit, but he doesn’t do it like that. He would always create a brand new color by blending many different lipstick colors on his hand, or mixing them to create a new layering of color. I call him the Magician because he always creates new things in an effortless way, he is full of creativity, and he is a true abstract artist,” says Chinese supermodel Sui He.

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Dick Page and Sui He

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這位彩妝魔法師Dick Page為資生堂Shiseido國際櫃時尚色繪彩粧2014春妝系列打造全新的尚質亮眼柔焦筆、尚質瓷釉蜜唇彩,並為大受好評的尚質瓷釉蜜唇膏、尚質晶漾眼采霜增添6款新色,這些顏色都是Dick Page平時繪畫創作,或是在旅途上拍照,特別有感的色彩。Dick Page大力推薦眼影霜和唇彩,並且建議平時挑選妝容顏色時,先挑選唇彩的顏色,再依照唇妝來決定臉上其他部位顏色的選擇。淺色的眼影霜用手指指腹就可以直接上妝,深色的則使用刷具來顯現飽和色彩。

For Shiseido’s 2014 Spring Color Collection, make-up magician Dick Page created brand new products Sheer Eye Zone Corrector and Lacquer Gloss, he also decorated the collection by adding 6 new colors in Lacquer Gloss and Shimmering Cream Eye Color products. The colors were inspired from Page’s own painting creations as well as pictures taken during his traveling. Page highly recommends the cream eye colors and lip colors. When deciding on the make-up looks, he also suggests choosing the lips color first, and then decide other colors for the face accordingly. You can use the tip of your finger to apply light shades of the cream eye color, and use brush application for the darker shades for color intensity.

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Shiseido Cosmetics 2014-03

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談到彩妝的創作靈感,Dick Page有3個觀點要告訴大家:

Speaking of make-up artistry creation, Page shares his 3 views:

1. 化妝沒有固定的步驟

對我來說,每次的上妝和卸妝都是不同的感受,像我在維多利亞的秘密Victoria’s Secret內衣大秀為後台模特而化妝時,是將唇膏當頰彩使用,最後才上底妝。化妝不該有制式的規定,就像煮飯的時候,你邊品嘗邊加入調味料般,哪裡少了什麼就補一點進去;或是像聽音樂的時候也沒有一定要聽到最後,你可以隨時切斷再跳到下一首。

1. Make-up Application Has No Set Steps

To me, it always feels different every time I apply or remove make-up. For example, when I worked backstage at the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show, I used lipstick as cheek colors on the models, and I applied foundation in the very last step of the make-up application. Make-up should not have a set routine just as if you are cooking, you would add seasonings as you cook, wherever is needed, you would add more seasoning; or it’s as if you are listening to music, you don’t have to listen the whole song until the end, you may fast forward to the next track whenever you like.

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Shiseido Cosmetics 2014-02

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2. 沒有所謂的彩妝重點

臉部是一個整體,當你在笑的時候,並不是只有嘴巴在動,而是整個五官表情都會牽連,眼睛也會笑,因此我沒有辦法說哪個五官是重點。之前也有人問過我相同的問題,我回答她說,你可以想像你的眼睛到餐廳,嘴巴到其他地方嗎?所以,化妝全臉都是重點,沒有分別。

2. There is No Focused Feature in Make-up

Face is a whole, when you smile, it’s not just the moth that is moving, all of your facial features are connected so your eyes smile too, thus I cannot tell you which of your facial feature is the most important focus for make-up. Someone had asked me a similar question before, I told her: “can you imagine your eyes are at the restaurant, and mouth in other places?” Therefore, all features of the face is the focus, there should be no differences.

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Shiseido Cosmetics 2014-04

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3. 不要跟隨潮流趨勢

因為每張臉都是不一樣的,對我來說雜誌上的彩妝步驟很沒意義,最好的方法就是嘗試,just play。化妝是好玩有趣的事情,我不喜歡趨勢這說法,彩妝應該是要能激發女人對色彩的喜好,了解自己的優點並找到最適合的,而不是專注在每季的流行。

3. Don’t Just Follow the Trend

Not all faces are the same, so the make-up step-by-step demonstration in magazine editorials are meaningless to me, “just play” with make-up is the best way to do it. Make-up is a very fun thing, I don’t particularly like to use “trend” when it comes to make-up. It should stimulate women’s preferences in color, to understand the best about themselves in order to find the most suitable products, but not to focus just on the trends every season.

