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Change Your Look Fast: 5 Quick Makeup Fixes

8 May

 改頭換面:快速改妝的5個彩妝秘訣

PHOTOGRAPHY: MODEL BY DALLAS CUROW; PRODUCT BY CARLO MENDOZA

PHOTOGRAPHY: MODEL BY DALLAS CUROW; PRODUCT BY CARLO MENDOZA

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When life gets busy, it’s easy for a makeup routine to become, well, routine. We fall back on our tried and true methods and take the easy route just make it out the door on time! Luckily, we’re here to help you out of even the deepest beauty rut with a few tiny tweaks that make a big impact.

From brightening up a bold lip to switching up your bronzer application, these quick makeup fixes will breathe some new life into your daily beauty regimen without stealing valuable time.

當生活變得忙碌時,每天的日常彩妝很容易就會變成例行公事,而我們也就習慣性地畫回那一成不變的妝。很幸運地,我們在這裡幫大家整理出來小小調整過的美妝技巧,效果絕對會讓妳的妝容煥然一新。

從如何將高調大膽的唇色提亮增加光采,至古銅色修容彩妝品的使用技巧,妳在日常彩妝上會因為這篇文章教妳的快速改妝秘訣,能有新的驚喜,而且這些技巧在使用上也不會太花時間喔。

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PHOTOGRAPHY AND MAKEUP BY DALLAS CUROW; MODEL MAGGIE/THE ROCK AGENCY

Photo & Makeup by Dallas Curow; Model: Maggie/The Rock Agency

Makeup Quick Fix 1: Brighten Up a Bold Lip

Here’s a simple way to give your bold lip a 3D effect. Start by applying your favorite lipstick as usual, using a lip brush if you want extra precision.

To add fullness and dimension, add a lighter color from the same color family to the center of your lower lip. To intensify the effect, add a little to the center of your upper lip as well. To keep the effect, try to avoid pressing or rubbing your lips together in order to keep the colors from mixing.

快速改妝秘訣1:提亮增加高調大膽唇色的光采

這是一個如何讓妳大膽唇色增加3D立體效果的簡單方法。首先按照妳平常的方法塗上妳最喜愛的口紅,若要將唇妝上得更細致些,一定要搭配唇刷來上唇色。

要增加唇色的豐滿度和立體感,在下唇的中心部位加上另一同色系列較淺的顏色。若要更加強立體的效果,在上唇的中心部位也加上一些淺色。為了保持整體的效果,盡量避免上下雙唇相抿而造成唇色混著。

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PHOTOGRAPHY AND MAKEUP BY DALLAS CUROW; MODEL MAGGIE/THE ROCK AGENCY

Photo & Makeup by Dallas Curow; Model: Maggie/The Rock Agency

Makeup Quick Fix 2: Tightline Your Eyes

Tightlining your eyes is a great way to add subtle, sexy definition in just a few seconds— especially when your regular mascara is just not cutting it. Start by curling your eyelashes to open up your eyes.

Using a waterproof eyeliner, gently apply it to your waterline. Blink and squinch your eyes a few times to soften the look. Apply it all the way around for a more noticeable effect, or just do the upper waterline for a cool, no-makeup effect that magically thickens the look of your lashes.

快速改妝秘訣2:隱形內眼線

若妳平常使用的睫毛膏呈現的效果不佳時,「隱形內眼線」是一個在幾秒鐘能夠讓妳的眼妝增加自然細緻又帶有媚眼神的絕佳技巧。首先先使用睫毛夾將妳的睫毛夾捲翹,這會讓妳眼型放大、更加炯炯有神。

使用防水眼線筆,輕輕將其在妳的下眼瞼畫一條眼線。將眼睛眨幾次,這會讓眼線的線條更加柔和自然。若要有較明顯的深邃眼神效果,在眼睛上下的眼瞼都描繪眼線;或著妳要呈現出無妝容又俐落的效果,就只要在上內眼瞼(睫毛根部與其中間空隙處)補滿眼線,就會製造眼睛與睫毛一體成形的明眸。

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PHOTO & MAKEUP BY DALLAS CUROW; MODEL MAGGIE/THE ROCK AGENCY

Photo & Makeup by Dallas Curow; Model: Maggie/The Rock Agency

Makeup Quick Fix 3: Contour

With a few swipes of a single product, you can instantly define your bone structure. Start by setting your foundation with a translucent powder to create a smooth canvas.

