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Lyne Desnoyers, Make-up Director for M·A·C Cosmetics, speaks exclusively to Vogue.fr about the biggest beauty trends at Paris Fashion Week. Scroll through the gallery for a sneak peek of the seven key make-up trends of Spring/Summer 2013.
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The Modern Smoky Eye at Chloé
The Modern Smoky Eye at Chloé
“Defined but without sharp angles, best describes this version of the smoky eye. More than ever, eye color follows the natural bone structure without completely transforming the eyes. Less a concentration on glamour and more of a spotlight on a fresh approach, mixed with minimalism.”
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Primary Colors at Gareth Pugh
Primary Colors at Gareth Pugh
“Taken to the max, a matte primary red stains not only the lips, but also the whole eye. The color was obtained from copper and scorched-earth pigments sprinkled onto the brush in powder form, leaving the underlying clean skin visible through an intense haze of matte red.”
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Coppery Lashes at Véronique Branhquino
Coppery Lashes at Véronique Branhquino
“Simplicity and boldness reigns this make-up look. Taking after the designer’s collection, copper liner highlighted lashes, matching copper-toned nails and jewelry that saturated the runway, married with a thick black smudge of liner on the inner eye.”
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Color Block at A. F. Vandervorst
Color Block at A. F. Vandervorst
“Moving away from a color art approach, organic colors meet the future on the runway. An all-encompassing black prevailed, for an intense gaze paired with extreme lashes created with charcoal liner mixed with classic black at the root. Softer dark pigments were added to the brows for the finishing touch.”
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Lustrous Lips at Haider Ackermann
Lustrous Lips at Haider Ackermann
“Mother of pearl was sprinkled directly on the lip above an unanticipated pure plum color using a short, flexible brush. In a theatrical look, brows were kept straight paired with nude color on the face. In some ways, this look was a quintessential summary of the upcoming trends.”
Make-up Key: Stephane Marais
Face: M·A·C Face & Body Foundation, Prep & Prime Finishing Powder, Cream Colour Base Shell, Iridescent Powder Silver Dusk
Eyes: M·A·C Eyeshadows in Coquette, Concrete and Brun
“Once again this season, white flirts with powdery platinum. The wet-eyelid look was anything but unintentional, with a slash of metallic silver liner as the look’s focal point. Pigment was blurred into the hollow of the eye, drawing attention to the total absence of mascara, for an extreme, futuristic eye.”
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Rectangular Eyebrows at Lourenco
Rectangular Eyebrows at Lourenco
“The star of last season, eyebrows take on epic proportions for the upcoming spring season. With a long line pulling the gaze outwards, a natural curve helps avoid a boyish look. Match the brows with a high ponytail to give your look lift and depth.”
OpenStudio is an art/design studio where high school students come to develop strong, creative and personal art portfolios for applying to art and design universities. They specialize in fashion design, graphic design, interior design, fine art, industrial design and architecture design.
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Designer: Jamie Yu | Model: Kirsten | Make-up: Tommy Chiang
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The studio is led by Creative Directors Alex Lu and Angela Chen. Having the valuable work experiences with top New York designers such as: Anna Sui, Marc Jacob, Carolina Herrera, Angela is her own brand fashion designer of Or by Angela Chen.
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Designer: Tracy Wong | Model: Samira | Make-up: Tommy Chiang
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Once again, Tommy Beauty Pro team was honoured to be invited by the OpenStudio creative directors to join the team to create and execute make-up looks to their designer students’ creative pieces in October 2012.
Each of the designer students: Jamie Yu, Tracy Yun Wong and Sherry Guo, spent months of hard work at the studio to create their art work; and this particular piece is one of their most exciting creations as they get to work with industry professionals (fashion photographer, agency models, pro make-up artist & hair stylist, videographer) and get involved on how their work is done to meet industry standard from start to finish–the amazing art piece at the end always get published in fashion/art magazine locally and internationally.
Designer: Sherry Guo | Model: Kayla | Make-up: Tommy Chiang
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In the past, our collaborative art/fashion work have been published on magazines internationally in New York (USA), Vancouver (BC, Canada), and Taiwan ROC. Not only the designer students were able to learn about the design process at the studio, this project is a real learning experience to prepare them for the future–to be able to know how to search for fashion inspiration, put ideas together into a real fashion piece, know how colours/shapes/texture work in combination, and to train in communication and coordination skills with the industry professionals.
Please enjoy the great behind-the-scenes video capture by Vancouver videographer Thomas Tan!
For make-up artistry, the designer students gathered ideas from beauty/fashion magazines and were inspired by M•A•C PRO’s Autumn/Winter 2012 Trend Report, where the make-up looks were created at major fashion runways in New York, Milan, London and Paris… for the looks we did on the models, three make-up trends were used on three different models respectively. For a full A/W 2012 Make-up Trend Report (20123秋冬彩妝趨勢解析), please check out my previous blog post by clicking here.