 

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Shi He for Sheseidi

時尚色繪代言人中國黑馬超模─何穗:演繹春色眼唇之美

2013年春天,資生堂國際櫃時尚色繪系列首度啟用中國超模何穗,表現亮眼的超模何穗再度與資生堂國際櫃合作,展示2014春夏粧容。由資生堂國際櫃彩粧總監Dick Page及內部高層親自挑選的何穗,符合資生堂具現代感、國際感的審美標準。

何穗生於1990年,來自中國溫州,是近年中國竄起的超模之一,2011年秋冬時裝發表會上,成為首位為Ralph Lauren開場的亞裔模特兒,從此得到了國際間的關注。自此,她經常於紐約、倫敦、米蘭、巴黎伸展台上為時尚品牌走秀,諸如Ralph Lauren、Chanel、Tom Ford、Donna Karan、Michael Kors、Oscar de la Renta、Bottega Veneta、Dolce & Gabbana、Alexander McQueen、Lanvin、 Hermès、Jean Paul Gaultier、Christian Dior等知名精品品牌,更登上2012年美國內衣大廠「維多利亞的秘密」年度時裝秀伸展台。何穗事業版圖擴及全球,可在各國的時尚雜誌窺見她的身影,甚至中國Vogue、日本Vogue、W雜誌、V magazine、i-D等雜誌封面,以及Ralph Lauren、KARL by Karl Lagerfeld、Lane Crawford、H&M等平面廣告。她目前往返於紐約與北京兩地。

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Shiseido Makeup by Dick Page on Sui He – Soft 2014 Spring/Summer

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M·A·C 2012 Autumn/Winter Makeup Trend Report

26 Oct

M·A·C 2012 秋冬彩妝趨勢解析

文化融合、結構感與自我風格是2012秋冬趨勢最明白的詮釋。
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M·A·C 2012 Autumn/Winter Makeup Trend

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TREND REPORT

M·A·C Cosmetics, the professional makeup company and makeup artist brand, expresses its support of the fashion world by supporting makeup artists at over 100 shows during this year’s international Autumn/Winter Collections. Known for quality products and the expertise of the M·A·C PRO TEAM, M·A·C continues to be at the forefront of trends by working in the trenches with designers, creators and grassroots organizations.

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AUTUMN/WINTER 2012 TRENDS

THE WOMAN AND THE WORLD…Frills, fripperies, flirtatious fun have taken a step back this season, as beauty has pulled into line with fashion in its key proposal: the question of how a modern, intelligent, pulled together woman wants to look as she operates in the world today.

It’s pragmatic. It’s considered. And certainly aware that a real interest lies where world cultures come together. Hence a culturally diverse and dynamic mood underpins AW2012, with the craft and art of beauty being explored and celebrated in myriad takes on global makeup gestures. It’s not so much a culture clash as a cultural collaboration, about interpreting familiar beauty accents through international eyes. Less important than the specific origins of these looks (from ancient Japan to the Italian Renaissance, British beauties to Slavic maidens…) is the idea of a new vocabulary of beauty reference points that are truly global in their vision.

Equally important as a world view is a sense of structure. Whether that’s done by creating a compelling bone structureor by anchoring the face with an extremely tailored feature – a red lip, a graphic black eye, or a more masterful brow (the definitive feature of AW2012), these looks project a cleansed approach to glamour that is at once timeless yet uncompromisingly modern by virtue of the execution exhibiting an attitude of knowing, womanly strength.

Yet nothing about this beauty is unattainably hard or severe. This season’s femininity references a certain sense of the masculine (those straight brows and that sculpted bone structure), but we’ve moved on from the (now old) idea of the “androgynous”. Sure, the international woman of AW2012 is no champion of overt sexiness, but don’t equate her lack of purposeful provocation with looking boyish. AW2012 is very much about a woman, but one wise and masterful enough with her style to play with a more controlled contemporaneity.

Indeed, the passé pastiche of jet set, “expensive” style seems vulgar compared to something more authentic and real. “Luxury is not the same as ostentation,” confirms Lyne Desnoyers. “The opulence this season is in the details, which is, of course, the pure definition of chic.”… A WORLDLY WOMAN INDEED.

