Tag Archives: make-up tips

知名彩妝大師Pat McGrath:「任何事都是時尚,不只彩妝,時尚就是文化。」

8 Aug

by: Rose Yu | Re-Blog from: BeautiMode

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Pat McGrath in action

Pat McGrath in action

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Pat McGrath是時裝週許多品牌爭相合作的彩妝師,左上順時針起Givenchy、 Alexander McQueen、Miu Miu2015秋冬、 Louis Vuitton2015早春。 (圖/Pat McGrath FB)

Pat McGrath是時裝週許多品牌爭相合作的彩妝師,左上順時針起Givenchy、 Alexander McQueen、Miu Miu2015秋冬、 Louis Vuitton2015早春。 (圖/Pat McGrath FB)

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她被時尚雜誌《Vogue》譽為「全世界最有影響力的彩妝師」,Prada、Dior、Dolce & Gabbana、Gucci、Louis Vuitton等知名時尚品牌的服裝秀及形象廣告妝容,全都仰賴她打造,為了遷就她的時間空檔,拍攝工作可能因此延期或取消;她也曾跨足電影,將清秀的美國女星魯妮瑪拉Rooney Mara改造成《龍紋身的女孩》的龐克形象;她因為對時尚及美妝產業的卓越貢獻,而在2013年獲頒大英帝國榮譽勳章。她就是Pat McGrath,這位創造出一季又一季彩妝趨勢的彩妝師,總是以全黑造型穿梭於各大時裝週的服裝秀後台,不論是創意十足的實驗性妝容或是日常經典妝容,都能游刃有餘地掌握詮釋,從未接受過正規彩妝訓練的她,由於母親的啟蒙,再加上自身不斷精進與努力,才有今日的成就與地位。

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Pat McGrath將女星魯妮瑪拉Rooney Mara(圖左)改造為身上有鼻環、刺青,造型龐克的《龍紋身的女孩》(圖右)。(圖/A.G.NAUTA COUTURE)

Pat McGrath將女星魯妮瑪拉Rooney Mara(圖左)改造為身上有鼻環、刺青,造型龐克的《龍紋身的女孩》(圖右)。(圖/A.G.NAUTA COUTURE)

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當我還沒有意識到時,就已經走進了美妝產業。

出生於英國倫敦北方小鎮北安普頓Northampton的Pat McGrath認為,她在彩妝方面之所以會有跳脫框架的創造力,都該歸功於她身為牙買加移民的母親,「當我還沒有意識到時,我就已經走進了美妝產業。每個禮拜五晚上,我母親都會帶著我來到鎮上的小店,尋找適合黑色肌膚的化妝品…我總會站在她身後哭泣,因為我不想待在那裡,沒想到最後這竟成為了我的事業。」

「她訓練我如何完成一場秀的基本功。」Pat McGrath透露,她熱愛時尚的母親在她小時候常常會考她不同眼影的顏色,要她觀察服裝圖案、感受布料質地,然後找出合適的彩妝。直到今天,她依然使用母親教會她的彩妝技巧,「她總是會將乳液與各種顏色的彩妝品混和,因為當時那裡根本沒有適合黑皮膚的產品。」

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常為國際時尚品牌設計每季發表會妝容的彩妝師Pat McGrath,總是以一身黑穿梭在服裝秀後台。(圖/Pat McGrath FB)

常為國際時尚品牌設計每季發表會妝容的彩妝師Pat McGrath,總是以一身黑穿梭在服裝秀後台。(圖/Pat McGrath FB)

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1980年代,完成大學預科文憑的Pat McGrath搬到倫敦後,立刻沉迷在五光十色的夜店裡,當時倫敦的夜店是音樂與時尚的交流聚集地,許多年輕人將那裡視為大膽實驗的園地,隨處可見華麗誇張的造型,喬治男孩Boy George便是其中的代表人物。

當時她經常以口紅塗在眼皮與臉頰上,塑造出自然紅潤的效果,之所以會以口紅當眼影和腮紅,其實只是一種善用手邊現有資源的變通做法,而非刻意搞怪,因為當時要偷拿母親的眼影難度較高,使得她只能選擇從母親不太會注意到遺失的口紅下手,沒想到有天走在路上竟因此被電台DJ攔住,詢問是否可以幫她化妝,當時她就經常被人問起相關問題,也開始覺得自己或許可以當個化妝師。