To contour, take a cool brown, matte eyeshadow and buff it under your cheekbones, on your temples and under your jawline using a slanted contouring brush or small blush brush. For a bit more definition, shade lightly along the sides of your nose with a fluffy eyeshadow brush.

快速改妝秘訣3:輪廓修容

只要使用一項彩妝品在臉上揮一揮,妳馬上就會有根據臉骨結構而顯現出的臉部立體修容。首先先將上好底妝的臉,刷上一層薄薄的透明定妝粉使底妝服貼成為一幅平滑乾淨的畫布。

接下來要輪廓修容的部分是使用一個偏冷色系、霧狀的棕色眼影,用斜角輪廓刷( 或小型腮紅刷)以打蠟時所運用的旋轉方式移動刷子,將顏色上在臉部雙頰顴骨的下方、兩側的太陽穴以及下巴顎線部位。若要使輪廓修容效果更凹凸有致,也可以用蓬鬆的眼影刷輕輕沿著鼻子的兩側再打上些立體「 陰影」。

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PHOTO & MAKEUP BY DALLAS CUROW; MODEL MAGGIE/THE ROCK AGENCY

Photo & Makeup by Dallas Curow; Model: Maggie/The Rock Agency

Makeup Quick Fix 4: Change Up Your Bronzer Application

The most common way to apply bronzer is with a big fluffy brush, the conventional wisdom being that a larger brush better diffuses the product. While true, a large brush also means less control. For a more precise application, use a small stippling brush or fluffy eyeshadow brush and apply your bronzer first in specific areas. Draw two inverted triangles on the apples of your cheeks, then apply small streaks across the top of your forehead, along the sides of your nose, and even in the crease of your eyelid.

Then using a medium-sized brush, blend out the product for a natural, sun-kissed look that still has definition. Bonus Tip: use a cream or mousse formula of bronzer for the easiest blending.

快速改妝秘訣4:古銅色修容彩妝品的使用技巧

我們一般使用古銅色修容粉餅就是用一支大蜜粉刷將粉餅刷在臉上,因為傳統理論上來說大支的蜜粉刷比較容易將彩妝品均勻延展開來。話雖如此,大支的蜜粉刷有時也較難操作使用。為了要讓妝上得更細致,首先使用一支小型的鬆粉刷或蓬鬆的眼影刷在以下指定的部位塗上古銅色修容彩妝品:臉部雙頰上畫倒三角形,額頭上方畫一條橫線,沿著鼻子的兩側以及眼窩部位都各畫線條( 如上圖1)。

接著使用一支中型的刷子將畫上古銅修容彩妝的部位均勻推開來,它呈現出來的妝容會像是艷陽曬過的自然仿曬效果。彩妝技巧加強版:使用霜狀或慕絲狀的古銅色修容產品會更加容易均勻推色

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Photo & Makeup by Dallas Curow; Model: Maggie/The Rock Agency

Photo & Makeup by Dallas Curow; Model: Maggie/The Rock Agency

Makeup Quick Fix 5: Eyeshadow Highlight

Here’s a super simple way to brighten up your usual eyeshadow look. Start by applying your base colour across the lid, using a matte product.

Instead of highlighting the inner corner of your eye, apply a light-reflecting shade to the center of your eyelid. As you go about your day, every time you blink, the light will hit the shimmer on your lid, giving your eyes a little extra sparkle.

快速改妝秘訣5:眼影打亮

這是一個超簡單的方式,能迅速提亮妳日常眼部彩妝的光采。 首先使用一支霧狀的眼影塗抹在眼皮上。

與其在眼睛內角部位打亮,在眼皮中間的部位抹上具有光澤效果的淡色眼影,每當妳一眨眼,光與你的打亮眼影即會產生出耀眼星燦之美。

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From Runway to Vanity: the 6 Must-Know Summer Make-up Key Words

5 May

從T台到化妝台必知的6大夏妝關鍵字

T台上的流行與色彩,總是會引起、激發出彩妝上的靈感與發想,但秀場妝容要如何轉換成為日常妝感,看看怎麼見招拆招。
The trends and colors of fashion runways are always great inspirations and stimulation for make-up looks, but how do you translate the fashion runway looks into your daily make-up routines in the summer?

alberta-ferretti-spring-2012-dewy-makeup

Vionnet Backstage at Paris Fashion Week Spring Summer 2013 Collections

estee lauder idealist  even skintone illuminator 21. 肌膚除了透,還要淨、更要光

夏天底妝贏在輕薄、透亮,妝前保養很重要!美容專家柳燕說到:「透過指壓的淋巴按摩,特別在於耳朵下方、兩頰、太陽穴等位置可促進循環、趕走壞氣色。」啟動肌膚循環後,可擦上具潤色效果的防曬隔離霜,做到第一層膚色修飾,接下來使用粉底量越少越好,以眼下、兩頰三角區為主,其餘用蜜粉輕輕掃過,妳會發現粉量越少的輕盈底妝,無須太擔心脫妝問題。