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今年不再拘泥於哪一個年代的特殊風格,對於妝容的特定起源(從古老日本到義大利文藝復興,從大不列顛美女到斯拉夫少女)也運用國際的眼光,來詮釋這些熟悉的美感,這不是文化衝突而是一種文化合作,一些具有全球視野的美麗參考點似乎已顯得不那麼重要了。如同一個世界的旅人,在旅遊時會有系統地拾取美麗元素的全球漫遊者,並不會特意模仿某個特定文化的確切彩妝,也並非文化模仿的彩妝拼湊品。

與世界觀同等重要的是結構感。無論是透過打造一個具衝突感的骨架結構或精雕細琢的五官  紅唇、生動的黑色眼妝或更具優越感的眉毛來達成,這些妝容都投射出一種展現魅力的乾淨手法,由於這樣的魅力確切展現出一種知性與女性深度的態度,因此一瞬間成為永恆,卻又堅決摩登到底。

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Sense + Sensibility

The question of quintessential beauty – what manner of makeup provides a prototype for a modern woman – is posed this season, with myriad looks taking a purely pragmatic approach to the solution. The answer?

Healthy, sensible, honed, balanced, understated, elegant, effortless and groomed… The new blueprints for contemporary makeup magnetize through their sheer beauty rather than any trickery, with a structure that is always sensible and sensitively applied (even when colours and textures project a more avant-garde edge). It’s a somewhat rural approach to city makeup. While the inspiration takes an equestrian, aristocratic, “country” angle, the impeccable application is definitely “town”. “I’m calling it Sense and Sensibility makeup,” explains Lyne Desnoyers.

“It’s about timeless classics done in a modern way – these are elements of makeup that never go out of fashion but simply get reinvented.” – Terry Barber, Director of Makeup Artistry for M·A·C Cosmetics

The perfect cleansing focus of a lip (make it nothing but a Russian red). The mastery of a gentle outdoors flush (must be seamless). Studies in what constitutes a modern bare face (p.s. it’s a fuller brow). Explorations in how to wear soft colour (cooler tones, subtler, fresher washes – a “Nordic approach to neutrals,” says Terry).

These looks ultimately carry a sophistication that elevates them beyond trend, becoming instead a new set of modern Classics.

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趨勢重點1 – 理性與感性

今年秋冬的趨勢其實就是要用理性的手法呈現女孩的真實面貌,不是把天生膚色完全覆蓋住,而是將膚質、膚色的特色凸顯出來,是感性的、非常有貴族氣息、經過精心設計的,但卻又感覺像是不經意完成有如天生膚質般,既不過亮也不粉霧,呈現出完美的自然肌膚紋理與保水度,但絕不是刻意噴水、加工打亮,或像修片般,就是要讓視覺和觸覺都一樣的完美,而且比前幾季都來得更技巧,並將所有細節表現得淋漓盡致,以一種健康的、經過琢磨的、平衡的、低調的、優雅的、不費力的薄透自然的美感來吸引眾人的目光。

整個妝容只以唇部做為唯一的焦點,使用展現女性魅力的經典顏色(紅、粉紅、玫瑰色而非前衛的橘紅、紫紅) ,以一種明顯但簡單純粹的方式看出風格的所在。這些妝容最終帶有一種讓它們超越彩妝趨勢的世故,反而成為一種新型態的現代經典。

設計師

Acne、Balmain、Carolina Herrera、Chalayan、Costello Tagliapietra、Damir Doma、Diane von Furstenberg、Giles、Marios Schwab、Monique Lhuillier、Nicole Farhi、Rick Owens、Ruffian、Simone Rocha。

M·A·C 資深彩妝師Think重點技法

今年秋冬利用了女性最性感的兩個重點來表現,肌膚與雙唇。先在肌膚上薄薄的刷上BB輕粉霜做肌膚的調色與修飾,並用190粉底刷沾取極少量的遮瑕膏,輕輕勻再額頭、T字及眼下三角區域。並用完美潤澤粉餅或是柔礦迷光雙效蜜粉底均勻的輕刷在肌膚上,創造第二層肌膚質感!完美的唇型只有兩種顏色,絕對自然的唇色或是性感飽和的紅色,秘訣就在上唇妝前,先利用妝前潤色打亮筆修飾唇邊,讓唇型立體,即可輕易幫助創造立體的唇型描繪。

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ROAM-ANTIQUE

A globally influenced independent woman is channelled this season, but think less “boho- festival goer” and more “grown-up gypsy”. There’s a certain eccentricism, but this world traveller is honed, not haphazard. “The bohemian spirit of this season has nothing to do with grungy girls,” agrees Lyne Desnoyers. “It’s more about the fantasy of an elegant eccentric, a woman who is ornate yet has exquisite taste.” “She’s a global wanderer who organically picks up on beauty elements during her travels, she hasn’t done a lot of homework on how to emulate the exact makeup of a particular culture,” explains Gordon Espinet of the fact that these looks are not culture-cloned makeup pastiches.