儘管由於學費過於高昂而從未受過正規的美妝專業訓練,Pat McGrath靠著在自己的臉上實驗,從每一次的嘗試與錯誤中學習,之後她開始接案幫人化妝,雖然一開始總是四處碰壁,甚至萌生「我永遠當不成化妝師,該去找工作了」的念頭,但最後她卻獲邀至日本,為正在巡迴演出的樂團Soul II Soul化妝,這個機會使她開始與《i-D》雜誌的時尚總監Edward Enninful合作,隨後更憑著出色創新的彩妝技巧被任命為美容總監。

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Pat McGrath與攝影師Steven Meisel合作操刀義大利版《Vogue》1997年2月號封面,將名模Karen Elson的眉毛剃掉,繪上鮮明的幾何圖案。(圖/WWD)

Pat McGrath與攝影師Steven Meisel合作操刀義大利版《Vogue》1997年2月號封面,將名模Karen Elson的眉毛剃掉,繪上鮮明的幾何圖案。(圖/WWD)

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90年代,名模Amber Valletta將Pat McGrath介紹給攝影師Steven Meisel,他們兩人一拍即合,為美國版與義大利版《Vogue》創造出無數經典作品,也為當時略為保守的彩妝界帶來大膽新穎的顏色。

此時Pat McGrath開始與時尚品牌合作,如Jil Sander、Hussein Chalayan,甚至為Parda、Miu Miu花了十個季度建構新的彩妝概念,也為自己漸漸打開知名度,吸引越來越多品牌與她合作,她也成為時尚界最忙碌的彩妝師之一,往返世界各大城市,有時甚至一天要趕4場發表會。

Pat McGrath也與許多合作過的工作夥伴成為好朋友,名模娜歐蜜坎貝兒Naomi Campbell曾說:「Pat如果不做化妝師,可以改行當喜劇演員。」因為她總愛講笑話、模仿別人,為忙碌工作的夥伴們帶來歡樂氣氛,紓解壓力。

由此可看出,除了對於彩妝獨到的眼光外,她幽默、熱情的個性也令人樂於與她合作,甚至還讓她多了「媽媽」的綽號,因此超模Linda Evangelista直言:「McGrath是唯一一個少了她工作就無法進行的彩妝師。」她就曾見過因為約不到Pat McGrath,就取消拍攝的情形。

每一個設計師都會帶你領略不同的旅行,能夠進入他們的幻想世界真的很棒。

儘管每一季都要負責約35場時裝秀的彩妝造型,Pat McGrath仍然能擁有源源不絕的創意,亮片、水晶、金箔、蕾絲、羽毛…都能成為她的妝容元素,對此,她謙虛地認為:「我能打破所有的規則,是因為我根本不知道規則是什麼。如此你才可以學習,並且提出新點子。即使是今天,我仍在學習。」

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Pat McGrath不為自己設限,往往能與設計師相互激盪出精彩的作品,在與前Dior創意總監John Galliano合作多年後,這是她首度與設計師Bill Gaytten合作的Dior 2011秋冬高級訂製服妝容。(圖/Pat McGrath FB)

Pat McGrath不為自己設限,往往能與設計師相互激盪出精彩的作品,在與前Dior創意總監John Galliano合作多年後,這是她首度與設計師Bill Gaytten合作的Dior 2011秋冬高級訂製服妝容。(圖/Pat McGrath FB)

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而最好的學習範本,自然就是每一季的服裝系列與模特兒本身。「我所見到的布料、服裝系列的色彩與女孩的臉龐都深深地影響我。在這行中,總是會面臨挑戰,但這也是關鍵──每次都要有所不同。」不僅是挑戰,對Pat McGrath來說,也許更是種享受:「每一個設計師都會帶你領略不同的旅行,能夠進入他們的幻想世界真的很棒。」

知名設計師Anna Sui曾如此談論過Pat McGrath:「她渴望聽見每一個系列背後的故事,熱衷於被激發靈感,甚至會自己做更多研究。」

▶Pat McGrath教你在機艙簡單完成保養與彩妝

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因此經常飛往世界各大城市的Pat McGrath,行李除了大量的彩妝造型用品外,還包括許多貼滿黃色便條籤的書籍,從時尚、美妝到攝影、藝術、刺青,應有盡有。可見要成為「最具有影響力的彩妝師」,需要的不僅是天分而已。

