Tag Archives: Pat McGrath

Pat McGrath Gives 4 Classic Beauty Looks – The Pat McGrath Upgrade

3 Oct

What can’t the makeup maestro do? Here, she puts a fresh spin on the glamorous smoky eye, the bold red lip, and more of ELLE’s most beloved beauty looks.

Re-Blog from:  ELLE Beauty

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The sensual smoky eye. The radical pop of color. The geometric detail. The exquisitely fresh face. Certain beauty looks have been a part of ELLE’s DNA—reinvented time and again in our pages—for 30 years. Makeup maestro Pat McGrath gives us the best birthday gift ever, bringing ELLE’s beauty signatures into 2015 and beyond.

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elm090115btypatmcgrath_001 Where There is Smoke

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WHERE THERE’S SMOKE…

Simultaneously elegant and badass, the smoky eye has been an inky emblem of ELLE’s own- your-sex-appeal ethos since model Yasmin Le Bon (née Parvaneh) graced our first-ever issue in September 1985—her skin bare but her eyes dusted with smoldering black shadow. “This full- on glossy metallic eye is a nod to the courageous attitude of the ’80s,” says Pat McGrath, P&G global creative director. “It takes inspiration from an oil slick, modernized with a rich, molten, burgundy finish.”

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elm090115btypatmcgrath_002 The Shining

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THE SHINING

“It’s the perfect example of taking a classic look and playing with texture to make it new,” says McGrath of her futuristically sleek update on the bold red lip. The magic, she says, is contrast: The glassy, pigment- drenched ruby set against bare skin is striking without being overdone. McGrath traced the mouth with lip liner—”making any corrections in symmetry where needed”—then smoothed on lipstick, adding tons of purple iridescent- flecked gloss “for that super high-shine finish,” she says.

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elm090115btypatmcgrath_003 Blue Steel

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BLUE STEEL

“The strong color and bold shape push the limit of what eye shadow can be,” says McGrath of this graphic, teal-blue eye. The effect evokes ELLE’s famous June 1986 cover, which showcased Elle Macpherson’s face streaked with neon-yellow zinc sunblock. Glenn Marziali, the makeup artist behind Macpherson’s look, created what would become an ELLE motif: an Amazonian model emblazoned with a strategic dash of color that was, as McGrath puts it, “simultaneously powerful and youthful.” To keep this geometric wing from feeling too eccentric, McGrath decided on a neutral lip and polished brow to ground it.

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elm090115btypatmcgrath_004 Fresh Direct

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FRESH DIRECT

The burst of lilac is the first thing you see, but it’s the fresh, clear skin that defines this look. In the more-is- more ’80s, when makeup (particularly foundation) was swathed on impasto, ELLE always emphasized skin that looked like skin—and the feel here, with what McGrath calls a “fearless lip,” is unexpectedly minimalist. “Seamless blending is the key,” she says of making a complexion look this unadorned yet this flawless. She mixed two foundations, smoothing on a lighter one to highlight the center of the face and a deeper shade around the perimeter to create depth. McGrath also left the eyes mostly bare and accentuated the cheeks with a dab of blush to enhance the skin’s natural flush.

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知名彩妝大師Pat McGrath:「任何事都是時尚,不只彩妝,時尚就是文化。」

8 Aug

by: Rose Yu | Re-Blog from: BeautiMode

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Pat McGrath in action

Pat McGrath in action

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Pat McGrath是時裝週許多品牌爭相合作的彩妝師,左上順時針起Givenchy、 Alexander McQueen、Miu Miu2015秋冬、 Louis Vuitton2015早春。 (圖/Pat McGrath FB)

Pat McGrath是時裝週許多品牌爭相合作的彩妝師,左上順時針起Givenchy、 Alexander McQueen、Miu Miu2015秋冬、 Louis Vuitton2015早春。 (圖/Pat McGrath FB)

