韓系美膚之密: 完美淨膚10步驟
By: India-Jewel Jackson of ELLE.com
English-Chinese Translation (英中翻譯): Tommy Beauty Pro
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You’d be hard-pressed to come across a Korean woman who doesn’t have flawless, hauntingly beautiful skin. Ever wondered why? It’s because Koreans tend to view caring for their complexion as the ultimate investment, worthy of not only their money, but even more so their time. In fact, many perform an intricate 10-step cleansing and moisturizing routine—every single night. Charlotte Cho, curator and co-founder of Soko Glam, an e-commerce destination that retails popular Korean beauty products stateside, gives ELLE.com insight on how to get perfect skin in 10 (steps, that is).
妳可曾覺得奇怪，為什麼妳認識的每個韓國女生都擁有完美無瑕，又讓人覺得精緻美麗的肌膚？想知道為什麼嗎？就是因為韓國女生都會將美膚保養作為她們最的重要的投資，這項投資不僅僅是金錢方面，更是時間上的投資。她們每晚都會作10項精緻的美膚保養步驟。夏洛特 (Charlotte Cho)是一家風靡韓國的網路美容產品銷售—Soko Glam公司的負責人兼聯合創辦人，她將告訴讀者們如何達到完美肌膚的10步驟。
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Step 1: Prep and Pre-Cleanse
The first half of the ever-popular Korean “double cleanse” method involves removing the day’s BB cream and blush with a nutrient-rich towelette to erase every trace of eye makeup with a liquid remover. Next, draw out sebum and bacteria using a gentle oil cleanser and lukewarm water. “Oil eliminates impurities without drying out your skin,” shares Cho.
步驟1：卸妝潔膚的準備
廣受歡迎的韓國「雙層潔膚」方法的前半部分，就是先使用含有滋潤肌膚成分的潔膚膜卸下在臉上一天的BB霜和腮紅，並沾上卸妝液將眼妝部分撤底擦拭乾淨。接下來使用含有溫和成分的淨妝油，搭配溫水將毛細孔內分泌出的油脂和細菌清除，因為淨妝油可以消除臉上的汙垢，並且不會令肌膚水份流失。
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Step 2: And Then Cleanse Again
Korean women believe thorough, proper cleansing is the key to a radiant, acne-free complexion, which is precisely why they opt to cleanse again—with a mild cream or foaming cleanser. “Don’t rub,” says Cho. “Soft circular motions do the trick.”
第2步：再次清洗潔面
韓國女生認為徹底、正確的清洗潔面是創造出光、白、亮無暇美膚的重要關鍵，這也正是為什麼她們會要再次使用霜狀或泡沫型的洗面乳來再次清潔。夏洛特清洗臉部的伎倆是：「別用擦拭的方式，輕柔地在臉上用手指做打圈的動作就可以非常有效地清潔」。
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Step 3: Buff, Buff, Exfoliate
The supplest skin is completely devoid of any dead skin cells collected on the surface, so gently slough it off—and don’t forget to do your pout, too. However, scrubbing your entire face every single night is nothing short of overkill. “It’s better to focus your efforts on areas that really need it, like visible pores on your cheeks or blackheads on your nose,” suggests Cho.
第3步：煥膚去角質
無論是再柔軟的肌膚，臉上一定都會新成代謝而產生出的死皮細胞，所以要以去角質的方式輕輕地將死皮清除（別忘記去角質時的臉部表情要是板著臉的）。每晚去角質其實也不算是矯枉過正，夏洛特的建議是：「去角質時也不需要整張臉，集中在於真正需要去角質的部位：例如是臉頰上毛細孔較大，或是鼻頭上有黑頭粉刺的區域才是重點。」
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Step 4: Tighten Up With Toner
We’re not talking about your average, everyday, chock-full-of-alcohol toner found in the Western hemisphere; Korean variations are marketed as a hydrating yet clarifying—wait for it—cleanse. “It removes any residual residue from the prior three steps, while soothing and restoring your pH balance,” explains Cho. “Plus, it preps your skin to better absorb what comes next.”
第4步：升級版化妝水
我們現在討論的不是歐美市場上說的一般含有酒精成分的化妝水，韓國的升級版是不但保濕又可以清潔的化妝水，對的，它有清潔顏面的作用。它不但可以將前幾個步驟所殘留下的汙垢再次一網打清，又可以舒緩肌膚、恢復pH酸鹼平衡，另外的功用是它可以為下個步驟做更好吸收的準備。
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Step 5: Essence Is Essential
Often regarded as the utmost essential part of the Korean skincare regimen (aside from double cleansing, of course), essence is a nourishing liquid concentrate that effectively enhances skin’s cellular renewal process, leading to an increase in elasticity and firmness, as well as a brighter complexion. “Once I spritz it on, I gently tap it into the skin to assist with absorption,” details Cho.