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名模孫菲菲登上2013義大利版《Vogue》封面,由黃金搭檔Pat McGrath與Steven Meisel共同合作。(圖/WWD)

名模孫菲菲 (Fei Fei Sun) 登上2013義大利版《Vogue》封面,由黃金搭檔Pat McGrath與Steven Meisel共同合作。(圖/WWD)

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Pat McGrath曾經如此對英國版《Vogue》說:「任何事情都會變成時尚,不只彩妝,它可以是電影、電視、藝術歷史、書籍、夜總會。時尚就是文化。」對她而言,時尚不是遙不可及的,而是存在於文化之中。

任何事情都會變成時尚,不只彩妝,它可以是電影、電視、藝術歷史、書籍、夜總會。時尚就是文化。

因此在英國衛報的訪問中,她這麼說:「我喜歡服裝秀是因為它可以讓你盡情作夢,還有那些夢幻的元素,因為在時尚界中,即使是所謂的現實,往往也是一種幻想,但是這就是吸引你的地方。所以當人們說:『我的天啊,我永遠不會穿成那樣!』我總想:『你一定會的。』因為無論那些元素在秀場中看起來怎樣瘋狂,最終都會以各種不同的形式融入成為服飾店裡的商品。」

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Pat McGrath為《i-D》雜誌2004年9月號封面名模Jessica Stem打造妝容,用色大膽,無時間性,也因此被該雜誌評選為創刊以來的35大封面。(圖/WWD)

Pat McGrath為《i-D》雜誌2004年9月號封面名模Jessica Stem打造妝容,用色大膽,無時間性,也因此被該雜誌評選為創刊以來的35大封面。(圖/WWD)

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對於秀場上前衛大膽的妝容而言,何嘗不是如此呢?據前《Vogue》美容總監Sarah Brown表示,有90%的時裝週彩妝趨勢都來自Pat McGrath,許多新聞媒體也常常詢問這位知名彩妝師對於未來彩妝趨勢的看法。

正因為在彩妝界不容忽視的亮眼表現,讓Pat McGrath在2004年被全球日用品龍頭P & G寶僑集團延攬,擔任美容事業部的全球創意設計總監,負責集團旗下包括Cover Girl、Max Factor等美妝品牌至今,而她同時也是許多品牌彩妝系列的幕後推手,不但為Giorgio Armani設計了一系列的彩妝商品,也參與了Dolce & Gabbana、Gucci等品牌彩妝系列的開發。

▶GUCCI首次推出彩妝系列,葛麗絲凱莉孫女任代言人

▶倍耐力Pirelli 2015年曆造型 Pat McGrath操刀

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身為許多品牌彩妝系列幕後推手的Pat McGrath,也為Dolce & Gabbana的彩妝系列獻計。(圖/Dolce & Gabbana)

身為許多品牌彩妝系列幕後推手的Pat McGrath,也為Dolce & Gabbana的彩妝系列獻計。(圖/Dolce & Gabbana)

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許多優秀的彩妝師最終都會成立自己的品牌,如Bobbi Brown、Laura Mercier、François Nars,Pat McGrath是否也會成立自己的彩妝品牌呢?她曾對WWD說:「未來我也很希望擁有自己的彩妝品牌。」雖然時至今日這個夢想尚未實現,但仍令人期待Pat McGrath自己的彩妝品牌會如何呈現。

  • 資料來源:WWD、The Wall Street Journal、The Guardian、Vogue UK

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Related blog posts in Tommy Beauty Pro:

Change Your Look Fast: 5 Quick Makeup Fixes

8 May

 改頭換面:快速改妝的5個彩妝秘訣

PHOTOGRAPHY: MODEL BY DALLAS CUROW; PRODUCT BY CARLO MENDOZA

PHOTOGRAPHY: MODEL BY DALLAS CUROW; PRODUCT BY CARLO MENDOZA

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When life gets busy, it’s easy for a makeup routine to become, well, routine. We fall back on our tried and true methods and take the easy route just make it out the door on time! Luckily, we’re here to help you out of even the deepest beauty rut with a few tiny tweaks that make a big impact.

From brightening up a bold lip to switching up your bronzer application, these quick makeup fixes will breathe some new life into your daily beauty regimen without stealing valuable time.