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她被時尚雜誌《Vogue》譽為「全世界最有影響力的彩妝師」,Prada、Dior、Dolce & Gabbana、Gucci、Louis Vuitton等知名時尚品牌的服裝秀及形象廣告妝容,全都仰賴她打造,為了遷就她的時間空檔,拍攝工作可能因此延期或取消;她也曾跨足電影,將清秀的美國女星魯妮瑪拉Rooney Mara改造成《龍紋身的女孩》的龐克形象;她因為對時尚及美妝產業的卓越貢獻,而在2013年獲頒大英帝國榮譽勳章。她就是Pat McGrath,這位創造出一季又一季彩妝趨勢的彩妝師,總是以全黑造型穿梭於各大時裝週的服裝秀後台,不論是創意十足的實驗性妝容或是日常經典妝容,都能游刃有餘地掌握詮釋,從未接受過正規彩妝訓練的她,由於母親的啟蒙,再加上自身不斷精進與努力,才有今日的成就與地位。

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Pat McGrath將女星魯妮瑪拉Rooney Mara(圖左)改造為身上有鼻環、刺青,造型龐克的《龍紋身的女孩》(圖右)。(圖/A.G.NAUTA COUTURE)

Pat McGrath將女星魯妮瑪拉Rooney Mara(圖左)改造為身上有鼻環、刺青,造型龐克的《龍紋身的女孩》(圖右)。(圖/A.G.NAUTA COUTURE)

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當我還沒有意識到時,就已經走進了美妝產業。

出生於英國倫敦北方小鎮北安普頓Northampton的Pat McGrath認為,她在彩妝方面之所以會有跳脫框架的創造力,都該歸功於她身為牙買加移民的母親,「當我還沒有意識到時,我就已經走進了美妝產業。每個禮拜五晚上,我母親都會帶著我來到鎮上的小店,尋找適合黑色肌膚的化妝品…我總會站在她身後哭泣,因為我不想待在那裡,沒想到最後這竟成為了我的事業。」

「她訓練我如何完成一場秀的基本功。」Pat McGrath透露,她熱愛時尚的母親在她小時候常常會考她不同眼影的顏色,要她觀察服裝圖案、感受布料質地,然後找出合適的彩妝。直到今天,她依然使用母親教會她的彩妝技巧,「她總是會將乳液與各種顏色的彩妝品混和,因為當時那裡根本沒有適合黑皮膚的產品。」

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常為國際時尚品牌設計每季發表會妝容的彩妝師Pat McGrath,總是以一身黑穿梭在服裝秀後台。(圖/Pat McGrath FB)

常為國際時尚品牌設計每季發表會妝容的彩妝師Pat McGrath,總是以一身黑穿梭在服裝秀後台。(圖/Pat McGrath FB)

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1980年代,完成大學預科文憑的Pat McGrath搬到倫敦後,立刻沉迷在五光十色的夜店裡,當時倫敦的夜店是音樂與時尚的交流聚集地,許多年輕人將那裡視為大膽實驗的園地,隨處可見華麗誇張的造型,喬治男孩Boy George便是其中的代表人物。

當時她經常以口紅塗在眼皮與臉頰上,塑造出自然紅潤的效果,之所以會以口紅當眼影和腮紅,其實只是一種善用手邊現有資源的變通做法,而非刻意搞怪,因為當時要偷拿母親的眼影難度較高,使得她只能選擇從母親不太會注意到遺失的口紅下手,沒想到有天走在路上竟因此被電台DJ攔住,詢問是否可以幫她化妝,當時她就經常被人問起相關問題,也開始覺得自己或許可以當個化妝師。

儘管由於學費過於高昂而從未受過正規的美妝專業訓練,Pat McGrath靠著在自己的臉上實驗,從每一次的嘗試與錯誤中學習,之後她開始接案幫人化妝,雖然一開始總是四處碰壁,甚至萌生「我永遠當不成化妝師,該去找工作了」的念頭,但最後她卻獲邀至日本,為正在巡迴演出的樂團Soul II Soul化妝,這個機會使她開始與《i-D》雜誌的時尚總監Edward Enninful合作,隨後更憑著出色創新的彩妝技巧被任命為美容總監。

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Pat McGrath與攝影師Steven Meisel合作操刀義大利版《Vogue》1997年2月號封面,將名模Karen Elson的眉毛剃掉,繪上鮮明的幾何圖案。(圖/WWD)

Pat McGrath與攝影師Steven Meisel合作操刀義大利版《Vogue》1997年2月號封面,將名模Karen Elson的眉毛剃掉,繪上鮮明的幾何圖案。(圖/WWD)