From stained soulful tints through to mesmerizing jewel-like metallics, it’s a trend that focuses on playing with the proportion and depth of an eye (perhaps bringing in a rustically tinted lip for balance). Call it a contemporary rethink on how to do “smoky”.

“Fashion wants to revisit a smoldery eye, but the issue is in devising one that isn’t trashy or retro,” ponders Terry Barber. Hence the focus on a mascara-less lash, and colours with a more antiquated patina and diffuse application than those dripping in jet-setting luxuriousness. Key shades? Those that pull inspiration from roaming the world – desert rocks, sunset and sepia stains, driftwood browns, weathered tans, sand, minerals, pastoral shades of plum and cranberry, metallic greys from asphalt and concrete through to slate and charcoal – all are employed to give a soulful depth to lids and lash lines. Ultimately, this beauty trend parallels fashion’s worldly-aware direction in considering how a nomadic lifestyle can influence the way you pull yourself together…feel your inner free spirit!

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趨勢重點2 – 漫遊古感

本季的異國風情不要邋遢的懶女孩,而比較是具有優雅古怪的夢幻,一個裝飾華麗卻又有精緻品味的女人。流行重新回到煙燻眼妝,但問題是要設計出一個不彆腳、不復古的煙燻眼,因此妝容的焦點是少刷點睫毛膏的睫毛,與帶有比那些名媛式的奢華更多古色與擴散妝效的色彩。

顏色呢?將傳統的秋季顏色再重新加工,透過加入金屬感,注入光澤感,將傳統秋天的質感再重新加工。那些從漫遊世界中得到靈感的色澤沙漠岩石、日落與烏賊的色斑、浮木的棕色、風化的棕褐色、沙子、礦物、梅子與蔓越莓的田園色澤、從瀝青與混凝土到石板與木炭的金屬灰全都被用來為眼皮與眼線增添一種精神上的深邃感。

無暇的嘴唇有加了些灰色進去,也加了些酒紅色,所以感覺起來像是將暖色系浸入冷色系的水槽中,添加了一層冷色系的薄膜。

設計師

Badgley Mischka、Barbara Bui

M·A·C 資深彩妝師Think重點技法

煙暈的技法點綴上像是古董飾品上散發的光彩與色澤,技巧是把光澤感加入完全霧面的黑色裡,創造顏色與材質的對比。利用霜狀或筆狀的煙燻色打底,在眼睛上做出煙燻的暈染,再用閃爍古銅綠光澤的眼影壓在眼頭,或是把帶有古意的玫瑰金色的魔幻星塵放在下眼影位置,對比的顏色與材質創造新鮮的時尚感。如果喜歡自然妝感,也可只在眼皮上單色暈染時尚焦點小眼影-PATINA,即可創造出簡單又流行的漫遊古感妝容。

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HONE-STRUCTURE

Exploring the construction and contours of a face isn’t a brand new idea in beauty (it’s one that’s been brewing for a few seasons now, culminating in SS2012’s love of skin in a laminate athletic gloss), yet for AW2012 the concept of sculpting continues in an increasingly cerebral direction. The beauty equivalent of the utilitarian and military vibe so omnipresent in fashion.

“Bone structure has moved on from last season’s hyper-highlighting into a consideration of how to add depth to a face with shadows.” – Terry Barber

“We’ve turned the light around this season – it’s now less about highlights and more about the depth of a contour. It creates a shaded face that is slightly hollow and haunted but extremely beautiful and not alien.” – Andrew Gallimore

In its purest form, this look is about a nude sculptural face as a canvas for a brow (straighter, stronger and more purposefully groomed, from which the other features seem to hang) – indeed, a brow is the axis of what makes these honed, nude looks contemporary. “It’s a highly technical form of beauty,” adds Terry Barber, of the myriad manners and devices (and products) employed to create it. From slightly paling down the skin (“it’s like working in negative, it automatically brings the shadows out,” explains Lyne Desnoyers), to very clever concealing, an array of Pro Sculpting Creams and skin-imitating Cream Colour Bases, this trend is absolutely about proper placement of a highlight and a contour. “To put in bone structure is a very knowing art form and the real mastery of being a makeup artist,” adds Terry.