當生活變得忙碌時,每天的日常彩妝很容易就會變成例行公事,而我們也就習慣性地畫回那一成不變的妝。很幸運地,我們在這裡幫大家整理出來小小調整過的美妝技巧,效果絕對會讓妳的妝容煥然一新。

從如何將高調大膽的唇色提亮增加光采,至古銅色修容彩妝品的使用技巧,妳在日常彩妝上會因為這篇文章教妳的快速改妝秘訣,能有新的驚喜,而且這些技巧在使用上也不會太花時間喔。

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PHOTOGRAPHY AND MAKEUP BY DALLAS CUROW; MODEL MAGGIE/THE ROCK AGENCY

Photo & Makeup by Dallas Curow; Model: Maggie/The Rock Agency

Makeup Quick Fix 1: Brighten Up a Bold Lip

Here’s a simple way to give your bold lip a 3D effect. Start by applying your favorite lipstick as usual, using a lip brush if you want extra precision.

To add fullness and dimension, add a lighter color from the same color family to the center of your lower lip. To intensify the effect, add a little to the center of your upper lip as well. To keep the effect, try to avoid pressing or rubbing your lips together in order to keep the colors from mixing.

快速改妝秘訣1:提亮增加高調大膽唇色的光采

這是一個如何讓妳大膽唇色增加3D立體效果的簡單方法。首先按照妳平常的方法塗上妳最喜愛的口紅,若要將唇妝上得更細致些,一定要搭配唇刷來上唇色。

要增加唇色的豐滿度和立體感,在下唇的中心部位加上另一同色系列較淺的顏色。若要更加強立體的效果,在上唇的中心部位也加上一些淺色。為了保持整體的效果,盡量避免上下雙唇相抿而造成唇色混著。

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PHOTOGRAPHY AND MAKEUP BY DALLAS CUROW; MODEL MAGGIE/THE ROCK AGENCY

Photo & Makeup by Dallas Curow; Model: Maggie/The Rock Agency

Makeup Quick Fix 2: Tightline Your Eyes

Tightlining your eyes is a great way to add subtle, sexy definition in just a few seconds— especially when your regular mascara is just not cutting it. Start by curling your eyelashes to open up your eyes.

Using a waterproof eyeliner, gently apply it to your waterline. Blink and squinch your eyes a few times to soften the look. Apply it all the way around for a more noticeable effect, or just do the upper waterline for a cool, no-makeup effect that magically thickens the look of your lashes.

快速改妝秘訣2:隱形內眼線

若妳平常使用的睫毛膏呈現的效果不佳時,「隱形內眼線」是一個在幾秒鐘能夠讓妳的眼妝增加自然細緻又帶有媚眼神的絕佳技巧。首先先使用睫毛夾將妳的睫毛夾捲翹,這會讓妳眼型放大、更加炯炯有神。

使用防水眼線筆,輕輕將其在妳的下眼瞼畫一條眼線。將眼睛眨幾次,這會讓眼線的線條更加柔和自然。若要有較明顯的深邃眼神效果,在眼睛上下的眼瞼都描繪眼線;或著妳要呈現出無妝容又俐落的效果,就只要在上內眼瞼(睫毛根部與其中間空隙處)補滿眼線,就會製造眼睛與睫毛一體成形的明眸。

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PHOTO & MAKEUP BY DALLAS CUROW; MODEL MAGGIE/THE ROCK AGENCY

Photo & Makeup by Dallas Curow; Model: Maggie/The Rock Agency

Makeup Quick Fix 3: Contour

With a few swipes of a single product, you can instantly define your bone structure. Start by setting your foundation with a translucent powder to create a smooth canvas.

To contour, take a cool brown, matte eyeshadow and buff it under your cheekbones, on your temples and under your jawline using a slanted contouring brush or small blush brush. For a bit more definition, shade lightly along the sides of your nose with a fluffy eyeshadow brush.