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90年代,名模Amber Valletta將Pat McGrath介紹給攝影師Steven Meisel,他們兩人一拍即合,為美國版與義大利版《Vogue》創造出無數經典作品,也為當時略為保守的彩妝界帶來大膽新穎的顏色。

此時Pat McGrath開始與時尚品牌合作,如Jil Sander、Hussein Chalayan,甚至為Parda、Miu Miu花了十個季度建構新的彩妝概念,也為自己漸漸打開知名度,吸引越來越多品牌與她合作,她也成為時尚界最忙碌的彩妝師之一,往返世界各大城市,有時甚至一天要趕4場發表會。

Pat McGrath也與許多合作過的工作夥伴成為好朋友,名模娜歐蜜坎貝兒Naomi Campbell曾說:「Pat如果不做化妝師,可以改行當喜劇演員。」因為她總愛講笑話、模仿別人,為忙碌工作的夥伴們帶來歡樂氣氛,紓解壓力。

由此可看出,除了對於彩妝獨到的眼光外,她幽默、熱情的個性也令人樂於與她合作,甚至還讓她多了「媽媽」的綽號,因此超模Linda Evangelista直言:「McGrath是唯一一個少了她工作就無法進行的彩妝師。」她就曾見過因為約不到Pat McGrath,就取消拍攝的情形。

每一個設計師都會帶你領略不同的旅行,能夠進入他們的幻想世界真的很棒。

儘管每一季都要負責約35場時裝秀的彩妝造型,Pat McGrath仍然能擁有源源不絕的創意,亮片、水晶、金箔、蕾絲、羽毛…都能成為她的妝容元素,對此,她謙虛地認為:「我能打破所有的規則,是因為我根本不知道規則是什麼。如此你才可以學習,並且提出新點子。即使是今天,我仍在學習。」

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Pat McGrath不為自己設限,往往能與設計師相互激盪出精彩的作品,在與前Dior創意總監John Galliano合作多年後,這是她首度與設計師Bill Gaytten合作的Dior 2011秋冬高級訂製服妝容。(圖/Pat McGrath FB)

Pat McGrath不為自己設限,往往能與設計師相互激盪出精彩的作品,在與前Dior創意總監John Galliano合作多年後,這是她首度與設計師Bill Gaytten合作的Dior 2011秋冬高級訂製服妝容。(圖/Pat McGrath FB)

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而最好的學習範本,自然就是每一季的服裝系列與模特兒本身。「我所見到的布料、服裝系列的色彩與女孩的臉龐都深深地影響我。在這行中,總是會面臨挑戰,但這也是關鍵──每次都要有所不同。」不僅是挑戰,對Pat McGrath來說,也許更是種享受:「每一個設計師都會帶你領略不同的旅行,能夠進入他們的幻想世界真的很棒。」

知名設計師Anna Sui曾如此談論過Pat McGrath:「她渴望聽見每一個系列背後的故事,熱衷於被激發靈感,甚至會自己做更多研究。」

▶Pat McGrath教你在機艙簡單完成保養與彩妝

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因此經常飛往世界各大城市的Pat McGrath,行李除了大量的彩妝造型用品外,還包括許多貼滿黃色便條籤的書籍,從時尚、美妝到攝影、藝術、刺青,應有盡有。可見要成為「最具有影響力的彩妝師」,需要的不僅是天分而已。

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名模孫菲菲登上2013義大利版《Vogue》封面,由黃金搭檔Pat McGrath與Steven Meisel共同合作。(圖/WWD)

名模孫菲菲 (Fei Fei Sun) 登上2013義大利版《Vogue》封面,由黃金搭檔Pat McGrath與Steven Meisel共同合作。(圖/WWD)

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Pat McGrath曾經如此對英國版《Vogue》說:「任何事情都會變成時尚,不只彩妝,它可以是電影、電視、藝術歷史、書籍、夜總會。時尚就是文化。」對她而言,時尚不是遙不可及的,而是存在於文化之中。

任何事情都會變成時尚,不只彩妝,它可以是電影、電視、藝術歷史、書籍、夜總會。時尚就是文化。

因此在英國衛報的訪問中,她這麼說:「我喜歡服裝秀是因為它可以讓你盡情作夢,還有那些夢幻的元素,因為在時尚界中,即使是所謂的現實,往往也是一種幻想,但是這就是吸引你的地方。所以當人們說:『我的天啊,我永遠不會穿成那樣!』我總想:『你一定會的。』因為無論那些元素在秀場中看起來怎樣瘋狂,最終都會以各種不同的形式融入成為服飾店裡的商品。」