第5步：精華液是美膚的聖品
往往被視為韓國美膚保養（當然除了「雙層潔膚」的步驟以外）的最重要的環節就是使用濃縮保養品—精華液來有效提升肌膚細胞的新成代謝，從過程中去增加肌膚的彈性和緊實度，同時提升更光亮煥彩的膚色。夏洛特使用的細節技巧是：將噴出的精華液輕輕拍打在臉部，以將其吸收入皮膚裡。
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Step 6: Add an Ampoule
“Basically it’s a condensed, vitamin-rich version of essence with a much slicker consistency,” Cho points out. What’s more, every single drop packs a mighty powerful punch. “Its purpose is to directly address any existing or potential anti-aging issues, like dulling skin, uneven tone, or loss of collagen and elasticity.”
第6步：添加安瓶(高濃度精華)
「基本上，安瓶是精華液的濃縮、精純版，它富含維生素而且質感更是滑潤」，夏洛特說明。更重要的是，安瓶裏的每滴都具有強大有力的功效，「其目的是直接針對任何肌膚現有或潛在的抗衰老問題來做改善，例如肌膚暗啞、膚色不均勻、膠原蛋白流失或肌膚鬆弛…等等。」
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Step 7: Massage it, Patch it, Mask it
Here’s where you would typically apply one of those super-popular facial sheet masks, but Cho recommends applying it only two-to-three times a week for maximum effectiveness. On your off-nights, supplement with a five-minute facial massage to boost circulation, or opt for targeted treatments in the form of wrinkle-fighting collagen eye patches and an utterly adorable hydrating lip mask. “Korean cosmetic companies definitely think outside of the box when it comes to packaging,” reveals Cho. “Quality and design go hand-in-hand.”
第7步：按摩、眼膜、加唇膜
超人氣的面膜該如何使用呢？夏洛特建議一個星期使用２－３次就可發揮面膜的最大功效了。在妳不用上班的夜晚，給臉部做足五分鐘的按摩以促進血液循環，選擇使用抗老、抗皺的膠原蛋白的眼膜，甚至是俏皮可愛的保濕唇凍膜…等等，來做局部性的治療。「韓國美妝公司在設計產品包裝上都具有創意思維，產品設計與品質的相連關係是絕對密不可分的」，夏洛特道出。
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Step 8: Tap On the Eye Cream
Since prevention is better than a cure, keep fine lines, puffiness, and dark circles at bay with an intensive eye cream. The trick is not to tug or pull the skin when applying—instead, liberally tap it around the entire eye. “This ensures that the thin, delicate area stays super-moisturized so it won’t dry out and create even more fine lines,” adds Cho.
步驟8 ：點抹眼霜
由於預防勝於治療，改善眼部細紋、魚尾紋、浮腫和黑眼圈…等問題就是要使用加強版的眼霜。擦眼霜的訣竅就是輕輕的點抹眼睛周圍一圈，而不是塗抹時拉扯眼周部位。「這方法能防止更多細紋的增長，而且可讓輕薄、細膩的眼部周圍保持超級滋潤」，夏洛特說。
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Step 9: Emulsify Yourself
Rewind. Remember that comprehensive cleansing session that took place in the beginning? You’ll need to replenish your skin’s hydration levels with a lightweight emulsion, which is what we’d call a facial moisturizer. “Use your fingertips to lightly massage the product into your face to promote circulation,” specifies Cho. “And don’t forget your neck!”
第9步：滋潤保濕
請先倒帶。還記得一開始那幾道卸妝潔膚的步驟嗎？你需要使用清爽、滋潤又不油膩乳液的來補充你的皮膚的水分，那就是保濕乳液。夏洛特的使用方法是：「用指尖將保濕乳液輕輕地在臉上按摩來促進血液循環，脖子的部位也要喔！」
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Step 10: Slather on the Sleeping Pack
For the grand ‘gorgeous, glowy skin’ finale, we come full circle and double up once again. Smooth on a second layer of moisture with an ultra-rich night cream or a sleeping pack. Confused? “Think of it as a cream mask that locks in the emulsion and keeps your face hydrated throughout the night,” concludes Cho.
步驟10 ：大量使用的睡眠型保濕面膜
若要使肌膚擁有那「鑽白透亮」的美好結局，經過了一番周折後，我們還要再次使用之前提過的「雙層」護膚技巧。在臉上再塗上一層具高滋潤度的晚霜，或使用睡眠型保濕面膜。感到困惑嗎？夏洛特的總結是：「妳可以把它想作為睡眠型的乳霜面膜，有鎖水補濕的功能，所以妳的臉整晚都水分充足。」
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