“It’s about timeless classics done in a modern way – these are elements of makeup that never go out of fashion but simply get reinvented.” – Terry Barber, Director of Makeup Artistry. These looks ultimately carry a sophistication that elevates them beyond trend, becoming instead a new set of modern Classics.
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Designer: Sherry Guo | Model: Kayla | Make-up: Tommy Chiang
“We’ve turned the light around this season – it’s now less about highlights and more about the depth of a contour, a shaded face that is slightly hollow and haunted but extremely beautiful and not alien.” – Andrew Gallimore, Key Artist AW12 Fashion Week.
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“To put in bone structure is a very knowing art form and the real mastery of being a makeup artist.” – Terry Barber, Director of Makeup Artistry.
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Designer: Tracy Wong | Model: Samira | Make-up: Tommy Chiang
“This season isn’t about liner being classic. It’s about an etching, about it creating a geometry on the face.” – Gordon Espinet, M∙A∙C Vice President of Makeup Artistry. While these lines are fragmented in their structure, by respecting the architecture of the eye shape, they tailor and enhance the face.
The key reference points: Oriental precision (indeed, fashion’s collective eye seems trained on the East) and equestrian elegance – refined, original and intriguing, the new updated liner is “all about a trick of the eye that is very artistic. It’s about taking a classic gesture and reworking it into something non-conformist.”
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Designer: Jamie Yu | Model: Kirsten | Make-up: Tommy Chiang
1. #188 Small Duo Fibre Brush – dual fiber brush with both natural and synthetic fibers to apply moisturizer and cream foundation on the skin
Face
2. Complete Comfort Creme – An ultra-creamy moisturizer, high-comfort wear, provide sensitive skin with the soothing benefits associated with its calming plant-and marine-based formula.
3. Prep + Prime Natural Radiance– silky gel face primer was applied on the skin to control oil and promote smooth texture, the formula disappears upon application, resulting in a beautiful glow.
4. Full Coverage Foundation – was mixed with Care Blends Essential Oil. Great finish for camera!
5. Care Blends Essential Oil – mixed with Full Coverage Foundation, buffed gently into skin with the dual fiber brush for a flawless skin finish in opaque coverage.
Eyes
6. Rose Gold Pigment was mixed with Mixing Medium (Shine) – (both M∙A∙C PRO products) were used to create that geometric, rectangular shapes around the eyes on model Kirsten
7.Neo-Orange Pigment – highly concentrated neon orange colour was applied on model Samira’s eye to give a pop of bright colour!
Lips
8. Lipstick “Viva Glam I” & “Russian Red” – two classic red lip colours were mixed to use on model Kayla’s lips to give that sensual appeal
Face Lace
A special Face Lace “Nouveau Mask” by Phyllis Cohen (UK) was used on model Kayla to create a “mystic” aura on top of being sensual.
M·A·C Cosmetics, the professional makeup company and makeup artist brand, expresses its support of the fashion world by supporting makeup artists at over 100 shows during this year’s international Autumn/Winter Collections. Known for quality products and the expertise of the M·A·C PRO TEAM, M·A·C continues to be at the forefront of trends by working in the trenches with designers, creators and grassroots organizations.
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AUTUMN/WINTER 2012 TRENDS
THE WOMAN AND THE WORLD…Frills, fripperies, flirtatious fun have taken a step back this season, as beauty has pulled into line with fashion in its key proposal: the question of how a modern, intelligent, pulled together woman wants to look as she operates in the world today.
It’s pragmatic. It’s considered. And certainly aware that a real interest lies where world cultures come together. Hence a culturally diverse and dynamic mood underpins AW2012, with the craft and art of beauty being explored and celebrated in myriad takes on global makeup gestures. It’s not so much a culture clash as a cultural collaboration, about interpreting familiar beauty accents through international eyes. Less important than the specific origins of these looks (from ancient Japan to the Italian Renaissance, British beauties to Slavic maidens…) is the idea of a new vocabulary of beauty reference points that are truly global in their vision.
Equally important as a world view is a sense of structure. Whether that’s done by creating a compelling bone structureor by anchoring the face with an extremely tailored feature – a red lip, a graphic black eye, or a more masterful brow (the definitive feature of AW2012), these looks project a cleansed approach to glamour that is at once timeless yet uncompromisingly modern by virtue of the execution exhibiting an attitude of knowing, womanly strength.
Yet nothing about this beauty is unattainably hard or severe. This season’s femininity references a certain sense of the masculine (those straight brows and that sculpted bone structure), but we’ve moved on from the (now old) idea of the “androgynous”. Sure, the international woman of AW2012 is no champion of overt sexiness, but don’t equate her lack of purposeful provocation with looking boyish. AW2012 is very much about a woman, but one wise and masterful enough with her style to play with a more controlled contemporaneity.
Indeed, the passé pastiche of jet set, “expensive” style seems vulgar compared to something more authentic and real. “Luxury is not the same as ostentation,” confirms Lyne Desnoyers. “The opulence this season is in the details, which is, of course, the pure definition of chic.”… A WORLDLY WOMAN INDEED.