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Pat McGrath為《i-D》雜誌2004年9月號封面名模Jessica Stem打造妝容,用色大膽,無時間性,也因此被該雜誌評選為創刊以來的35大封面。(圖/WWD)

Pat McGrath為《i-D》雜誌2004年9月號封面名模Jessica Stem打造妝容,用色大膽,無時間性,也因此被該雜誌評選為創刊以來的35大封面。(圖/WWD)

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對於秀場上前衛大膽的妝容而言,何嘗不是如此呢?據前《Vogue》美容總監Sarah Brown表示,有90%的時裝週彩妝趨勢都來自Pat McGrath,許多新聞媒體也常常詢問這位知名彩妝師對於未來彩妝趨勢的看法。

正因為在彩妝界不容忽視的亮眼表現,讓Pat McGrath在2004年被全球日用品龍頭P & G寶僑集團延攬,擔任美容事業部的全球創意設計總監,負責集團旗下包括Cover Girl、Max Factor等美妝品牌至今,而她同時也是許多品牌彩妝系列的幕後推手,不但為Giorgio Armani設計了一系列的彩妝商品,也參與了Dolce & Gabbana、Gucci等品牌彩妝系列的開發。

▶GUCCI首次推出彩妝系列,葛麗絲凱莉孫女任代言人

▶倍耐力Pirelli 2015年曆造型 Pat McGrath操刀

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身為許多品牌彩妝系列幕後推手的Pat McGrath,也為Dolce & Gabbana的彩妝系列獻計。(圖/Dolce & Gabbana)

身為許多品牌彩妝系列幕後推手的Pat McGrath,也為Dolce & Gabbana的彩妝系列獻計。(圖/Dolce & Gabbana)

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許多優秀的彩妝師最終都會成立自己的品牌,如Bobbi Brown、Laura Mercier、François Nars,Pat McGrath是否也會成立自己的彩妝品牌呢?她曾對WWD說:「未來我也很希望擁有自己的彩妝品牌。」雖然時至今日這個夢想尚未實現,但仍令人期待Pat McGrath自己的彩妝品牌會如何呈現。

  • 資料來源:WWD、The Wall Street Journal、The Guardian、Vogue UK

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Don’t forget to enter your e-mail at the right sidebar to follow Tommy Beauty Pro blog for more updates on beauty / fashion / lifestyle posts! You can also find me at Instagram & Twitter @tommybeautypro.

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Designer-Made Halloween Masks

1 Nov

FASHION

Masters of Disguise:
Designer-Made Halloween Masks on Some of Our Favorite New Yorkers

Photographed by Olivia Bee | Styled by Jorden Bickham

It’s almost Halloween, and while many of us are a little too grown-up to go trick-or-treating, most of us still love any good excuse to wear a costume. Case in point: We asked designers (Olivier Theyskens, Stephen Jones, Eugenia Kim, and Warby Parker to name a few) to create special Halloween masks, and some of our favorite New Yorkers (including Grace Coddington, Angel Haze, Leandra Medine, and more) stopped by and played dress up with them. See who you recognize behind these one-of-a-kind creations in this first installment of our Halloween mask slideshow, and check back tomorrow for updates.

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Erdem mask worn by Mickey Sumner

Erdem mask worn by Mickey Sumner

“I wanted to create something that you would imagine seeing in a Visconti film.”—Erdem Moralioglu

Made of lace and ostrich feathers.

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Fornasetti mask worn by Vogue’s Tonne Goodman

Fornasetti mask worn by Vogue’s Tonne Goodman

The décor of this mask is taken from the series “Tema e Variazioni” (theme and variations) by Piero Fornasetti. The image that inspired Fornasetti to coin the title “Tema e Variazioni,” is the enigmatic face of a woman: the opera singer Lina Cavalieri. For him, this face became the ultimate enduring motif.

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John Derian mask worn by Toni Garrn

John Derian mask worn by Toni Garrn

“Masks can be sexy and mysterious. Sometimes the simplest thing can have a lot of impact.”