快速改妝秘訣3:輪廓修容

只要使用一項彩妝品在臉上揮一揮,妳馬上就會有根據臉骨結構而顯現出的臉部立體修容。首先先將上好底妝的臉,刷上一層薄薄的透明定妝粉使底妝服貼成為一幅平滑乾淨的畫布。

接下來要輪廓修容的部分是使用一個偏冷色系、霧狀的棕色眼影,用斜角輪廓刷( 或小型腮紅刷)以打蠟時所運用的旋轉方式移動刷子,將顏色上在臉部雙頰顴骨的下方、兩側的太陽穴以及下巴顎線部位。若要使輪廓修容效果更凹凸有致,也可以用蓬鬆的眼影刷輕輕沿著鼻子的兩側再打上些立體「 陰影」。

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PHOTO & MAKEUP BY DALLAS CUROW; MODEL MAGGIE/THE ROCK AGENCY

Photo & Makeup by Dallas Curow; Model: Maggie/The Rock Agency

Makeup Quick Fix 4: Change Up Your Bronzer Application

The most common way to apply bronzer is with a big fluffy brush, the conventional wisdom being that a larger brush better diffuses the product. While true, a large brush also means less control. For a more precise application, use a small stippling brush or fluffy eyeshadow brush and apply your bronzer first in specific areas. Draw two inverted triangles on the apples of your cheeks, then apply small streaks across the top of your forehead, along the sides of your nose, and even in the crease of your eyelid.

Then using a medium-sized brush, blend out the product for a natural, sun-kissed look that still has definition. Bonus Tip: use a cream or mousse formula of bronzer for the easiest blending.

快速改妝秘訣4:古銅色修容彩妝品的使用技巧

我們一般使用古銅色修容粉餅就是用一支大蜜粉刷將粉餅刷在臉上,因為傳統理論上來說大支的蜜粉刷比較容易將彩妝品均勻延展開來。話雖如此,大支的蜜粉刷有時也較難操作使用。為了要讓妝上得更細致,首先使用一支小型的鬆粉刷或蓬鬆的眼影刷在以下指定的部位塗上古銅色修容彩妝品:臉部雙頰上畫倒三角形,額頭上方畫一條橫線,沿著鼻子的兩側以及眼窩部位都各畫線條( 如上圖1)。

接著使用一支中型的刷子將畫上古銅修容彩妝的部位均勻推開來,它呈現出來的妝容會像是艷陽曬過的自然仿曬效果。彩妝技巧加強版:使用霜狀或慕絲狀的古銅色修容產品會更加容易均勻推色

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Photo & Makeup by Dallas Curow; Model: Maggie/The Rock Agency

Photo & Makeup by Dallas Curow; Model: Maggie/The Rock Agency

Makeup Quick Fix 5: Eyeshadow Highlight

Here’s a super simple way to brighten up your usual eyeshadow look. Start by applying your base colour across the lid, using a matte product.

Instead of highlighting the inner corner of your eye, apply a light-reflecting shade to the center of your eyelid. As you go about your day, every time you blink, the light will hit the shimmer on your lid, giving your eyes a little extra sparkle.

快速改妝秘訣5:眼影打亮

這是一個超簡單的方式,能迅速提亮妳日常眼部彩妝的光采。 首先使用一支霧狀的眼影塗抹在眼皮上。

與其在眼睛內角部位打亮,在眼皮中間的部位抹上具有光澤效果的淡色眼影,每當妳一眨眼,光與你的打亮眼影即會產生出耀眼星燦之美。

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Makeup Tips: 10 Foundation Rules to Live By

9 Jul

Lay the groundwork for your foundation with these 10 makeup tips from the pros for flawless, even coverage (and radiant skin) every time you apply foundation.

By: Sarah Thompson  |  Photography: Imaxtree.com

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foundation-rules-article-0001

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True makeup artists know the importance of building from the ground up. Set the stage for your full-face makeup routine with these 10 makeup tips on how to apply foundation for a blemish-free, youthful complexion. Maxime Poulin, International Makeup Artist for Guerlain, and Leslie Ann Iddison, Regional Trainer for Clarins Canada reveal their 10 most important foundation makeup tips to follow for flawless, radiant skin coverage this summer.

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1. Prim and Prime the Skin
Before you apply foundation, begin with a primer as a base coat to prep your face for dewy, radiant skin. “It smoothes the skin texture, helps your foundation to last longer, the colour to stay true, the application to be more even and makes your skin appear more luminescent,” says Poulin. “It really helps binding the liquid makeup to your skin for a long lasting, flawless finish and it makes you look more natural.”
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2. Foundations with Benefits
There’s no reason why foundation should be just another cosmetic you use without a bonus. “Most of us wear foundation throughout the entire day so this product should offer your skin more than just makeup. Think about using a foundation that boosts hydration or has a built-in SPF,” says Iddison.
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3. Be in Tune with Nature