  • 夏天妝前修飾乳很重要,Dior韓國特約彩妝師Sung Ji-ahn建議,「擔心毛孔粗大,先擦上可讓毛孔柔焦的修飾乳,想要透亮,可帶有珠光效果的飾底乳。」
  • 全臉使用粉底絕對會讓妝脫的嚴重,上粉底前,先用遮瑕膏解決黑眼圈或膚色不均問題,再刷上淡淡的底妝。
  • 海棉或粉底刷是夏天輕薄底妝的好幫手,只要將粉底用量集中在臉中央、鼻翼兩側,指腹無法做到的輕薄與拋光效果,海棉或粉底刷都能輕鬆達到。

1. Pure Skin with Radiance

The importance of summer base make-up is all about sheerness, radiance and preparation of skin.  “Through massage in the area just underneath the ears, cheeks and temples with your fingertips, it helps to promote circulation of energy,” says beauty expert Yan Liu. After the facial massage, you can apply tinted sun blocks, it helps to balance your skin’s color correction; then use a light amount of foundation focusing just in the area underneath the eyes and on the cheeks. Finish the rest of the face with a dust of powder, the less the powder, the sheerer the base make-up, and you don’t have to worry much about make-up wearing off during the day.

  • “Primer is especially important for summer make-up,” says Sung Ji-ahn, Appointed Make-up Artist for Dior (Korea). “If you have larger pores, use primers that can minimize the appearance of pores; if you want radiance on the skin, you can use primers with glowing pigments.”
  • If you use foundation all over your face, you will have the problem of make-up wearing off during the day. Before you apply foundation, first use concealer to cover under eye darkness or other pigment discolorations, and then apply foundation lightly with a foundation brush.
  • Make-up sponges and foundation brushes are your best friends for summer’s sheer make-up application. Apply foundation mostly in the center of your face and both sides of the nose, then blend it with a sponge or brush, this will give you a result of light and sheer foundation effects that can’t be achieved by using your fingertips.

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blue eyeshadow

BlueEyes2. 神秘藍眼影最夯

對於藍眼影總是有種害怕出錯的疑慮存在,不過這可是今夏潮流,建議可使用具海軍藍色調較為深沉的眼影,取代天空藍、淺藍色系,妳會發現原來藍色眼影讓眼睛深邃的效果還不錯。

2. Mystical Blue Eye Shadow is IN

We always worry about making mistakes when using a blue color eye shadow, but blue color is actually IN this summer. We recommend darker shades of blue such as navy blue to replace lighter shades such as sky blue, you will find blue eye shadow will give you a deep-set eye effect.

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Dior 2014 SS L-or Show-07

Christian-Dior-beauty-fall-couture-2013

3. 閃不停的金屬光

不要害羞,夏天好好「往臉上貼金」!不過要怎麼貼的漂亮,秘訣就在使用金色眼影或膏狀眼影,均勻的塗抹在眼褶上,單一色系在刷上漆黑的睫毛,金與黑的完美結合,漂亮!

3. Gold Bling-Blings

Don’t be shy to use gold colors on your face this summer! How to make it look pretty? The trick is to apply a gold color eye shadow (powder or cream formula) evenly on the eyelid, then brush mascara onto the lashes in pitch-black, the combo of gold and black: beauty!

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Graphic Eye Liner Looks

chanel-backstage-beauty-Cover-600x400

4. 創意十足趣味眼線

可用眼線膠筆或眼線液筆畫出不論是20年代或60年代誇張或帶有魅惑感的眼線線條,當然妳也可多練練秀場上的創意貓眼,會有意想不到、增加大眼的眼神效果。

4. Creative Eye Lines Shapes

Use an eye pencil or liquid eye liner to draw liners that look like the 20’s or the 60’s style to get full dramatic, alluring effect. Of course you can also practice drawing that catty, feline flick eyeliners as seen on the fashion runways, and you will be surprised with the effect of the enlarged eye looks.

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michael-kors-6

5. 光澤紅暈雙頰最迷人

模擬運動完後散發出的自然紅暈光澤最讓人愛,所以可看到所推出的夏妝新腮紅,以漸層感的腮紅盤,刷出自然的暈染感,不會假假的、還會被人稱讚氣色怎麼那麼好!