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Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen mask worn by Vogue’s Camilla Nickerson

Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen mask worn by Vogue’s Camilla Nickerson

Made of tulle and lace.

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William Ivey Long mask worn by Vanessa Zahorian of the San Francisco Ballet

William Ivey Long mask worn by Vanessa Zahorian of the San Francisco Ballet

“It is a prototype mask for one of the step-sisters in Cinderella, Gabrielle, as she is trying to woo the prince at the ball.”—William Ivey Long

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Jean Paul Gaultier mask worn by Olivia Bee

Jean Paul Gaultier mask worn by Olivia Bee

Made with gold guipure lace with white feathers.

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Kate Spade New York mask worn by Pascal O’Neill

Kate Spade New York mask worn by Pascal O’Neill

“I have always loved owls and have been collecting them with a passion for many years. We have designed many special owl pieces for our collections—but never a mask until now.” —Deborah Lloyd, president and chief creative officer of Kate Spade New York

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Dolce & Gabbana mask worn by Tabitha Simmons

Dolce & Gabbana mask worn by Tabitha Simmons

Made of velvet, feathers, and multicolored crystal stones.

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Maison Michel mask worn by Rebecca Dayan

Maison Michel mask worn by Rebecca Dayan

“I was so excited about [this Halloween project]! I immediately thought of the Falbala lace hood that I created a couple of years ago for Maison Michel that Sasha Pivovarova had worn for a Maison Michel lookbook shot by Karl Lagerfeld. I got my inspiration from the Vogue covers from the 50s. They were often sumptuous and dramatic images of girls wearing hats and veils. I had also been thinking a lot about Diana Vreeland’s beautiful work at this time.”—Laetitia Crahay of Maison Michel

Made of lace with dark wilted flowers and a hand-painted touch of orange color.

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Julien d’Ys mask worn by Vogue’s Phyllis Posnick

Julien d’Ys mask worn by Vogue’s Phyllis Posnick

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Nike mask worn by Hilary Rhoda

Nike mask worn by Hilary Rhoda

“The mask is inspired from the Air Jordan 13 shoe. The Air Jordan 13 was inspired by Michael Jordan’s nickname ‘Black Cat.’”

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Poppin mask worn by Oscar O’Neill

Poppin mask worn by Oscar O’Neill

“‘The Big Grin’ mask is an ode to Poppin’s dedication to working happy in style.”

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Prabal Gurung mask worn by Sami Gayle

Prabal Gurung mask worn by Sami Gayle

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Hussein Chalayan mask worn by Vogue’s Sally Singer

Hussein Chalayan mask worn by Vogue’s Sally Singer

“This mask is about anonymity and the idea of protecting preciousness. The face is covered like a valuable piece of jewelry or furniture seen in grand homes preceding the long departure of their owners.” —Hussein Chalayan

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Shourouk mask worn by Leandra Medine

Shourouk mask worn by Leandra Medine

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Thakoon for Tasaki mask worn by Loan Chabanol

Thakoon for Tasaki mask worn by Loan Chabanol

“This mask is made of a lace veil with a pearl-encrusted skull à la a corpse bride.”—Thakoon Panichgul

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Pat McGrath mask worn by Vogue’s Hamish Bowles

Pat McGrath mask worn by Vogue’s Hamish Bowles

Pat McGrath (patmcgrathreal) on Twitter

Pat McGrath (patmcgrathreal) on Twitter

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Erickson Beamon worn by Ajak Deng

Erickson Beamon worn by Ajak Deng

“When you wear our butterfly, mask you have the ability to transform from the ordinary to the extraordinary.”—Karen Erickson

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Anndra Neen masks worn by Phoebe Stephens and Annette Stephens

Anndra Neen masks worn by Phoebe Stephens and Annette Stephens

“We have always been drawn to the elegance of Venetian carnival masks and were inspired by the 1920s British silent drama film Carnival.”

“Our father was an Olympic fencer, and we have always been inspired by the old fencing masks he used to wear, so we created our own modern take on it.”