We’re Canadian girls—meaning we have to adjust our foundation to ready our skin for the rotating seasons. Lighten your foundation during the summer months and add a little more product (plus a moisturizer) for winter. “The skin is exposed to all kinds of weather, and what looks and feels good in -30 will not be appropriate in the midst of summer when it gets hot and sticky,” says Poulin.
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4. Don’t Go to Bed Angry—or with Your Foundation
This may seem like a no brainer, but we all need a little reminder about one of the most important makeup tips—the necessity of removing makeup at night for healthy, radiant skin. “Don’t go to bed with your foundation on, no matter how tired you are,” says Iddison. “Always be sure to use a high quality cleansing product to remove all traces of foundation at the end of the day.”

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5. Be a Foundation Hoarder
Collect different foundations for your makeup arsenal to suit your daily activities and to maintain a natural skin tone. “Foundations aren’t one-size-fits-all. Have different foundations for different purposes, such as a long-wearing product for the work week, a light-weight product for casual days or a full-coverage product for when you want your skin to look completely flawless,” says Iddison.

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6. Go on a Shopping Spree
Purchasing a low-end nail polish or lip colour is one thing, but finding the best foundation for radiant skin is a different story. “The foundation is the one item you should always splurge on. It is the one that covers your entire face so you should always go for the best formula out there for your skin,” says Poulin.
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7. Give It a Test Drive
We all do it—secretly wipe a swatch of the newest foundation on our arm at the drugstore. “Always try to get the best colour match possible. Make sure that you test the colour on your jawline—not your wrist—before you purchase the product,” says Iddison. This will give you an accurate reading of the best shade for your skin type.

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8. It’s All About the Colour
When testing a new foundation, make sure the product is just a bit lighter than your skin tone. “Nothing is more ageing than a foundation which is darker than your complexion. When you choose a dark foundation it removes the glow from your skin and makes you look older, erases the features and makes you look flat,” says Poulin.

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9. A Layer or Two Will Do
To guarantee pretty, matte skin, avoid piling on the layers and making it obvious you’ve applied foundation. “This will make it look like you’re wearing a mask. There are many high quality foundations on the market that are light-weight yet provide great coverage,” says Iddison.

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10. Be Ready for Your Close-up All Day Long
Be sure to bring a compact to reapply foundation when you’re on the go to keep your complexion fresh and polished. “No matter how long lasting, nobody stays fabulous all day long without a minimal oh-so-elegant touch up at lunch time and after work before the happy hour,” says Poulin.

There you have it—10 rules to help you apply foundation better and to set you on your way to immaculate, radiant skin this summer.

Source: ELLE Canada

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Mascara Tips: 8 Rules to Live By

5 Jul

Never deal with a smudge, smear, flake, clump or a bit of goop again when it comes to mascara. Pro makeup artists share their best, never-fail mascara tips for perfectly fluttering lashes.

By: Jennifer Weatherhead Harrington  |  PHOTOGRAPHY: imaxtree.com
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how-to-apply-mascara
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Who hasn’t had a mascara mishap in their day? (If you say “no, never,” we’re going to assume you’re in beauty denial). A smudge here, never ending clumps and the dreaded runny mascara are not quite the beauty look we’re going for, but some how they always manage to sneak up on us during the mascara application process. That’s why, friends, we enlisted the help of some of our most trusted go-to makeup artists (a.k.a a girl’s BFF) for mascara tips that will never flounder, fail or leave us looking anything but wide-eyed and refreshed. Read on for 10 beauty-changing mascara tips.
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1. Curl, then Coat

“Always curl lashes BEFORE applying mascara,” says Grace Lee Maybelline New York Lead Makeup Artist Canada. “Curling after mascara application might lead to ripped, pulled and kinked lashes, plus a very dirty eye lash curler.” And none of us want that.

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2. Switch It Up

Don’t marry yourself to one mascara formula advises Sara Whittaker National Education Director for Clinque. “Build a mascara wardrobe for creating different eye looks depending on your preference. Try a lengthening formula for a flirty eye look, or a thickening formula for a more dramatic effect.”

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3. Pump No More

Mascara application myth: the more mascara the better. Not so. There’s no need to pump the wand in and out of the tube trying to get more product, ladies. “It dries out the product,” explains Lee. “Also, when pulling out the wand, remove excess on the sides to minimize too much product and clumping. Too much product usually leads to clumping!”