  • 腮紅膏也有異曲同工的效果,彩妝師Vincent建議,沾取腮紅膏可先用在手背上沾一沾,再用指腹輕拍,從笑肌往外推開。
  • 額頭中央、鼻樑中間與下巴也可沾取一點腮紅膏,創造曬傷感。

5. Glowing Red Cheeks are Charming

You know that red cheeks you get after you exercise? Yes, that’s exactly the red cheek color palette for this summer; it gives a gradient of red without looking fake. Natural glow!

  • “Cream blush will help you achieve the same effect,” says make-up artist Vincent. “Take some cream blush on the back of your hand, pad it lightly on the apple of your cheek and blend it outward.”
  • You can also use a tiny bit of cream blush and apply on the center of your forehead, bridge of your nose and the chin area, it creates a sunburn effect appearance.

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orange-lipstick

Cara-Delevigne-Orange-Lip-High-

6. 啾出鮮嫩多汁的螢光橘唇

螢光橘唇可說是抓住眼光的利器!與過去的橘色唇膏不同之處,螢光色調的橘色亮度與飽和度更高,對於提亮膚色效果也更好,不論哪種膚色都好駕馭。

  • 想復古味重一點,那就用唇線筆加強唇形;融合一點霧面唇膏也不錯。
  • 使用這類亮色唇膏,平常護唇的保養動作,做得徹底點,唇紋才不會出現過深問題。

6. Kisses with Neon Orange Lip Color

Neon orange color lips will put you in the center of attention! Unlike the orange color lipsticks used in the past, neon shades give better effects in brightness and intensity; in addition, it also helps to brighten up your skin, regardless of your skin color.

  • Retro? Use lip pencil to emphasize the contour of your lip shape, and it’s not a bad idea to mix a matte texture lipstick.
  • When using brighter lipstick color like this, it is essential to take care of your lips on a regular basis, so the lines on the lip surface can be diminish.

 

Source: VOGUE (Taiwan)

Chinese-English Translation: TommyBeautyPro

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Dick Page: The Make-up Step-by-Step on Magazine Editorials are Meaningless

26 Apr

makeup artist Dick Page for Shiseido (2)

彩妝大師Dick Page的化妝3觀點:「雜誌上的彩妝步驟很沒意義。」

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就像超模何穗Sui He所說,「我真的覺得資生堂Shiseido國際櫃時尚色繪彩粧總監Dick Page很隨意。譬如我們畫口紅時都用一點點,小心翼翼的,他不是,他會將好幾種顏色的口紅拿在手上調一調,變出新的顏色,或是將好幾個顏色融在一起搭出新的層次感。我都稱他魔法師,一直變出新的東西來,一副無所謂的樣子,卻很有創造力,是個天馬行空的藝術家。」

“I truly think Shiseido’s International Artistic Director Dick Page’s style is very casual. When we wear lipsticks, we always try to do it very carefully by using it just a little bit, but he doesn’t do it like that. He would always create a brand new color by blending many different lipstick colors on his hand, or mixing them to create a new layering of color. I call him the Magician because he always creates new things in an effortless way, he is full of creativity, and he is a true abstract artist,” says Chinese supermodel Sui He.

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Dick Page and Sui He

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這位彩妝魔法師Dick Page為資生堂Shiseido國際櫃時尚色繪彩粧2014春妝系列打造全新的尚質亮眼柔焦筆、尚質瓷釉蜜唇彩,並為大受好評的尚質瓷釉蜜唇膏、尚質晶漾眼采霜增添6款新色,這些顏色都是Dick Page平時繪畫創作,或是在旅途上拍照,特別有感的色彩。Dick Page大力推薦眼影霜和唇彩,並且建議平時挑選妝容顏色時,先挑選唇彩的顏色,再依照唇妝來決定臉上其他部位顏色的選擇。淺色的眼影霜用手指指腹就可以直接上妝,深色的則使用刷具來顯現飽和色彩。

For Shiseido’s 2014 Spring Color Collection, make-up magician Dick Page created brand new products Sheer Eye Zone Corrector and Lacquer Gloss, he also decorated the collection by adding 6 new colors in Lacquer Gloss and Shimmering Cream Eye Color products. The colors were inspired from Page’s own painting creations as well as pictures taken during his traveling. Page highly recommends the cream eye colors and lip colors. When deciding on the make-up looks, he also suggests choosing the lips color first, and then decide other colors for the face accordingly. You can use the tip of your finger to apply light shades of the cream eye color, and use brush application for the darker shades for color intensity.