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趨勢重點3 – 琢磨骨架

探討臉部的構造與輪廓,在美容界並不是一個全新的概念,然而 2012 秋冬,雕刻立體感的概念將朝越來越理智的方向繼續前進。骨架已經從上季的超級打光推進到考慮如何用陰影為臉部增加深邃感的層次,現在要少打光,多點輪廓的深度。要打造有一點點凹陷,卻又是細膩準確的修容,舉例來說,請想像一個女人拍了一張黑白照,當臉上的明暗非常清楚時,你就會看到非常一氣呵成的輪廓。這個彩妝趨勢絕對是打光與輪廓的正確配置,我們要女孩們看起來美麗、乾淨、清新但輪廓絕對要鮮明,重視質感與線條而非只是顏色的陰暗。如何凸顯骨架是一種非常精明的藝術形式,也成為彩妝師必備的真正優勢。

設計師

McQ、A.F. Vandevorst、Alexander Wang、Felder Felder、Marni、Giambattista Valli、Gareth Pugh、Silvio Betterelli、Max Mara、Louise Gray。

M·A·C 資深彩妝師Think重點技法

修容、打亮不外乎就是希望讓臉型立體漂亮,今年秋冬利用層疊手法與霜狀材質讓臉型立體、讓鼻字高挺、讓眼睛深邃,但卻又自然的像是宛若天生。第一訣竅就是先讓眉型立體,利用超細緻眉型筆畫出適合自己的眉型,再利用比膚色深一點的顏色,順著眉頭往下延伸暈出一點鼻影,建議使用#217時尚暈色刷來暈染。接著使用霜狀材質來打造兩頰的輪廓修飾,粉底之後、蜜粉之前,讓顏色融進肌膚裡面,訣竅就是利用刷子不停的來回暈染直到沒有邊線即可。

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ARTI-TECH

While a black liquid liner can be inextricably linked with the past (a Twenties flapper, Forties feline, Fifties wings, Sixties flicks, Seventies punk, Eighties New Wave…), makeup artists this season have shrugged off the liners’ retro connotations and are considering the contemporary graphicism of a black line interpreted in an unconventional manner.

“This season isn’t about liner being classic; it’s about liner as an etching, about it creating a geometry on the face.”  – Gordon Espinet

Beauty is very much in this detail, though. While these lines are fragmented in their structure, by respecting the architecture of the eye shape, they tailor and enhance the face. The key reference points: Oriental precision (indeed, fashion’s collective eye seems trained on the East) and equestrian elegance – refined, original and intriguing, the new updated liner is “all about a trick of the eye that is very artistic. It’s about taking a classic gesture and reworking it into something non-conformist,” says Andrew Gallimore.

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趨勢重點4 – 人工藝術

黑色眼線在每個年代都有特殊的代表作,例如20 年代的青春少女、40 年代的性感小野貓、50 年代的尾翼眼線、60 年代的電影造型、70 年代的龐克、80 年代的新浪潮…,2012秋冬打散重組每個年代的經典畫法,以一種不墨守成規的手法,詮釋當代幾何主義的黑色眼線。尊重眼型的構造,量身打造並畫出凸顯自我特色的幾何圖,而非同一種架構套在每個人身上。

結構中是一段一段的,這是一種玩弄極致藝術的眼妝技巧,是要採取古典的姿態,卻又把它重新做成某種不循規蹈矩的東西,讓彩妝呈現更硬,不那麼直接,是很圖像式的黑色眼妝。

設計師

Mary Katrantzou、Antonlo Marras、Aquascutum、Arzu Kaprol、Frankie Morello、Erdem、Felder Felder、John Richmond、Manish Arora、Moschino、Meadhamkirchhoff。

M·A·C 資深彩妝師Think重點技法

黑色眼線在今年大大被發想,利用結構式的框架來改變與標的眼型。使用純黑色的眼線產品,把眼睛整個框起來,並創造出想要的眼型,即是今年流行的手法!如果想要更有創意,可嘗試在雙眼皮位置多畫一道眼線,或是讓眼尾的線條變成更立體的三角形狀,建議可先用眼線筆描出想要的形狀,再搭配流暢眼線凝霜讓線條更俐落,或利用超激光防水眼線液重覆描繪上去創造漆皮的材質光感,讓眼線更加摩登。

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M‧A‧C資深彩妝師:Luc Bouchard的秋冬彩妝技法-摩登透明彩妝

M‧A‧C資深彩妝師:LUC BOUCHARD的秋冬彩妝技法這次特地為ELLE設計亞洲女性適合的妝容,這款摩登的60年代透明感彩妝,強調有點強韌的性格中並帶著詩意的美感,讓今年的秋冬妝彩多了­更迷人的氛圍。

Source: M·A·C Cosmetics, Voce Beauty (Taiwan)

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