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4. Save Your Old Brushes

“Clean and save an old mascara brush as a tool to help comb through lashes before applying mascara, and during application to help shape and separate lashes,” suggests Whittaker.

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5. Start at the Base and Work Your Way to the Lash Tips

“Always start at the base of the lash line and wiggle upwards and outwards,” advises Lee. “Don’t forget the little lashes at the corners of the eyes. Coating these lashes will help open up the eyes and making them look bigger!”

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6. Lengthen It Up

“To create maximum length, place your mirror flat on your vanity and look down to apply your mascara,” advises Whittaker. “This will help ensure that the brush is reaching the very base of your lashes as you comb all the way through to the tips.”
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7. Keep an Eye on that Expiration Date

Tired of flaky mascara always ruining your look by afternoon? Check how old your mascara really is (one of Lee’s top mascara tips). “Replace your mascara within 3-6 months after opening. You will also know when it’s time when it starts to smell funny and it gets drier. A drier formulation leads to flakiness!” she says.

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8. A Little Extra Time Means a Flawless Application

Even if you only have five minutes to get from shower to office-ready, one of the biggest mascara tips is to take your time. “Don’t rush the brush – take the time to apply, and let product dry between coats,” Whittaker says to help achieve that perfect mascara application.

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Source: ELLE Canada
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Makeup 101: Smokey Eyes by M·A·C’s Mickey Contractor’s Team

2 Nov

Bollywood pretty much has the smoky eye down on lock. So of course, when I sat down with one of their biggest makeup artists – Mickey Contractor, Director of M·A·C Cosmetics Makeup Artistry (India). I made sure I’d ask him about how to get the smoky eye look so many of us are still trying to perfect (that includes me). Instead of telling me, he asked one of his assistants, Donnie Hsiao, to show me! Donnie went right to work, telling me exactly what he was using to achieve the look while he worked:

MAC Smokey Eye Shadow Palette

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Products & Tools used
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  • M·A·C Paint Pot in “Bare Study”
  • M·A·C “Smolder” Eye Kohl
  • M·A·C “Carbon” Eyeshadow
  • M·A·C “Folie” Eyeshadow
  • M·A·C “Ricepaper” Eyeshadow
  • M·A·C “Zoom Lash” Mascara
  • M·A·C #219 Pencil Brush
  • M·A·C #217 Blending Brush
  • M·A·C “Lust” Tinted Lipglass
  • M·A·C “Mocha” Powder Blush

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Smokey Eye Step by Step:

1. First, apply the paint pot all over the lid as an eye shadow base. This will ensure that there is not creasing and allows you to start on a neutral base.

Prepping the eyes

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2. Next, apply the Smolder liner to your top lash line with the #219 Pencil Brush. Smudge out.

Apply black liner on the lash line

Smudge the line with #219 Pencil Brush

Extend the smudging around & up to the crease with the #217 Blending Brush

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3. Then apply a little of the “Folie” eye shadow, topping it with “Carbon” on the eye lid and blend with the fluffy #217 Blending Brush.

Apply a dark color eye shadow like Carbon to eye lid

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4. Go back to the #219 Pencil Brush and line the bottom inner lid. Smudge out.

Add black liner to the lower lash line

Blend and smudge the lower liner with #219 Pencil Brush

Smokey eye halfway done!

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5. Using the same #217 Blend Brush, add “Folie” eye shadow to the crease. BLEND.

Add “Folie” to the crease and blend

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6. To finish, add “Ricepaper” eye shadow to highlight the brow bone. Finish it off with lots of “Zoom Lash” Mascara!

Add “Ricepaper” eye shadow to brow bone as highlighter

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7. Clean up the surrounding area in case any shadow pigments fell under your eyes by using a powder foundation like M·A·C Studio Fix Powder. To finish up my look, Donnie also used “Lust” Tinted Lipglass on the lips, and dust “Mocha” Powder Blush on the cheeks.

Finished smokey eye look!

Finished look with Make-up Extraordinaire, Donnie!

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Below is a snippet of Donnie doing my eyes — it’s not quite a tutorial in itself, but I figure it’s easier to see it done if you want to imitate the look yourself!

How to: Smoky Eyes using M·A·C via Mickey Contractor – IIFA Awards 2011

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Smoky Eye Make-up by Tommy . Photo by Flotography

Smoky Eye Make-up 煙燻妝 by Tommy | Photo by Flotography

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