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Shiseido Cosmetics 2014-03

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談到彩妝的創作靈感,Dick Page有3個觀點要告訴大家:

Speaking of make-up artistry creation, Page shares his 3 views:

1. 化妝沒有固定的步驟

對我來說,每次的上妝和卸妝都是不同的感受,像我在維多利亞的秘密Victoria’s Secret內衣大秀為後台模特而化妝時,是將唇膏當頰彩使用,最後才上底妝。化妝不該有制式的規定,就像煮飯的時候,你邊品嘗邊加入調味料般,哪裡少了什麼就補一點進去;或是像聽音樂的時候也沒有一定要聽到最後,你可以隨時切斷再跳到下一首。

1. Make-up Application Has No Set Steps

To me, it always feels different every time I apply or remove make-up. For example, when I worked backstage at the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show, I used lipstick as cheek colors on the models, and I applied foundation in the very last step of the make-up application. Make-up should not have a set routine just as if you are cooking, you would add seasonings as you cook, wherever is needed, you would add more seasoning; or it’s as if you are listening to music, you don’t have to listen the whole song until the end, you may fast forward to the next track whenever you like.

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Shiseido Cosmetics 2014-02

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2. 沒有所謂的彩妝重點

臉部是一個整體,當你在笑的時候,並不是只有嘴巴在動,而是整個五官表情都會牽連,眼睛也會笑,因此我沒有辦法說哪個五官是重點。之前也有人問過我相同的問題,我回答她說,你可以想像你的眼睛到餐廳,嘴巴到其他地方嗎?所以,化妝全臉都是重點,沒有分別。

2. There is No Focused Feature in Make-up

Face is a whole, when you smile, it’s not just the moth that is moving, all of your facial features are connected so your eyes smile too, thus I cannot tell you which of your facial feature is the most important focus for make-up. Someone had asked me a similar question before, I told her: “can you imagine your eyes are at the restaurant, and mouth in other places?” Therefore, all features of the face is the focus, there should be no differences.

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Shiseido Cosmetics 2014-04

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3. 不要跟隨潮流趨勢

因為每張臉都是不一樣的,對我來說雜誌上的彩妝步驟很沒意義,最好的方法就是嘗試,just play。化妝是好玩有趣的事情,我不喜歡趨勢這說法,彩妝應該是要能激發女人對色彩的喜好,了解自己的優點並找到最適合的,而不是專注在每季的流行。

3. Don’t Just Follow the Trend

Not all faces are the same, so the make-up step-by-step demonstration in magazine editorials are meaningless to me, “just play” with make-up is the best way to do it. Make-up is a very fun thing, I don’t particularly like to use “trend” when it comes to make-up. It should stimulate women’s preferences in color, to understand the best about themselves in order to find the most suitable products, but not to focus just on the trends every season.

 

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Shi He for Sheseidi

時尚色繪代言人中國黑馬超模─何穗:演繹春色眼唇之美

2013年春天,資生堂國際櫃時尚色繪系列首度啟用中國超模何穗,表現亮眼的超模何穗再度與資生堂國際櫃合作,展示2014春夏粧容。由資生堂國際櫃彩粧總監Dick Page及內部高層親自挑選的何穗,符合資生堂具現代感、國際感的審美標準。

何穗生於1990年,來自中國溫州,是近年中國竄起的超模之一,2011年秋冬時裝發表會上,成為首位為Ralph Lauren開場的亞裔模特兒,從此得到了國際間的關注。自此,她經常於紐約、倫敦、米蘭、巴黎伸展台上為時尚品牌走秀,諸如Ralph Lauren、Chanel、Tom Ford、Donna Karan、Michael Kors、Oscar de la Renta、Bottega Veneta、Dolce & Gabbana、Alexander McQueen、Lanvin、 Hermès、Jean Paul Gaultier、Christian Dior等知名精品品牌,更登上2012年美國內衣大廠「維多利亞的秘密」年度時裝秀伸展台。何穗事業版圖擴及全球,可在各國的時尚雜誌窺見她的身影,甚至中國Vogue、日本Vogue、W雜誌、V magazine、i-D等雜誌封面,以及Ralph Lauren、KARL by Karl Lagerfeld、Lane Crawford、H&M等平面廣告。她目前往返於紐約與北京兩地。

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Shiseido Makeup by Dick Page on Sui He – Soft 2014 Spring/Summer

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