The question of quintessential beauty – what manner of makeup provides a prototype for a modern woman – is posed this season, with myriad looks taking a purely pragmatic approach to the solution. The answer?
Healthy, sensible, honed, balanced, understated, elegant, effortless and groomed… The new blueprints for contemporary makeup magnetize through their sheer beauty rather than any trickery, with a structure that is always sensible and sensitively applied (even when colours and textures project a more avant-garde edge). It’s a somewhat rural approach to city makeup. While the inspiration takes an equestrian, aristocratic, “country” angle, the impeccable application is definitely “town”. “I’m calling it Sense and Sensibility makeup,” explains Lyne Desnoyers.
“It’s about timeless classics done in a modern way – these are elements of makeup that never go out of fashion but simply get reinvented.” – Terry Barber, Director of Makeup Artistry for M·A·C Cosmetics
The perfect cleansing focus of a lip (make it nothing but a Russian red). The mastery of a gentle outdoors flush (must be seamless). Studies in what constitutes a modern bare face (p.s. it’s a fuller brow). Explorations in how to wear soft colour (cooler tones, subtler, fresher washes – a “Nordic approach to neutrals,” says Terry).
These looks ultimately carry a sophistication that elevates them beyond trend, becoming instead a new set of modern Classics.
A globally influenced independent woman is channelled this season, but think less “boho- festival goer” and more “grown-up gypsy”. There’s a certain eccentricism, but this world traveller is honed, not haphazard. “The bohemian spirit of this season has nothing to do with grungy girls,” agrees Lyne Desnoyers. “It’s more about the fantasy of an elegant eccentric, a woman who is ornate yet has exquisite taste.” “She’s a global wanderer who organically picks up on beauty elements during her travels, she hasn’t done a lot of homework on how to emulate the exact makeup of a particular culture,” explains Gordon Espinet of the fact that these looks are not culture-cloned makeup pastiches.
From stained soulful tints through to mesmerizing jewel-like metallics, it’s a trend that focuses on playing with the proportion and depth of an eye (perhaps bringing in a rustically tinted lip for balance). Call it a contemporary rethink on how to do “smoky”.
“Fashion wants to revisit a smoldery eye, but the issue is in devising one that isn’t trashy or retro,” ponders Terry Barber. Hence the focus on a mascara-less lash, and colours with a more antiquated patina and diffuse application than those dripping in jet-setting luxuriousness. Key shades? Those that pull inspiration from roaming the world – desert rocks, sunset and sepia stains, driftwood browns, weathered tans, sand, minerals, pastoral shades of plum and cranberry, metallic greys from asphalt and concrete through to slate and charcoal – all are employed to give a soulful depth to lids and lash lines. Ultimately, this beauty trend parallels fashion’s worldly-aware direction in considering how a nomadic lifestyle can influence the way you pull yourself together…feel your inner free spirit!
Exploring the construction and contours of a face isn’t a brand new idea in beauty (it’s one that’s been brewing for a few seasons now, culminating in SS2012’s love of skin in a laminate athletic gloss), yet for AW2012 the concept of sculpting continues in an increasingly cerebral direction. The beauty equivalent of the utilitarian and military vibe so omnipresent in fashion.
“Bone structure has moved on from last season’s hyper-highlighting into a consideration of how to add depth to a face with shadows.”– Terry Barber
“We’ve turned the light around this season – it’s now less about highlights and more about the depth of a contour. It creates a shaded face that is slightly hollow and haunted but extremely beautiful and not alien.”– Andrew Gallimore
In its purest form, this look is about a nude sculptural face as a canvas for a brow (straighter, stronger and more purposefully groomed, from which the other features seem to hang) – indeed, a brow is the axis of what makes these honed, nude looks contemporary. “It’s a highly technical form of beauty,” adds Terry Barber, of the myriad manners and devices (and products) employed to create it. From slightly paling down the skin (“it’s like working in negative, it automatically brings the shadows out,” explains Lyne Desnoyers), to very clever concealing, an array of Pro Sculpting Creams and skin-imitating Cream Colour Bases, this trend is absolutely about proper placement of a highlight and a contour. “To put in bone structure is a very knowing art form and the real mastery of being a makeup artist,” adds Terry.
While a black liquid liner can be inextricably linked with the past (a Twenties flapper, Forties feline, Fifties wings, Sixties flicks, Seventies punk, Eighties New Wave…), makeup artists this season have shrugged off the liners’ retro connotations and are considering the contemporary graphicism of a black line interpreted in an unconventional manner.
“This season isn’t about liner being classic; it’s about liner as an etching, about it creating a geometry on the face.” – Gordon Espinet
Beauty is very much in this detail, though. While these lines are fragmented in their structure, by respecting the architecture of the eye shape, they tailor and enhance the face. The key reference points: Oriental precision (indeed, fashion’s collective eye seems trained on the East) and equestrian elegance – refined, original and intriguing, the new updated liner is “all about a trick of the eye that is very artistic. It’s about taking a classic gesture and reworking it into something non-conformist,” says Andrew Gallimore.
Tommy Beauty Pro 