Made of alpaca silver and brass

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Flower Girl mask worn by Denise Porcaro

Flower Girl mask worn by Denise Porcaro

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Tom Binns mask worn by Harley Viera-Newton

Tom Binns mask worn by Harley Viera-Newton

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Giulietta mask worn by Julia Garner

Giulietta mask worn by Julia Garner

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Philip Treacy mask worn by Toni Garrn

Philip Treacy mask worn by Toni Garrn

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Lanvin masks worn by Vogue’s Kelly Connor and Chelsea Zalopany

Lanvin masks worn by Vogue’s Kelly Connor and Chelsea Zalopany

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Manolo Blahnik mask worn by Rebecca Dayan

Manolo Blahnik mask worn by Rebecca Dayan

“This mask was inspired by Aubrey Beardsley’s illustrations for Oscar Wilde’sSalome.”—Manolo Blahnik

Made with pencil, Chinese ink, and Tombow markers on Blahnik’s sketchpad.

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Meadham Kirchhoff mask worn by Vogue’s Lynn Yaeger

Meadham Kirchhoff mask worn by Vogue’s Lynn Yaeger

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Carolina Herrera mask worn by Fei Fei Sun

Carolina Herrera mask worn by Fei Fei Sun

Made with rust velvet ribbon, jewels, feathers.

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Langley Fox mask worn by Jessica Hart

Langley Fox mask worn by Jessica Hart

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Hugo Guinness mask worn by Simon Rich

Hugo Guinness mask worn by Simon Rich

“Brown paper bags fit over all head sizes, and once decorated, they make attractive disguises. I never leave home without one.”—Hugo Guinness

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Stephen Jones “The Fashion Pussycat” mask worn by Grace Coddington

Stephen Jones “The Fashion Pussycat” mask worn by Grace Coddington

“Meow and purrr, isn’t that fashion enough for you?”—Stephen Jones

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Eloise Corr Danch mask worn by Fei Fei Sun

Eloise Corr Danch mask worn by Fei Fei Sun

The “Day of the Dead” mask consists of a papier-mâché base paired with satin ribbon, acrylic paint, pastel drawing paper, beading, ribbon, paillettes, Indian coin paillettes, rhinestones, armature wire, floral tape, and hemp chording.

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Olivier Theyskens mask worn by the designer

Olivier Theyskens mask worn by the designer

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Eugenia Kim mask worn by Elin Kling

Eugenia Kim mask worn by Elin Kling

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Opening Ceremony mask worn by Angel Haze

Opening Ceremony mask worn by Angel Haze

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Flour Shop edible chocolate mask worn by Amirah Kassem

Flour Shop edible chocolate mask worn by Amirah Kassem

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Warby Parker mask worn by Leandra Medine

Warby Parker mask worn by Leandra Medine

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Eugenia Kim mask worn by A$AP Ferg

Eugenia Kim mask worn by A$AP Ferg

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Kamo mask worn by Olivia Bee

Kamo mask worn by Olivia Bee

“The mask is a white fox. In Japan, a white fox is the incarnation of God.”—Kamo

Source: VOGUE

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Instagram & Twitter @tommybeautypro

Instagram & Twitter @tommybeautypro

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Related Blog Posts in Tommy Beauty Pro:

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Please click here and “LIKE” Tommy’s Make-up Artist Fan Page on Facebook!

Please click here and “LIKE” Tommy’s Make-up Artist Fan Page on Facebook!

Dior Couture Make-up Gallery

15 Jan
Christian Dior Couture Fall/Winter 2010

Christian Dior Couture Fall/Winter 2010

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If a make-up artist shopping at a cosmetics store is like a kid going to a candy store, then watching the make-up & hair at the Christian Dior Haute Couture is where a highly skilled fashion make-up wants to be! It’s exactly what I would love to do as a fashion make-up artist, to be working with the very top notch make-up artists at Dior’s fashion week backstage! I need to be there, please help me getting in there!

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Dior_couture_11_face·

This beauty post is a Christian Dior runway makeup retrospective, from 2001 to the present day. The makeup looks are mainly keyed by the guru Pat McGrath. This collection of Dior’s couture make-up will be a great inspiration for all fashion make-up artists. Please enjoy the galley of striking images!

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Dior AW 2011-2012-01

Dior AW 2011-2012-02

Dior AW 2011-2012-03

Dior AW 2011-2012-04

Dior AW 2011-2012-05

Dior AW 2011-2012-06

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Instagram & Twitter @tommybeautypro

Instagram & Twitter @tommybeautypro

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